terry_dent

The easiest way I've found is to activate the meter and then adjust the diopter until the EV display or shutter speed/aperture setting looks clear. Looking at a distant setting in the viewfinder for sharpness is harder for me.

I am assuming that the reason to modify the TC 14E for use on a 500mm f4P is to enable the use of matrix metering with cameras such as the N90s, F5 and F100? Or is there some other reason?

Tor's answer is right on I believe. When you remove the back the shutter curtain retracts. Upon replacing the back you must recock the shutter by holding in the center button within the wind crank and making one revolution. This recocks the shutter without winding the film. The same procedure is used for multiple exposures. Hope this works for you!

Robin, I found that I can take the Series 8 retaining ring off of my 50C and screw in some 67mm filters. It's funny because some will work and others won't. Some only screw in a little way but that is all that is necessary for use. I found a polarizer that works this way. Try a 67mm Cokin adapter. If it works you can use their grad filters.

The backup batery is used so the camera can remember what picture it is on and the film speed that is set while you change batteries mid roll. (I think!). I haven't owned one of these for about 8 years!

I use this winder on my 2003 body. It works well but ads nothing to the hand holdability of the camera. It is not designed as a grip and doesn't work well as one. It is there merely to wind the film for you, which it does well.

Don't buy a Sigma anything unless you want to replace it in a year or two. Spend the money on Nikon lenses and they will serve you for a long, long time! I like zooms but if you go with primes perhaps a 28mm, 50mm and a 105 with works for you.

I'm sure the Bantam will work with the 550Ex but its a pain, You have to use the type of module that goes in the battery chamber then use velcro to hold the door shut or notch the door so it will close. The Canon battery pack just plugs into the external power connection on the flash. Much easier and cleaner!

NPC has a website, www. npcphoto.com. Give it a try. Terry

I had one for a couple of years. I thought it was a great lens, sharp and contrasty. Was tired of carrying an RZ around through so I sold the system.

If you wanted a 645 back you should return this one. Superslides are kind of dead. A real A16 back costs $350 and up. The A16S backs are worth $150-$200. Regards, Terry Dent

What I usually do with a camera or meter prism of unknown calibration is tune it in with a camera meter that I trust. I set my EOS-1 to asa400 and then meter a section of blank wall. Say it reads 1/60 at f8 which is EV 12. I would then meter the same scene with the Hasselblad prism, adusting the film speed until it read EV 12. Lets say the film speed says asa 200. Just remember to set the film speed to 200 for 400 film, 100 for 200 film 50 for 100 film, etc. No need to open up the prism! Good luck. Terry

I currently use the 2000 FCM and 2003 FCW with great success. FCM bodies can be picked up for less than 500CM bodies and use both the C, CF and F lenses. I have had no problems with the shutter or camera. I think they are great! Just be sure to get a body with out any wrinkles in the shutter. I have seen some with wrinkles and they seemed to work alright BUT if these cameras need a shutter replaced it costs over $500.00! I put the new D screens in mine and they are a joy to use.

I too have the Pentax 5.5x loupe and it is top notch for the price. I enjoy using it on my 6x6 slides. It doen't cover the whole slide but the clarity is spectacular! Terry

I have both a 90 and a 45 prism and I use them both in different situations. The 45 has a larger magnification but he PME-90 has an outstanding meter system. Whatever you get be sure it has the front flange notched or you won't be able to see your meter readings. All current model Hasselblad prisms have this notch. Terry

Ken, I had this system at one time and had all three, 35, 45, and 55. If I had to choose one it would be the 45mm. The 55mm isn't wide enough and the 35mm is too wide a lot of the time. The 45mm was my most used wide angle. (By the way the 150mm Sonnar you sold me is working famously!) Terry

Does anyone know where you can get a die cutter to cut super slides (40 X 40) out of a larger 120 negative. I know a guy who has one that Mamiya made years ago but I have not been able to find oneDoes anyone know if they are they currently made?

I am considering purchasing a 202FA and it is my understanding that you can not trip the leaf shutter of a CF lens with this camera. The mechanism to trip the leaf shutter doesn't even exist in the body. This is why it is so much cheaper than the other F bodies. The literature says you can use CF lenses with the focal plane shutter only and can not use the new CB lenses at all, as there is no "F" setting on these lenses. Is this right or wrong?

Hasselblad has just announced a new eyepiece magnifier for their prisms. The picture I saw showed one on a PME-51 but I understand that it will fit the current 90 prisms. No idea on availability or price.

I have a 2003FCW body that I use with F and CF lenses with no problems. My longest lens is a 150 and wanting something longer I bought a chrome 250mm C lens. I don't use this long a lens much so I bought the cheaper C. The lens works fine on my 501CM and ELM but it has a problem on the F body. As soon as I mount it on the 2003FCW the shutter in the lens trips. Pressing the shutter release on the camera fires the focal plane shutter. Now I turn the wind crank which cocks the lens shutter and the body shutter. As soon as the wind stroke is complete the leaf shutter fires. It was a real bear getting the lens of the camera now with the leaf shutter tripped! I managed to do it without damage. To make sure that it wasn't a problem with the lens I tried a friends C lens, a 50mm, and it did the same thing! I had the shutter speed dial on the C setting. What is wrong here? I thought this body would accept all F, C and CF lenses. I don't have an owners book for the camera. Is there something I'm missing???

Hasselblad offers 70 bayonet to 77mm screwed adapter. This allows you to use 77mm lenses which are readily available on your FE lens. Any Hasselblad can get you one. I bought mine used from KEH for $45.

I have a chrome 250mm non T* and it is a great lens. Keep a hood on it and you will get great results.