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expired35

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  1. I recently purchased this Yashica T3 camera in almost mint condition for more or less current market value. The previous and only owner said they literally only used it once. I popped in a roll, began to shoot, but after about 5 frames with perfect operation, I noticed that the after the 6th shot, one of the camera aperture blades seems to have gotten stuck. I tried to shake the camera while pressing the shutter in order to see if I could get the blade to be released but it has not worked. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this without a crazy complex disassembly (the shutter assembly seems very difficult to get to - A repair manual can be downloaded here: MEGA)?
  2. Hi Mike, thanks for your answer. I am trying to find options besides returning it but I might not have any others.
  3. Just picked up a Minolta XK, I really like the quality but I am running into issues. If you have any tips to fix, that would be awesome. Here are the problems: 1. AE Finder needle always reads maximum exposure (1/2000) when turned on. Light blinks once when turning on so connection between camera and finder is providing power. I cleaned the contacts but it did not change the needle always jumping up to 1/2000. I removed the finder and the aperture ring follower will not click into place aligning the red dots but I can use a toothpick to keep it aligned while placing the finder back on the body so that the aperature ring notch is being read (maybe this is part of the problem but I doubt it). 2. Mirror sticks at and below 1/60 when set to ISO 100 and all other equivalent combinations. Shutter does not stick at higher values (such as 1/125 and ISO 100). I hope I can fix these myself but if you know any repair shops, especially if they are in NYC, that would be great.
  4. Thanks MTC I just spoke to Don at Dag Camera Parts: Featured Products He said that the white plastic "Feder in German, Spring in English" is meant to create some friction between the lens elements. He said it is not needed for operation but without it, there is slightly more play in the system. He said that replacing it correctly and using a collimator to refocus is a simple task and would only cost about $25 + shipping. I am going to try to replace the small screws and potentially replace the Feder. I will then shoot 1 cheap roll and if the photos come back blurry I will send it in to Don.
  5. And MTC, I don't think I will use a shop but it would be good to know what shop you used. I simply don't think I will be able to afford a shop.
  6. Hi Dave, Thank you for suggesting those resources. I tried to watch a few Japanese videos on youtube but the ones I found did not take apart the lens from the front. Just by chance I had picked up a copy of Thomas Tomosy's first book only a few days before, so I was able to read that section. It mainly scared me more but I don't think it is all directly relevant. Most specifically he does briefly discuss disassembly from the front Anyway, I believe that I figured out how to assemble the small black screws. It is a devious and complex procedure where one must rotate the focusing scale ring, 211, which cannot be disassemble from 213, and use the holes for the large screws to insert the small screws. I would say that it is an elegant design but not simple to understand. Sadly, I am still stuck with not knowing what to do with the white plastic piece. Does anyone know what its function is or how to assemble it? A German friend translated it as "spring". It does have a slight bend and two small chamfers on two of its corners but I cannot understand its purpose. It seems to live somewhere inbetween 211 and 213.
  7. Here are some additional details that I realized after looking at the repair diagram: I believe the two small screws that fell out are 217 The brass cylinder is probably 222 The white plastic piece might be 212 Current problems: 1. The main pieces of the aperture assembly (besides the lens itself) seem to be 210, 213, and 219. All three pieces are currently together as can be seen in the second photo (photo without labels). I need to get both 217 screws in between 213 and 219 but I cannot do that because 213 and 219 seem to be attached. Once I can separate 213 and 219, how to get them back together? 2. Not sure what to do about 212?
  8. Hi Everyone, I am sadly in the depths of repair hell so any help would be great. I have no experience with camera repair beyond being a mechanical engineer and mechanism designer. Thus I thought I would be able to tackle this challenge. However I am very stuck. Background: I bought a Minox 35 ML in great condition but the aperture ring would not turn past 4 to get to the other numbers up to 16. I was only able to spin it from P to somewhere between 2.8 and 4. I found a posting on here from 2003 that made it seem very simple, essentially just loosen 3 screws and tighten a few others. How to repair defective aperture on Minox 35 MB? When I loosened the 3 screws, I then removed what I believe is the focus ring and then the next 3 screws (two are large black screws and one is a set screw that is brass) all seemed very tight. At this point I realized that I could hear various things shaking around as if there were loose screws in the aperture ring assembly. I loosened all 3 screws and was able to lift the aperture ring assembly off the rest of the camera. This is where it gets bad. 4 things immediately fell out of the aperture assembly, 1 white plastic piece, 2 tiny black screws and 1 tiny brass cylinder. I don't know where they came from except that they came from the aperture ring assembly. I want to put everything back together but I don't know how :( I was using the original German repair manual for a diagram but even for me it is too complex to understand. I have uploaded a photo of the relevant diagram but you can download the pdf here: https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Minox-35ML-Repair-Manual.pdf Please help. If you need more photo or details please let me know.
  9. Even more research and I found a guide for disassembly of the f/4. Yay! Disassembly from the rear and front is covered, I think from the front applies more to my issues: Repair: Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm f4 Ai-S
  10. I did a bit more research and found a guide to disassembly of the similar f/4.5, however this individual went about the disassembly by not simply removing the front lens element with a spanner but goes through a more involved process of removing other parts first which may be required. Does anyone know if going through this whole process is required to get to the inner elements (instead of just using a spanner on the front lens element)? 80-200mm f/4.5 Zoom-Nikkor.C Disassembly and Cleaning I also found a cross section of the f/4 from MF Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm Lenses Part 3/4 which is here:
  11. Thanks for those responses. Ok, we now know it is not fungus. Glen, the problem is that this is on the outer surface of the interior lens, so I need to take the lens apart in order to clean it. I cannot find an optical diagram of the 80-200 f/4 but here is another Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 that is obviously much more complex optically than the older 80-200 f/4. So just to be clear, this diagram is not of the lens that I have but I am using it to show the general location of the unknown substance on the lens (see attached file: Lens 2). Thus I believe I need some type of special spanner wrench to remove the front lens elements so that I can get to the inner lens elements. Here is something that I think would work but please let me know if you would recommend something else. Does anybody have experience taking apart this lens or similar beyond what thirteen thumbs said above? https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Professional-Tips10-100mm-Hexagon-Olympus/dp/B00QRPWCN0/ref=pd_cp_421_1?pd_rd_w=GODB5&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=4G95Y6GMRD0DPPMMK7WP&pd_rd_r=b2d32ebf-4f36-44e3-9e80-23d48dde8848&pd_rd_wg=xoiG6&pd_rd_i=B00QRPWCN0&psc=1&refRID=4G95Y6GMRD0DPPMMK7WP Joe, thanks for the info. I have seen the sealed alcohol impregnated pre-soaked lens tissues but any that you would recommend? Also any dry lens tissues that you would recommend? When do you use a lenpen/filterpen? Thanks
  12. Hi everyone, first posting here. I realized this is an old thread but I think it is the same topic I am dealing with. Just picked up a Nikon 80-200 f/4 for a great price but when it arrived I noticed something on one of the inner lens elements. I don't know what this is or how to fix it. Maybe it is fungus, maybe it is dried oil, I have limited experience so I really don't know. I was able to snap a good image of whatever is on the lens. The posting by thirteenthumbs about how to take this lens apart is helpful but any further comments about how I can fix this by cleaning the inner lens element would be great (or any other way to fix whatever this is). Here is an image of the inner lens element with the unknown substance on it (also attached) : Lens
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