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beepbopp

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Posts posted by beepbopp

  1. 2 minutes ago, AlanKlein said:

    Don't put desiccant containers with metal in the microwave.  Use an oven for three hours at 240F degrees to bring back to original state. 

    Coincidentally, I bought reusable silica packs today actually. I mean, the weather here isn’t insanely cold like Canada, north USA or the arctic but I just want to take precautions. And leaving it in the bag has helped I guess as that’s what I’ve always done. I think my primitive brain is looking for threats lol thanks for replying btw, most appreciated.

  2. 27 minutes ago, SCL said:

    The trick is to keep the camera in reasonably low humidity, as that is where fungus and mold love to proliferate. The zip lock bags in below freezing weather is basically to prevent condensation when moving from a cold environment to a more humid warm environment. Knowledgable people in the tropics, where high humidity can be a constant, often keep their most expensive camera gear in drying cabinets.

    I have a dehumidifier cabinet too. It also helps with dust etc. the room it’s in also has a dehumidifier and air purifier (I went all out lol). My temps are currently -4c for next few days but generally hover around 1-2c in winter here. But better to ask than not. 

  3. 40 minutes ago, chuck909 said:

    I do a fair amount of cold weather shooting down to a little colder than -30c and unless I am going into a known humid place, I just warm my camera under my coat before I go in.  Long ago I shot the NFC championship game in Minneapolis, Minnesota and it was COLD.  The cheerleaders were on skates - really.  After the game we went into the Ram's locker room for interviews.  I learned a big lesson.  Hot showers and cold cameras do not mix.  However, even though the cameras were useless at that time, they did recover with no problems.

    That said, coming in from the cold, I never use a camera until it has warmed up.

     

    Ouch! Glad it got back to normal. My weather is more 1c to 20c. But I ask about this because right now it’s at -4c for the next few days. 

  4. On 12/11/2022 at 6:34 PM, John Seaman said:

    I too live in the UK and yes, it is rather cold right now. I don't go out much doing photography in the cold these days. When doing so in the past I've never thought it necessary to put equipment in zip lock bags. That's just as likely to trap any moisture present on the camera. The danger might be that bringing it in from the cold into a warm place could attract condensation to the cold body and innards. In my opinion it's best to leave it in a cool dry place until it reaches room temperature.

    FYI - I took my camera in for a clean yesterday and I asked the question about bags etc. He said plastic/ziplock bags will do more harm than good and it’s best to just leave it in the backpack. He said if everyone had an issue in the cold his business would have been sold years ago. So, I guess it’s a very rare instant where this happens. Though, the analogy out my mind at ease.

    • Like 1
  5. 8 minutes ago, John Seaman said:

    I too live in the UK and yes, it is rather cold right now. I don't go out much doing photography in the cold these days. When doing so in the past I've never thought it necessary to put equipment in zip lock bags. That's just as likely to trap any moisture present on the camera. The danger might be that bringing it in from the cold into a warm place could attract condensation to the cold body and innards. In my opinion it's best to leave it in a cool dry place until it reaches room temperature.

    Thank you! Yes I agree the ziplock method just seemed odd to me. Maybe for other items, but for lenses and bodies it doesn’t sound healthy.

    My house is always warm unfortunately as my family like to crank up the heating. So I’ll have to think about a way around that. The only place I can think of is my office which hovers around 18-19c 😕
     

     

  6. 6 minutes ago, Sandy Vongries said:

    There have been many threads on the subject but the search function apparently isn't working well.  If you search Winter Camera Care online there is a great deal of good info from reliable sources.

    Thanks! Yes I saw some of them but it’s generally for really cold weather. Where I am, there is still water vapour in the air, not dry which is what most advice is for. And temperatures tend not to get lower than -4c. 

    Do you mind me asking what your protocol is for cold weather?

  7. Hello,

    As temperatures are dropping I have a question regarding camera use outside.

    I’ve been told that that putting a camera in a ziplock back can help protect it from use in the cold when returning indoors.

    1. I’m currently staying in the south of the UK where the weather gets to about 3c max daytime and about -4c at night. At that temperature there is still water vapour in the air. Should I still follow this method or am I causing additional problems? 

    2. Can I leave it in my camera bag instead?

    3. Do I need to do the same for camera lenses?

    4. If the ziplock method is the only way, how long should I leave it in there?

    Are there any other methods?

     

    thank you!

  8. It shows the display profile all color managed applications are using. In this case Photoshop. So do you see yours???

     

    Mine was set to sRGB, though I customized a profile using the presets in Apple's display. I've always worked in Adobe RGB. Or do you recommend Prophoto RGB? I know the colour space is vastly bigger in PPRGB. I mostly work from Lightroom.

  9. As long as there are lenses capable of utilising them, higher resolution sensors will always be more than just marketing hype. For example, Nikon's old 55mm f/3.5 Micro-Nikkor will out-resolve a 100 Megapixel sensor. As seen in this pixel-shifted (effectively 240 Mp) highly cropped image from an A7Riv.

    [ATTACH=full]1424509[/ATTACH]

    200 lppmm are fairly cleanly resolved, needing a pixel spacing of 2.5 microns. This translates to just over 138 Megapixels over a 24x36mm frame size. So, wasted resolution? Not at all provided the camera and subject stay rock steady.

     

    Already available on the A7Riv. You can choose between compressed or uncompressed RAW, with compressed RAW offering about a 2:1 compression ratio.

    Yes good point.

     

    Although, if you’re retouching skin the additional resolution can be a pain and it is still a little more for most jobs.

  10. This doesn't really address the point of the thread, but I ordered a Macbook Air M1 from Apple about a year ago, and returned it shortly after. The colors were rendered terribly, most reds showed as pink for eg, and despite a few calls to Apple support no suggested fix was available. I've had Macs since forever and this was the first fail.

     

    Oh no, that is awful, its frustrating when this happens. What are you using now?

     

    I am so far seeing an ok colour on a custom calibration, though I do not feel confident as calibration is not my forte. Though I will send to print tomorrow and see what the results are like. Using the colorimeter by xrite the screen becomes tinted slightly orange (same happened with Datacolor), but I've just seen a video by ArtisRight on youtube that says the correct matrix data is not available through the aforementioned calibration tools. Though both claim to have made them compatible with the new M1 system.

  11. What color profile pop up menu know as presets (screen capture please).

    You have Photoshop? Do you see the display profile listed in the RGB Working Space dropdown? DO NOT select it, but do you see it?

    You have the lastet version of i1P for M1?

    Apple Silicon M1 Macintosh Systems Profiling Issues. – X-Rite Photo & Video Support. ColorMunki, i1 Display Pro & ColorChecker Passport

     

    Hey, thanks for replying, no I do not see RGB workspace.

     

    I've installed the latest which I believe is 3.5.

     

    The screenshots can be found here -

    Screenshot-2022-04-23-at-17-56-57

    Screenshot-2022-04-23-at-17-57-08

     

    Datacolor I've been told does not have any issues in their updates.

  12. I'd be really interested in getting the Sony A7RV if it does indeed go with their 102 MP sensor from 2019. But the latest rumours suggest it may stick with its 61MP sensor that its used in the last 2 A7R cameras- the A7R IV and A7R IVA. I'd rethink getting the Fuji GFX 100S for the time being, if they do go with the larger sensor. It would be great for getting faster action shots that the Fuji doesn't do well in, and still retain the same rez.

     

    So what do you guys think Sony will do? I'd find it strange they'd put a third model out with the same 61MP sensor, and call it a day. Makes me wonder why Sony bothered designing the 102MP sensor, if they never end up using it.

     

    Also what resolution would that 102MP sensor be, if it was in APS-C crop mode? Would it beat 40MP?

     

    I think Sony has learned their lesson from the previous model. The high resolution is great, but if you’re going that high you might as well hire a HB. There are numerous ways to print 10 - 30 MP in a billboard format, so the additional resolution is largely a marketing sell (imo).

     

    Obviously they can’t go lower. So they would probably leave it as is, with the ability switch to lossless compression and/or allow for the provision of selecting lower resolutions.

  13. I got a new MacBook Pro, I tried to calibrate the monitor using my i1 profiler and the i1 pro plus. I’ve completed the calibration, I’ve saved the ICC profile but it is not available to select in the color profile pop up menu (now known as ‘presets’).

     

    Am I the only one to experience this or is there something I am missing?

     

    NB: I also have a new BenQ monitor on the way next week but no doubt the MBP will make this difficult too.

  14. CTT as shown above for one.And one is actually measured by an instrument.

     

     

    Gotcha, Spyder does not really allow me to change that spectrum, so, it all lies down to a better monitor and calibration software. I am now seeing a lot of complaints regarding the spyder software so it might be time to get a new piece of kit and quite possibly a new monitor.

     

    Thank you for your time, I have subscribed to your channel. It's an extremely helpful tool and has inspired me to look more into the subject.

     

    I have a couple more questions I hope you don't mind answering? I generally launch images in Adobe 98, but is it better to use Pro photo RGB? I remember a while back I was told not to meddle in it, though I have since seen many using it.

     

    Secondly, is there a way to calibrate my camera to the monitor calibration or is the traditional passport style calibration the best method?

  15. Your instincts are correct; ignore the bit about the built-in profile.

    Print and calibrate to match? Yes:

     

    Why are my prints too dark (or don’t match my display)?

    A video update to a written piece on subject from 2013

    In this 24 minute video, I'll cover:

     

    Are your prints really too dark?

    Display calibration and WYSIWYG

    Proper print viewing conditions

    Trouble shooting to get a match

    Avoiding kludges that don't solve the problem

     

    High resolution: http://digitaldog.net/files/Why_are_my_prints_too_dark.mp4

    Low resolution:

     

    Great video and it helped me realise a lot more. Essentially, out the box PC monitors are cooler, so a properly calibrated monitor will appear much warmer. That's probably where I am seeing the difference.

     

    One last thing that baffles me, why is Apple's 6500K much cooler than the one my Spyder offers? In fact, their 5500K is more identical to my finished Spyder 6500K calibration.

  16. Your instincts are correct; ignore the bit about the built-in profile.

    Print and calibrate to match? Yes:

     

    Why are my prints too dark (or don’t match my display)?

    A video update to a written piece on subject from 2013

    In this 24 minute video, I'll cover:

     

    Are your prints really too dark?

    Display calibration and WYSIWYG

    Proper print viewing conditions

    Trouble shooting to get a match

    Avoiding kludges that don't solve the problem

     

    High resolution: http://digitaldog.net/files/Why_are_my_prints_too_dark.mp4

    Low resolution:

     

    Great! I will get to watch this and see how my prints turn out. Have sent some off for this task. Thanks for your time.

  17. No issues on this end although I'm using a far superior product and colorimeter. Could be a bug in their software, I'd contact them.

    Keep in mind, 6500K is a significant range of possible colors. Two different software products can be asked to provide CCT 6500K and produce very different visual results as explained below (what CCT is). D65 is an exact, defined color target (although, there's only one source of D65; it's 93 million miles from your display).

    Anyway, you can alter the CCT value to get an appearance you desire OR if the color appearance really did change since Big Sur, contact DataColor and tell them they likely have a bug.

     

    http://digitaldog.net/files/LinesOfCCT.jpg

    ANY color running between e and f above is 6500K.

     

     

    Thanks for your reply. I've been told to do two things by a friend (not sure if what they're saying is accurate though) - use the built-in Mac profile or print a photo and match it with that. Both don't sound right to me.

     

    I can't see the document/light you provided, unfortunately.

     

    What product are you using? I'd be interested to know. Thanks for your help!

  18. Hi,

     

    I am using Spyder 5 elite to calibrate my monitor with the white point set at 6500K. Yet the whites seem to be more orange than anything. I noticed this immediately after updating to Big Sur.

     

    I compared it by using Apple's built-in calibration utility and there is a clear difference between their version of 6500K and Spyder's. Is there something I am missing or is this all in my head?

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