panamawise

...you'll have no trouble clearing the mirror with a gel. I made some rear mounted filters for a Mamiya RB fisheye (the only one i had was UV). These were from optical glass - removed from their filter mounts and then refitted to a stepping ring. (I couldn't get the filter in the correct size for the rear element)You might try making a circular card mount for a gel that will fit tightly into your rear lens group shield. You just don't want tape coming off and getting into shutter or mirror.

That's an intriguing suggestion, but my quest was limited in scope: I wanted to protect the front glass (UV) and fit - occasionally - a red filter. I was able to do so within a reasonable budget, but the "shade" allows you to use only one filter at a time. It's a bit cumbersome, but it works.

...could you try taping a thin gel filter over the rear element??

Hi Neil, this sounds like a great idea. I haven't tried it, but this is what I wrote earlier on within this thread:

 

>>> Another interesting suggestion I got from friendly eBay seller HASSYWEST:

Another option is to cut a gelatin(kodak wratten)filter and tape it over the rear element. That's an old school studio trick. <<<

The top rings DO separate! Surprise, surprise.

 

Congratulations on your acquisition. Happy shooting.

 

The FLE ring has less effect if you shoot close with the far setting than vice versa. Some people tape it in place. In either case, only the edges are affected.

Ha, ha... I've got to admit that I wouldn't have guessed the "shade" could be disassembled! Thanks again!

Well, I've reached the end of my quest. Luckily the 40mm I bought already came equipped with the curiously named 93/40 (40693) "shade" (must be Swedish humor), so I didn't have to purchase one. Thanks to this forum, I discovered that it's made of two parts, which is not immediately obvious. And now I've gotten my two filters (UV and Red) I understand why they are expensive (they are really large!) and how they actually "drop" in between the two slim rings which is not fantastically practical but works. I observe those filters are not threaded. I can only use one filter at a time, of course. You can easily purchase one red filter for about $200 if you don't mind about the description ("very badly scratched") but that's what I ended up paying for my two filters (from two sellers in Japan: one excellent while the other (red one) never bothered to reply to my inquiries. His description was rather fanciful: Hasselblad Ø 93/40 Lens Filter Holder Ring w. red Filter BandW 090 5 x MC | eBay

As I correctly guessed, he was actually selling the drop in red filter I wanted (in mint condition, as well as the UV) plus one half of the "shade". I did a lot of exploring on eBay and had a hard time getting the sellers to explain if their filters were threaded or not. (I understand the "shade" would have accepted 93 mm threaded filters). OK, so it's a happy ending. Thanks for your help.

If you cool with condensation without reheating, the relative humidity will be maintained close to 100%. If the surrounding room temperature is high enough, you may not need additional heating. However if you actually get condensation in a cooling element, ambient heat leakage is probably not enough. You get about 20 deg F cooling from a simple thermopile in dry air. If there is condensation, the temperature drop will be much less, due to the heat of condensation.

 

I don't think anything in the equipment would be affected by low humidity, but high temperature will affect the life of lubricants and possibly the anti-reflective coating inside lenses and the Hasselblad.

Thank you again, Ed. I'm afraid I'm stuck at ambient temperature (30 C) since my cabinet only works controlling humidity. I am checking with an independent sensor and it's doing a good job. I've set the humidity at 45%.

Thank you again Ed for clarifying the difference between Dew Point and Relative Humidity, thank you Gary for sharing your personal experience, and thank you Bill for taking the trouble of checking out the cabinet specs. I won't worry about the temperature (life in the Tropics) and focus on the ideal relative humidity setting. I suspect that by maintaining the Zeiss lenses below 50% I should be able to prevent fungus. Since I also keep my 503 CW Hasselblad body in the cabinet, I wonder if there's a risk of going too low, thus affecting lubrication for example.

Thank you Ed, the cabinet instructions indicate 40%-50% for optical equipment. Extreme desiccation might be a problem for the camera itself which must stay correctly lubricated. As for the temperature, this cabinet does not control it, so it's rather uniform albeit rather high (around 30 C = 86 F). You're right, keeping it refrigerated could very likely be counterproductive. Right now, I set the cabinet at 45% for the time being.

Hi, I just got a FORSPARK 50L dry cabinet to store my Hasselblad 503CW and four lenses, and I'd like to hear about your suggestions. I would think something within 35% and 45% should be good, but I don't want to make a costly mistake. Depending on your geographic location, feel free to mock me, reminding me that Zeiss glass should be used, not stored... In the Republic of Panama, where I live, humidity rarely falls under 80% (and the annual average is 86%). My Nikon lenses once started to grow fungus, I sent them to Nikon USA, but two years later, the issue recurred.

The long wait is over and I've finally received my 40mm Distagon... A superb piece, in pristine condition. The top glass is rather large and exposed, so I've ordered a "haze" (UV) filter for protection. Now I'm holding the lens in my hands, I understand what is referred to as "petals". The 93/40 "shade" opened easily. I have actually ordered two "drop-in" filters (UV 51411) & (RED 51403). I love the Richard Nordin Compendium, which is an indispensable source! With eBay, it's always a gamble, but I tried to hedge my bets as well as possible. I bought the (allegedly near mint) UV at the sweet price of $90 (free shipping) and the red one at $143 (including shipping) I could easily have paid double that... there's a few available from England over $235 and one of them is attractively described as "very badly scratched". Since my lens was already provided with the shade (which is expensive) I "only" spent $233 on filters... (hey, those filters are huge!). I didn't want to go over $300. Other alternative I explored was from LEE filters. After discussing the possibility of vignetting, this is what John Adler wrote:

"I have to apologize. It's been a long time since I've answered a question about this lens, and I remembered incorrectly. The ring I recommended will vignette.

You can get an 86mm ring, which vignettes just a little:

LEE Filters86mm Adapter Ring for Foundation Kit

To use this you unscrew the outer ring.

Another option is to use a special filter holder we make:

LEE Filters100mm Push-On Filter Holder

You'll get no vignetting with this holder. It doesn't attach with an adapter ring. Instead, it has a built-in collar that tightens down around the front filter holder on your lens".

Another interesting suggestion I got from friendly eBay seller HASSYWEST:

Another option is to cut a gelatin(kodak wratten)filter and tape it over the rear element. That's an old school studio trick.

Thank you again, Tom and Ed. Here are some quick photos of my lens:

 

I thought it was more a "lost in translation" language thing, you'll have to forgive my sarcastic humor (which does not translate well online).

 

Dear Tom, I am occasionally prone to "lost in translation" issues, being born in Switzerland, raised in France, Italy and West Africa and systematically uprooted. I'm still struggling to master English, while living in a Spanish-speaking culture - where sarcastic humor is viewed with suspicion. You were right to chastise my comment, although no disrespect was intended. (I realize I acted not unlike a shipwrecked sailor who sends a message in a bottle and, three days later, wonders why there are no rescue ship lining up on the horizon!). Thank you so much for taking the time to illustrate the matter I'm dealing with. It would appear that my (incoming) lens is fitted with a 93/40 shade, which the Compendium describes as having been made exclusively for the 40mm CF. It would appear the 93/50 is very similar and was supplied with the F and FE 50 mm lenses. I'm ready to bet they work the same way, possibly with a drop-in filter sandwiched somewhere in between. I hope I manage to disassemble my shade!

Thank you again Ed, that's an interesting photo - showing a petal-like structure I hadn't seen previously. I read that most people were not aware the shade could be disassembled and many were unable to do so. I hope I manage to do it and will keep you posted.

The removable sunshade is threaded internally to accept a 93 mm filter. You do not have to remove it to attach the compendium shade adapter, nor presumably a threaded filter..

 

There is a groove in the sunshade which suggests the outermost ring can be removed. If so, it is thoroughly stuck together on my lens. I suspect the groove is decorative.

 

The objective protrudes when the sunshade is removed, protected only by four lugs machined into the retaining ring. This of course obviates the ability to use a drop-in filter at this position.

Thank you again Ed, I suspect I'll get a better understanding when I finally receive the lens and the intriguing "shade" (There is no postal service in my country of residence, so I need to be patient). I have been exploring a few avenues and I'll post the final results. Your kind assistance is well appreciated.

No, we are pretty stupid here. Insulting the group is not the best way to get answers. There are not that many people with the CF40mm, and they may not check the forums every day (or much at all).

 

Point taken. Please forgive this brief moment of impatience. I regretted this remark as soon as I posted it but couldn't find a way to edit it. While photography has long been my passion, I am new to medium format and, obviously to this impressive forum.it should have occurred to me that there are comparatively few CF40mm owners.

A 93 mm filter is going to be very expensive. I always assumed you screw in a 93 mm filter inside the front ring. The extension (sunshade) unscrews, but I never though a filter might fit under it.

 

A relatively inexpensive solution would be a 100 mm square resin filter with a short, 93 mm holder and (possibly) a short hood. I have a Hasselblad Compendium hood, with a 93 mm adapter for use with a CF40. The hood accepts square gelatin filters with a built-in frame. The hood itself is then set to 40 mm (almost flat), or 60 mm for use with a CFV16 digital back.

 

I don't use protective filters with Hasselblad lenses. I prefer to avoid crowds, sandy beaches, licking dogs and children who explore with their sticky fingers. The hood is deep enough to give adequate protection.

Thank you Ed! I get your point... although I'm using UV filters on my three other CF lenses (grandkids!). My 40mm CF is still in the mail and until I get it I won't understand how its accompanying 93/40 (40693) lens "shade" works. At this stage in my research, I would assume that I could purchase a red (51403) drop-in filter and that I could insert it inside the shade. However it seems that some or those filters are drop-in while some are threaded, so I'm still confused

Hmmm... I see you guys are very busy, or not as knowledgeable as I initially thought. Can anyone tell me if I could use TWO filters at the same time on the 93/40 (40693) lens shade? I would like to use a Hasselblad 93 drop in UV filter permanently, AND add a threaded B+H 93mm red filter. Thanks in advance!

I really wish I could count with your help. I keep searching but I seem to have hit a dead end. There's a seller referred by Amazon who offers a Bokkeh 93-95mm filter adapter for Hasselblad B93 lens. I almost bought it, until I read the disclaimer: **NOT Suitable for 40mm, because of Vignette** I'm stumped... all I really want to do is to fit a red filter (occasionally) on my 40mm. HELP!

Hello, I have purchased a used 40mm CF lens (in the mail). So far, I've discovered that the outer ring marked 93/40 (40693) is called a lens "shade" and that it can be split in two sections (I wouldn't have guessed). Apparently it is used only with "drop in" filters. (Good luck with finding 93mm unthreaded filters!) I'd like to use a dark red filter - and possibly a UV for protection. A suggestion I found (referenced by carlo_d) would be to use a 93mm to 95mm step up adapter ring, allowing to use (relatively) more common 95mm threaded filters. I'm having a hard time finding one... and 95mm filters are pricey. I'd love to read your recommendations. Thanks in advance. Chris (Republic of Panama).

Stupid question: what if I simply get rid of the (apparently) useless 40693 lens shade, and simply replace it with a 86-95mm step up adapter ring (assuming the thread on the lens is 86mm once you remove the "shade"?

Hello, I have purchased a used 40mm CF lens (in the mail). So far, I've discovered that the outer ring marked 93/40 (40693) is called a lens "shade" and that it can be split in two sections (I wouldn't have guessed). Apparently it is used only with "drop in" filters. (Good luck with finding 93mm unthreaded filters!) I'd like to use a dark red filter - and possibly a UV for protection. A suggestion I found (referenced by carlo_d) would be to use a 93mm to 95mm step up adapter ring, allowing to use (relatively) more common 95mm threaded filters. I'm having a hard time finding one... and 95mm filters are pricey. I'd love to read your recommendations. Thanks in advance. Chris (Republic of Panama).

VERY useful information Richard and Carlo, I have EXACTLY the same concern, having purchased (used) a very nice 40mm Distagon CF FLE for my Hasselblad. I didn't know what to think about the lens shade 93/40 (you call that a shade?). All I need is a "sacrificial" UV and also a red filter. Thank you. I'm new to this forum and already amazed.

Dear friends, I wish to thank you all for your valuable input. End of story... I'm getting a L-858 D-U, brand new at $599 (3 year warranty). It's probably too much for an old-timer who wants to go back to the darkroom (at least developing the negatives, then scan them, since in the Tropics it's not practical for me to do the full process, even though I still own a Durst). I was tempted to get the discontinued L758, which would be sufficient for my limited use, but I might be purchasing someone else's problem, with no warranty, just to save $200. Anyway, that's my passion... in real life, I am a real estate broker in the Republic of Panama, and I mostly take apartment photos with a digital Nikon! Thanks again and have a splendid weekend! Chris Frochaux

Like Ed Ingold, I also have a Sekonic L-508, which is extremely accurate.

 

That stated, I would consider either a Pentax Digital Spot, or perhaps a Soligor Digital Spot. I have both, and they're as accurate as I can find. Both have been converted to Zone VI meters, and they measure within a hair's breadth of each other. I can average EV's easily, or rely on a 1 degree spot.

 

While the Pentaxes are going for $300 and up, you can get a Soligor Digital Spot for well under that. You can also find a good Minolta Spotmeter F for around $200. I also have one of them, and it's testing extremely close to the Pentax and Soligor models.

Thank you Dennis for your input!

I purchased a Sekonic L-508 nearly twenty years ago, which has all the features. you mentioned - spot, incident and flash. I have never regretted this decision. The Sekonic does everything lightwise for an Hasselblad which does none on its own*. The comparable model is now the L-858D. It makes setting up multiple flash units easy, including lighting ratios for portraits, and profiling broad illumination for large groups. I use mine with a PocketWizard transmitter for remote flash units. Up to 200' in an electronically noisy environment (e.g., downtown Chicago) poses no problems. Some Sekonic meters have PocketWizard technology embedded, or available as a self-installed chip.

 

SekonicSpeedmaster L-858D-U Light Meter

 

Sekonic seems to have settled on a 1 deg spot meter. Mine is adjustable, but I have used only the 1 deg setting after the first week or so of experimentation. Spot metering is useful for landscapes, where the subject is often under different light than the photographer. Incident metering is the best choice for high-contrast situations (e.g., closeups of flowers), and formal wedding groups (e.g., mix of black, white and colors).

 

* I have a 205TCC with built-in flash metering. It requires a special flash or module (e.g., Quantum) to work. In practice, flash units with an automatic sensor do a better, more consistent job of flash control.

Thank you Ed, I've got my eyes set on the L-858D-U although it's a bit pricey. I have a Sekonic L398-A Studio III (no battery) but under low light conditions, the needle barely moves. I was wondering if the Lite Master Pro L-478D-U would work for me as well as the L-858D-U (less expensive).

Hello. I'm going back to analog black and white with a Hasselblad 503 CW. I would like to hear your recommendations about purchasing a Sekonic light meter. It should be capable to do incident for portraits, but also spot for landscapes and architecture. Flash also, for future usage. Thank you in advance. Chris (Republic of Panama).