sait_akkirman

Depands on the subject and also who is actually producing the bill board. As a rule of

thumb your digital file needs to be 1/10th the size of the finished bill board at

300dpi. If your bill board size is 60x132" your digital file to the bill board producer

needs to be 6x13.2" @ 300dpi. Talking to the producer first avoids problems later.

A few years back, I read in a local photo monthly an article by

our most well known sports photographer, in which he

complained about loosing the same screw on his M6. He wasn't

very impressed either.

Why did she cut her finger nails immeadiatly, between the 2

shots, they were a good length ???

I know that as a "LIBERAL" I should not be posting on this

thread, but I hope I will be forgiven just this once. This is copied

from the last page of his book "I Protest" signed D.D.D, Sunday

St Patrick's Day 17/03/68, New York:

"Once again I depend upon two Leicas (custom built M3Ds),

crossed bandolier-style on my chest. One Leica is fitted with a

Leitz 50mm f1.4 lens, and the other with a Canon 25mm f3.5

lens. Both lenses are fitted with medium yellow filters. In

addition - hanging down the centre of my chest - I carry a Nikon F

with a Nikor (?- typo ?) 200mm f4 lens, also fitted with a medium

yellow filter. The film is Kodak Tri-X, developed in KodakD-76 at

the Life magazine photo-labin New York...... I store approx fifty

rolls of 35mm Tri-X, specially sealed in discarded Ektachrome

cans by my darkroom friend at Life....."

Could some one help me with contact details of repair person(s)

or service agent(s) for Hexar RF in Singapore. When this forum

was with Greenspan, somebody mentioned this info re focusing

problems with Leica lenses, but I cannot locate the thread. I will

be flying through Singapore (will be there for 1 day only) and

would like to make prior arrangements. Thanks in advance. Sait

Roger, I agree with you that latest electronic cameras from both

Nikon and Canon have had problem production start ups, but

these are very complex mechanical and electronic devices.

When you are making a comparison, I think you have put M7

against Nikon F3, FE, FE2 and FM3a.

My first camera (41 years ago when I was 14) was my

grandfathers Leica II (a converted Leica I). I still have it though

the shutter curtains have parished.

Elliott , thanks to people like you Leica can get away with shoddy

quality control and outdated production methods. The only

reason I read this forum is to find out if other people are having

the same quality and mechanical problems I have had with

using Leica equipment over the years, and yes other people are

also having the same or similar problems. If you take the trouble

to read other sites and threads, you will find that, compared to

other non-autofocus 35mm cameras, Leica products don't seem

to do as well as their reputation suggests. Reading the

problems and associated cures on this site has enabled me to

continue to use my Leica gear, instead of selling it all in

frustration.

<p>

Despite associated problems, I still use Leica system for my

work, where suitable, but this does not mean I have to turn a

blind eye on all its short comings.

<p>

The problems I refer to are accuracy ( or rather lack of) of

shutters and rangefinding systems.

<p>

I would like to take this opportunity to thank John Collier for his

vast knowledge and polite advise. I have benefited a lot from his

contributions.

Elliott , thanks to people like you Leica can get away with shoddy

quality control and outdated production methods. The only

reason I read this forum is to find out if other people are having

the same quality and mechanical problems I have had with

using Leica equipment over the years, and yes other people are

also having the same or similar problems. If you take the trouble

to read other sites and threads, you will find that, compared to

other non-autofocus 35mm cameras, Leica products don't seem

to do as well as their reputation suggests. Reading the

problems and associated cures on this site has enabled me to

continue to use my Leica gear, instead of selling it all in

frustration.

<p>

Despite associated problems, I still use Leica system for my

work, where suitable, but this does not mean I have to turn a

blind eye on all its short comings.

<p>

I would like to take this opportunity to thank John Collier for his

vast knowledge and polite advise. I have benefited a lot from his

contributions.

I think quite a few joint Leica / Hexar RF users who do proper

tests now all this already. But we are not media GODS so no

body takes any notice of our postings. The point I want to know

is a point made by Dante that the difference in focus point was

corrected on newer RF bodies, so that RF matches the Leica

back focus. If this is correct than in the future there has to be 2

sets of Hexanon lenses for the RF to cover the old and new back

focus distance RF bodies.. Any comments ??

Nice shot Travis, I am glad I persevered with the beginning of the

thread, otherwise I would have missed it

You can always take a shot and look at the film to see whether

the result is sharp or not.

I was actually trying to be sarcastic at the expense of all those

people who think film will be extinct in a few years time !! Some

of you guys take things a bit too literallly at times. No wander

Phil the Great has a good time on this forum. Personally I think

film will be with us for a long time yet. Happy shooting.

This is for doomsday soothsayers from Kodak Professional

Newsletter email:

"New Black and White Films

Kodak commits to the future of traditional B&W silver based film

emulsion in order to continue to offer

photographers the film they love. Kodaks� �Project Guardian� has

resulted in the development of new state-of-the-art

manufacturing facility to take new improved Kodak B&W film into

the future.

A new improved T-Max 100, 400, and 3200 as well as Plus X

Film will become available in June 2002 on a product

roll over basis followed by new improved Tri-X later this year.

The new production ensures the continuance of B&W with

improved product quality and consistency similar to what

you enjoy with our high tech Portra and E100 Film Families.

The new films will offer better film handling characteristics; new

finishing coatings with harder, better drying

characteristics from improved processing. All will be easily

recognised in distinctive new packaging.

To achieve these benefits film development times are slightly

longer and Kodak New Zealand is carrying out extensive

pre-release processing with laboratories to ensure you can have

total confidence in the performance of these new

films on release.

For more technical details you can go to:

www.kodak.com/go/bwfilms"

Repair should be done by someone qualified. Settling for a

lower 1/1000 actual speed (eg 1/700) might also ease the

problem as the slit then will be wider.......

Travis, when the problem shows at the top of the neg, (don't

forget that the film is travelling upside down in the gate), you

really have to look at the lower portions of your curtains. If the

problem is on the following curtain edge it is easy to check - you

turn the speed to "B" setting, without a lens on the body, push the

button to let the first curtain go then put a pencil, or similar thing

into the open gate and let the second curtain loose and let it

settle against the pencil. Now look at the edge from both the

back and the lens sides of the camera with a magnifier to find

the imperfections. (I do not accept any responsibility for this

suggestion if anything goes wrong). If the problem is on the first

curtain then I am afraid it is a repair persons to dismantle the

whole thing and check the curtain edge. The repair has been

done successfully on my particular camera.

I am repeating my reply here because I have had this problem

with more than 1 Leica body. I think it is another important Leica

problem that should be known. Specially if you are testing to buy

a new or second hand body. The problem is streaks parallel to

the long side of film manifesting themselves mainly at 1/1000

sec (sometimes at 1/500), and specially noticable when you

have an even subject matter like blue sky.

"Travis, I know exactly what the problem is, because I have had it

too in exactly the same place. It happens when the edge of one

of the blinds (the metal strips) is not absolutely straight and

smooth up and down. It happens mainly at 1/1000 and

sometimes at 1/500 depending on subject matter. At 1/1000 the

shutter slit is very narrow, and where there is any imperfection on

the metal edges (e,g. like a pimple sticking out) that spot causes

slightly less exposure at that height on the film. As the shutter

travels across the film this manifests it self as a darker (less

exposed) strip on the film. At slower speeds the shutter slit is

wider, so the proportion of the "pimple" to the size of the slit is

much smaller, so it does not show itself as an exposure

difference. The fact that streaks are strong on one side and they

dissapear towards the other is because your slit is uneven from

left to right. I f you make tests you will probably find that at 1/1000

one side of your frame is darker than the other side due to

unequal shutter blind travek speeds. If all this does not make

sense, get in touch with me. "

Travis, I know exactly what the problem is, because I have had it

too in exactly the same place. It happens when the edge of one

of the blinds (the metal strips) is not absolutely straight and

smooth up and down. It happens mainly at 1/1000 and

sometimes at 1/500 depending on subject matter. At 1/1000 the

shutter slit is very narrow, and where there is any imperfection on

the metal edges (e,g. like a pimple sticking out) that spot causes

slightly less exposure at that height on the film. As the shutter

travels across the film this manifests it self as a darker (less

exposed) strip on the film. At slower speeds the shutter slit is

wider, so the proportion of the "pimple" to the size of the slit is

much smaller, so it does not show itself as an exposure

difference. The fact that streaks are strong on one side and they

dissapear towards the other is because your slit is uneven from

left to right. I f you make tests you will probably find that at 1/1000

one side of your frame is darker than the other side due to

unequal shutter blind travek speeds. If all this does not make

sense, get in touch with me.

When you guys say lens made by Canon, do you really mean

lens made by Sigma to Canon design ???

I have just purchased an Epsom 1290, and finished printing my

first 50 sheets of A4, with an approx 1" white border around each

pic, all at best possible quality. Ink and paper cost together

comes to NZ$2.50/A4 sheets, that is just over US$1/A4. In a

couple of months when I have made a few more prints I will have

a better idea. For 50 sheets I used approx 1 colour and 2/5 b&w

cartridges. Hope this gives you some idea.

Johann, my experiences are based on what I get on film and I

agree with you that correct lining up and focus at infinity does not

automatically mean correct focus at near distances and vice

versa.

François, that would mean there would be 2 sets each of

28.35,50 and 90 Hexanons out there. Tricky one.

"I suspect that the Hexar RF is now mfd to the same FFR as the

Leica (27.95 to the inner rails). because it seems that everyone

who has had real register problems has had a low-S/N Hexar. I

surmise that they figured out the problem fairly early on." This

was a suggestion by Dante in an earlier thread. Does this mean

that Hexanon lens can be purchased with 2 different

specification - one for early Hexar RF bodies, one for Leica & late

Hexar RF bodies. I doubt it.

<p>

My tests conducted at 50m, and 1m, and viewed at x40

magnification, show that my Leica lenses 28mm to 135mm)

focus as perfectly as the system allows on my M4-P body and my

Hexanon 50/2 focuses pefrfectly on my Hexar RF body. I find that

Hexanon does not focus properly on my M4-P, and my Leica

lenses do not focus on my Hexar body adjusted for Hexanon

lens. Howeever, I can adjust my Hexar body, so that my Leica

lenses will focus quite well with it. In this case the Hexanon is

out of course. I hope this helps. As it has already been

mentioned, I would also prefer Hexar over an M7. The main

negative about the Hexar is battery usage if you are doing

serious shooting as the batteries are not cheap.