markriemann

Mark, thanks for the clarification. Sturdy support, lotsa bellows and quite a long f/9 process lens. Relevant magic formula: front node (approximately at the diaphragm)-to-subject distance = focal length * (magnification + 1)/magnification.

 

Re f/9 and difficulty of manual focus, I have a heap of f/9 and slower lenses, manage to focus all of them.

Through glass - add some kind of bellows, or a rubber lens hood between the front of the lens and the glass, helps to kill reflections. Also, try to shoot square to the glass if you can.

The current lens I have are Canon 75-300mm zoom and Canon Kit len 18-55mm.

It looks like I need to find the right combo of bellows and len.

My subject is coral and there are several that are extremely small, couple mm in size, that I would like to capture all of the details. The coral is spread throughout a glass aquarium that is 3ft x 3ft x 28inch. There isn't enough space in the tank to try to take shots from within the tank. I won't be able to move the coral around, since they are attached the live rock structures within the tank.

The nice thing about this subject is that, it doesn't move much and I can stop the flow in the tank during shots, so ss can be low. Also, I can adjust the high power lights above the tank to adjust the lighting.

They might still be a bit short for your 36" use case?

While you are pondering things: Make up your mind, if you might like to use a monorail view camera, as part of your rig. Graflock-EF adapters are about $200. you'll most likely need rail extension a center column and two bellows but it could be nice to have movements for framing and no-DOF-management. Sad news: You'll most likely want one of the more xpensive ones to perform the precision movements demanded by your tiny sensor.

 

the magnification you desire leads to an extreme camera rig. I suppose with the process lens you'll need two tripods to hold your monorail. Setting such up is so slow that you should probably better kill your subject anyhow instead of staying at a distance that doesn't trigger instincts to flee.

Yeah I was content plating monorail needed as well. I'm thinking of getting a second tripod, better one than I'm currently using.

"Yeah I don't have that type of money to drop on the Laowa, I seen it. It looks like it would work. Just can't drop that type of money at the moment. Thanks. "

 

Mmm the Venus Optics Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro APO is a US $ 150,-- CHEAPER than the IRIX 150mm f/2.8 Macro 1:1 at B&H and you do not have the Teleconverter yet which will add another US $ 400,- - at least so the Loawa would be the much cheaper option, and does not give the hassle nor the extra lengthand weight of the Irix solution,.....

 

If you need more magnification you can also check the Mitacon 85mm 1-5x magnification (check it out on Youtube ...)

 

Mitakon Zhongyi Creator 85mm f/2.8 1-5x Super Macro Lens for Nikon F

 

Venus Optics Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro APO Lens for Nikon F

 

IRIX 150mm f/2.8 Macro 1:1 Lens for Nikon F

Sorry c.p.m, i missed read the lens. I thought you were asking about Laowa 24mm f/14 2X Macro Probe $1,500. I will take a look at these options thanks.

I have a tripod that I will be using for the shots, I don't plan on holding the camera. I will also be taking the shots remotely from my phone, so I'm not touching the camera.

You can also check the Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2X Ultra-Macro APO for Canon EF-mount .., but be aware : 2x magnification is virtually impossible to handhold , even more so on a DX camera ( virtual 3x magnification..) , you will always need a very sturdy vibration resistand tripod which in itself add's to the cost ...

 

Alternatively stick with 1:1 magnification and enlarge in post .....

Yeah I don't have that type of money to drop on the Laowa, I seen it. It looks like it would work. Just can't drop that type of money at the moment. Thanks.

If you can live with manual nearly everything -- pardon my ignorance, I'm not sure what is possible with a T6 -- a decent process lens on bellows will do very well for you. A symmetrical lens is preferable, doesn't have to be reversed for working above 1:1.

 

I've used 150/9 Apo Ronar and 210/9 Konica Hexanon GR II this way on Nikons (fully manual film cameras, not digital) but at 3:1 their front element-to-subject distances are shorter than you need. Consider 240/9 Apo-Ronar, 260/9 GR II, 300/9 Apo-Ronar or 305/9 Apo-Nikkor.

 

c.p.m. is right about how hard it is to be steady enough shooting handheld, even at 1:1. My preferred solution is flash illumination. When ambient light is bright this requires low ISO or an ND filter.

I will take a look at 240/9 Apo-Ronar, 260/9 GR II, 300/9 Apo-Ronar or 305/9 Apo-Nikkor. Thanks.

In theory you might be right about the teleconverters. On the other hand: You have a high resolution sensor in your camera. Nobody knows if the lens renders enough pixels to feed it (as is). Any teleconverter is a in itself "fishy" optical system, splitting the not enough resolution of a lens further, to spread it over more megapixels than previously.

Odds that using a teleconverter won't pay off, are high.

I don't know if you tried macro shots before; I totally agree with @c.p.m._van_het_kaar above. To me getting a handheld 1:1 shot shivered into focus is already too hard and yes I use flash and stop down like crazy.

• Consult some DOF calculator, before you buy anything.
  
• Read up on focus stacking (if your subject is suitable for such).
  

I'm no math wizard but supposing you'll need a reversed 24" lens, to shoot something in 36" distance at 2x magnification and "quite a bit of bellows" to mount that to your camera. (concentric tubes could serve as a bellows substitute. While process lenses of suitable focal length surely exist they might not be sharp enough and pretty dim too. No fun in operating such gear.

Yeah It sounds like in practicality TC will not do what I'm wanting it to do. I will do some more research on reverse lens and see if I can't get anything close to what I'm looking for. Thanks.

Thanks for the input all.

I have Canon Rebel T6.

I'm looking for a "cheap" setup that will allow me to do Super Macro shots, 2x or higher, with a relatively large MFD, at least 1 ft.

I have read that teleconvertor (TC) don't impact minimum focus distance. "TC do not affect optical characteristics of the lenses - they only magnify the center portion of the frame photographylife"; whereas, extension tube does shorten the MFD.

I was looking at the Irix 150mm Macro (1:1 w/ MFD 1.1ft) len and a teleconvertor (2x or 3x).

My end goal is to be able to be able to get 2x+ on an 1/4" objects that would be 12" to 36" away. I won't be able to get closer.

I was thinking this will accomplish what I want in the cheapest manner.

But wanted to see what other more experience photographers thought?

is there a better setup that is cheap?

better len?

particular TC?

some other hardware that could be useful?