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I'm not familiar with that particular camera, but the general release sequence of horizontal cloth shutter SLRs requires the second curtain to complete its travel, to release the mirror and the wind lock. The curtain can be checked by placing a finger on either side, and trying to move it to the rewind side.

 

If the problem is the second curtain travel, the cause is usually dirt and dried lubricant, and the cure is to have the camera serviced.

Thanks, it was exactly that - it just need a prolonged wiggling with the curtain. Then the mirror went down.

Sadly, next wind & shot & wind sequence resulted in jammed shutter again. This time there is a curtain "holder" (the one closer to the film plane) being visibly stuck in the middle of its travel. It's impossible to perform the finger trick again due the mirror being in position.

I'm going to try to remove the bottom plate and check the internals for accumulated dirt as @kmac suggested. However, removing the bottom power switch requires a "pig nose" tool which I need to obtain first.

Hello,

one of my old Topcons has given up recently. During shutter action a really strange "springy noise" could be heard. Since then the mirror has been stuck in the top position and the advance lever can't be moved by more than a few millimeters.

Initial investigation revealed the shutter button behaves like the camera is not cocked and the mirror can be forcibly lowered by pulling the short "mount aperture tooth" down. The DoF preview lever does nothing (as the mirror is in shooting position). That's about it.

I got myself the service manual and successfully unmounted top right front and plates - I've even obtained a 1.4mm "holding" screw as the manual instructs. However, under the top right plate, there are no excessive dirt/dust particles nor loose parts in sight.

At this point I'm quite scared to continue disassembling since I got no clear idea what subpart should be inspected next. The service manual doesn't seem to describe of such issue so I'm out of ideas.

Do the symptoms sound familiar to anyone, please?

I've finally figured out how to adjust the light meter (in a very croase way). The light meter itself is rotated by a pulley chain gear which is rotated by the chain link subsystem. So you have to adjust the "gearing meshing" - rotate the meter a bit without rotating the gear.

Description in the service manual is a bit vague (section Exposure Meter Adjustments 2a and Fig. 3), so I made a schematic picture for anybody interested:

A first roll of film has been shot today using this particular Super D body. I'm eager to see whether the repair was successful.

^ Sorry I don't but I will say the chain managed meter function in your Topcon reminds me of the Zeiss Contarex system. They used cables and yes, even tough the meters were shot, just moving the shutter speed dial caused the meter to move - giving the erroneous indication the meter had life left in it. Wish I could help but I have no experience with your camera.

Nice, I've never seen a real Contarex. I know they were known as mechanic marvels, but a nightmare to repair.

For future consideration, since you are handy enough to get inside your camera, once you solve your meter issues, see where you can mount a diode in series with the positive battery terminal to step the voltage of a standard 675 (1.5v) battery down to 1.37v. There is lots on the web about this. I modified my Nikon F's this way and the meter is fine with it.

Thanks for the suggestion. I might do this if the meter gets fixed. By the way, any suggestions how to proceed on that matter?

John, could you, please, elaborate on the "follow the procedures in the service manual" part?

The service manual contains a whole section called 'Exposure meter adjustments'. It also features a troubleshooting procedures and more. Which procedure described there you recommend as the easiest one?

Currently, that particular Super D body has top and front parts removed as per the service manual.

Thanks a lot

Hello everybody,

sorry for necroing this thread... I'm a bit Topcon lover myself.

I got a very well preserved Super D with somehow misbehaving light meter. It underexposes the image by 2+EV (when comparing to a A7 or other Topcon bodies). First I thought it would be the battery - 1.35V vs 1.5V. Other bodies work fine with it. So this is not an issue.

Mechanically the exposimeter subsystem is perfect - chain links, default ranges, etc. Alignment tests results are OK according the repair guide.

In other words - the light meter needle suggests 1/125sec, f/2.8 with 100 ASA indoors. That's not correct.

My last suspect is the electronic part of the light meter. Connection wires seems to be soldered OK. So maybe when a 'serial' resistor loses its rated resistance it could lead to excessive current and thus resulting in greater than expected needle deviation. Thus it might worth a try to check resistance of the resistors.

Thanks