johnsmith14

You might try vinegar with a little alcohol, but i'm not sure of the intensity of the spots.

Just a few spots on the exterior. Does this spread over time if I'm not careful in removing all of it now?

Hi,

I've recently acquired a Canon P as part of a haul from a local garage sale. It has these interesting blue/green spots all around (I believe it is verdigris?)

Is there an easy way to safely remove this? Does verdigris spread over time?

Thanks in advance,

John

EMERGENCY: I need to clarify something about what I said about KEH!

 

I asked if the bargain lens I was interested could have haze or fungus, they DID NOT say it could have fungus!!! They merely said their records indicate that the lens I was interested in could have slight haze. I subconsciously assumed that other lenses "could" have fungus, therefore.

 

I'm really sorry for the confusion! That's what happens when your brain has been toasted by decades of untreated bipolar disorder.

I actually reached out to KEH and a sales rep said:

"For future reference, our Bargain grade does state there may be mark and blemishes (including fungus and or haze) so if you want clean glass then EX+ grades and above have clean glass."

Looks like there can be fungus or haze. I think the BGN guarantee is that the fungus/haze will be at a level that won't affect photos.

Will definitely keep this in consideration when buying from KEH's BGN selection.

Here are some more photos. I'm thinking it is fungus... the "hairs" look to be coming out of these botches along the sides.

It doesn't look like fungus to me. It might be separation.

 

By the way, I was interested in a KEH bargain lens, the description of which says "Glass may have marks or blemishes, but should not affect picture quality." I wrote them, and they said yes, it could include separation and fungus. So, no more KEH bargain lenses for me LOL.

Wow, did not know that. I've always bought BGN from them, and now I may look through a few more lenses...

Hi,

Still fairly new to film photography. Bought a Nikkor lens from KEH rated in BGN condition to find this hairy, white outline along the rim of an inner element. Could someone with experience view the image and tell me if it is fungus or separation?

Thanks,

John

Hi everyone,

I posted a while back asking for a rangefinder recommendation and landed on the FED-2. I just picked up a Jupiter-12 from an ebay seller for not too much, and it looks to be in fine shape, save for a few things: there seems to be some smudges/fingerprints on the rear element and a few tiny scratches. How should one go about cleaning this protruding rear element? Is using a blower + wiping with lens tissues okay? Also, how worried should I be about these scratches? They're hard to see, unless in bright light. I've heard that the protruding element is closer to the focal plane, so scratches there could really impact photos (unlike ones on the front element).

Thanks in advance!

There are two types of RF camera shooters -- those who have forgotten to remove the lens cap and those who are going to forget to remove the lens cap.

 

This is especially true of people coming from SLRs to RFs:rolleyes:

 

However, with some of the miracle products of the Soviet, you also have to remember to replace the lens cap before rewinding!!!!

 

[ATTACH=full]1368732[/ATTACH]

 

pa russki?

Wow! There is so much to remember. I did some reading and came up with this list of things to keep in mind when using my FED-2:

1.) Always wind camera before changing shutter speeds.

2.) Never go from top shutter speed to bottom shutter speed when changing shutter speeds (i.e. don't short cut from 1/500 to B) and vice versa. Turn the knob the "long way around".

3.) Keep the lens cap on when rewinding film.

Anything else I'm missing?

Always wind the camera before changing shutter speeds!

 

Other than that, which is a general rule for all cameras with a Leica style shutter, the FED-2 is about as straightforward as it gets, wind, set shutter and/or aperture, focus and frame, shoot.

 

You'll need some kind of light meter or follow the sunny-16 rule.

I'm gonna have to tape a sticky note on the back to remind myself of the "order of operations". No adjusting speeds until after winding!

You guys have convinced me to drop the Canon P (and, well, the price of Soviet rangefinders are just so cheap). I ordered a Fed-2 from Oleg!

Any advice for a newcomer to rangefinders, particularly Russian ones?

Thank you all for the replies. They have been very helpful!

I think I'm going to go with the Canon P, since I like how simple it is.

Does anyone know of any technicians who still service Canon P bodies? I called Youxin Ye, and he told me that he no longer services these cameras.

Of course there are always those perpetual thrillers, the transmogrified Zorkis -- this one is a "Swedish Army" (3 crowns on the back) Leica in gold and rosewood, with its Elmo lens :rolleyes:

[ATTACH=full]1367948[/ATTACH]

That's a looker for sure! ;)

Hi,

I picked up a Jupiter 8 lens from a garage sale for next to nothing, since it looks to be in mint condition. I've been reading online and wanted to gather some opinions on a viable rangefinder body to use with it. To my understanding, it is an M39 mount lens. I want a rangefinder body that is:

- Fully mechanical with no meter. I prefer clarity with Sunny 16.

- Reliable, and serviceable by a technician (Any recommendations welcomed!)

- Swing back door as this makes film loading easier.

- A film winding lever instead of one of those knobs I've seen.

I don't want to break my wallet and get a Leica, so that's off the table. I've heard that Russian rangefinder copies are unpredictable when it comes to quality/experience. Has anyone had any experience with Japanese copies of the Leicas? Maybe a Canon P or something like that?