ralf11womba

And the outdoor shots not affected also have more depth of field, suggesting a small aperture and therefore a slower shutter speed.

 

This is what I think too.

 

BTW, you have one of Nikon's most famed lenses. Tape the aperture locked to f/1.2 and use it that way for its marvelous rendering. They will have to "pry mine out of my cold dead fingers"...

Yes, mea culpa. I thought it would be best to keep screen posts in one thread; camera lockup info in the other...

 

I hear you re the big screen and the lack of other advantages. I recently sold most of my Nikon gear and moved to m43 for most work.

 

The Hassy is just fun to use, much as an old Porsche 911 is fun to shift. I bought an 80mm CF lens for it (KEH BGN rated, $517, in shipment) and missed out on an Acute Matte 42165 screen but am still looking.

Thanks. I know what to look for now, and how to vet.

 

BTW, I already see a misrepresented blac cross screen and an empty box for $5 starting bid...

 

I am familiar with old Porsches and people will often create equal or better parts for factory parts that are NLA -- seems no one has done this for these quality screens.

Thank you. The question I asked was not covered in the body/back repair thread. I understand re the black lines, and box mismatches. I assumed it would be best to revivify this more specific thread.

 

My question is whether the faint lines on a non-D Acute Matte plain cross screen should be easily seen in a typical for sale type photo.

 

From the "not so easily identified" text and sentence following, I infer the answer is no.

<p>In reply to Ingemar's response above:</p>

<p>I would also add that you need to be careful not to buy an old used standard screen being sold as the used Acute Matte screen whether the "D" version or the non-D version.</p>

...

<p>The older acute matte screens will have faint white crosshairs or they will be a split image with grid lines. That's it. They only made two types of original acute matte screens and those are it. I see on eBay daily where sellers ( who do not know the gear ) sell the old screens and call them "acute matte" screens simply because they have a box that says acute matte on it. The acute matte got put into the camera and the old screen got put into the box and now they are selling it as an acute matte because they have no idea what the difference is.</p>

<p>So it is definitely "buyer beware" when buying a Hasselblad screen on the used market.</p>

<p>If you see a screen that has dark black crosshairs then you can know it is the old original standard screen. A good enough screen for sure...but the acute mattes sell for significantly more money usually.</p>

 

 

I see a lot of screens for sale where I cannot see "faint white crosshairs" in the posted pic of the screen - they say they are Acute Matte screens. No dark lines, it just looks like an unmarked screen.

 

Should I be able to see the faint lines in a typical for sale photo? Or is buying one just a waste of time and postage to return it?

 

Thanks.

Thanks - I am not sure what I can do about the interlocks...

 

Hassy is not very on the ball about responding to the Email on this mis-repair...

Thx - I sent in the complete camera (lens, body, and magazine), so it seems inexcusable to me. I'll Email them and see what they say.

 

I only have the single film magazine.

Well, now that I paid Hasselblad to repair everything, I find the back will not lock to the body. I am moving the button in the approved dance but no luck. (Also, wound, matching body shutter (both white dots) & dark slide, yada yada)...

 

They also messed up the leatherette covering on the back above the crank.

 

Really unhappy with Hasselblad.

 

Any ideas on how to get the film magazine to latch? The video I found was no help, nor is the manual.

Where is a reliable place to buy lenses?

 

Are there any trustworthy sellers on ebay nowadays?

Thanks much. The only one I see readily available is the #42165 - which is $222. Any info on that one?

 

Also, how can I be sure a screen I buy is not a counterfeit? (I know about the D shaped holes in the Acute Matte type D; but what about the regular Acute Matte screens?)

I have finally gotten Hassy to communicate with me, and they tell me my cm has a non-Acute Matte screen, the “focusing screen with central grid” product #42234.

 

I am now wondering if I should get an Acute Matte screen for it.

 

I will sell the 5.6 lens and buy something faster.

Are there digital backs to fit the 500 cm?

 

If so, are they prohibitively expensive, or...??

I don't know. I found a "mint" A12 on ebay. Later in the description they say it was lightly used:

 

Hasselblad A12 Film Back - with box - MINT | eBay

 

But wouldn't the lubricant be dried out whether it was new in box or not?

Okay, they explained their coded quote...

 

$300 for the body

$300 for the lens

$150 for the A12 magazine

 

I will get the 500cm body fixed, but not the lens. I am unsure about the A12 film magazine. Ideas?

I think that is what I'll do.

 

Now, I was thinking of buying a newer 2.8 or f4 lens, but how do I know it will be in good shape, and not require a service 2 weeks from when I buy it?

Despite requiring separate forms to be filled out for body and lens, Hassel sent back a single quote which is incomprehensible. There are 6 or 7 line items on their quote. The total of the 3 line items with charges on them is $750. It isn't clear if that is just for the lens or for both. I sent them an Email in attempt to get an answer from them.

yes, the odds are very good - I decided to try it just before boxing it up for shipment to Hassy Repair... it jammed again.

My 500 c/m Hassy manual calls it "Speed-up release" - dunno if you guys track arcane matters like the dates of running changes in manuals (like old Porsche nuts do...) but the C is in blue...

 

Anyway, I will send it back to them after the holidays; Thx for all the help and have a happy holiday!

cycled it 2x; then tried to mount the lens - which went on fine

 

cycled it a few more times and it now seems fine, tho who knows when it will seize up again...

The thing I called a "speed wind tab" is #17 on Fig.3 of the manual; Hassy calls it "Speed-up release"... I am using the paper manual I got with the camera.

 

Well!! Doing the same thing a dozen times (moving the shaft counterclockwise; tripping the shutter; and jiggling the wind knob)... finally got the barn doors to move and the mirror even dropped down.

Hassy tells me that "there is no cost for evaluation. The typical cost for a V-system service is $300."

 

I'm not clear on what a V-system is; seems like this should be a C system of a 500C system. Anyway, I'll send it n to them once the package transport system clears after the holidaze.

 

Yes, it was torture trying to focus the 5.6 lens - one reason I never shot many rolls of film with it.

Well, I know how to use my old Nikon film cameras it is the hassle-blad that is causing problems...

 

anyway, here are photos of 2 different orientations of the shaft in the body - by moving the speed wind tab on the side, I can rotate the shaft counterclockwise easily and then trip the shutter - that is also why there are the two orientations (one has the raised tab on the LH side; the other on the RH side at the bottom of the tab on the shaft)

I have read the manual, thank you. There is no tech anywhere near me so it would have to be shipped.

 

Again, I am interested in seeing if I can get the body functioning. I can take pics and (hopefully) post them if someone can tell me what part of of the body they would like pics of...

 

Tom, the 'slot' on the body shaft certainly looks horizontal. Would a photo of it help?

 

BTW, the lens is a 60mm/5.6 - apparently pretty old and not very common.

the shutter is open on the lens

the back is now fitted properly on the body

 

I do not understand the following:

"body winds the back and cocks the mirror smoothly, mirror/flaps goes up and down properly as fired and wound"

 

The winding knob does not move in either direction.

 

 

As for taking it in to a Pro Tech, my understanding is that will cost several hundred dollars. True? If so, it is not worth it to me, as technology has turned these bodies into ergonomically esthetic toys as compared to digital cameras.

 

I am interested in getting it working again if I can do it myself or for not too great a sum. And I do appreciate everyone's help in furthering that goal.

the barn doors are closed but can easily be pushed open

 

BTW, just to play around, I tried turning the slot head shaft on the body counterclockwise - turns easily and seems to cock the shutter button - still will not accept lens tho it did retract the prong on the rear of the body but not quite all the way. I did get the back mated with the body however, so that is some progress.

 

Next trick will be to get the lens on the body again.