jean-pierreauger

The A12 is a tricky proposition. Its true prices of nice second-hand backs have skyrocketed obscenely in the past two years, but its also true that the Hasselblad gear price rollercoaster has a nasty tendency to turn on a dime when you least expect. The current A12 back prices are absurd- seriously absurd compared to their historical trend since 2009 and that of other more stable Hasselblad pieces (bodies, finders, lenses). I would hate to pay $275 for a back on eBay today, only to have them crater back down to $125 tomorrow. The market is fickle, and Hasselblad in general is moderately to severely overpriced right now vs other MF options.

 

That said, it depends on the overall condition of your specific A12 and whether you honestly think you'll make a go of shooting with the system again (after having neglected it for many years). If the back you sent to Hasselblad is clean (no chips or pitting in chrome, crank intact, mounting plate ridges not worn down too much), then spend $150 to have it overhauled. That fee is a bit on the high side, but a pedigree from genuine Hasselblad repair center is worth it. Presumably that high rate includes replacing any critically worn exterior parts (crank, mounting plate).

 

For future reference, for a spare back consider picking up a nice A24. These are routinely available for $50- $80 on eBay from reputable sellers. You can use 120 film in the A24: it just needs slightly different arrow-lineup when loading, and frame spacing will be a bit peculiar (esp the final 12th frame). And of course you need to remember to wind off the film and reload after the twelfth exposure (the counter will keep going to 24, so if you forget you'll be shooting blanks). The inconvenience is worth it for many of us, given the huge (near $200) savings vs current A12 pricing.

 

Re the lenses: sadly there are no guarantees of getting one that won't need repair suddenly (unless you pay a huge premium to buy one recently overhauled with a warranty from the tech). The lens mechanism is the Achilles Heel of the Hassy system, one that bites hard on unsuspecting casual users who don't realize Hasselblads need regular (and expensive) maintenance. Its never been clear why the hell Mamiya, Bronica and other Japanese lens shutters can go 30 years without major repairs, but a Hasselblad lens can't seem to go five years without vomiting all over itself. Its really REALLY annoying and ghastly expensive unless you're committed heart and soul to the "Zeiss look".

 

You can up your chances of getting a lens that will go the distance by shopping carefully. Above all, avoid the older all-metal silver or black "C" lenses like the plague. I learned that the hard way: they are beautiful to look at and the build quality is unsurpassed, but their Compur shutters are a money pit. Forget sentiment and beauty: opt for the uglier newer CF, CFi, CFe or CB lenses and you'll have far fewer problems. Unfortunately everybody else knows this too, so prices are correspondingly higher.

 

The CF 80mm f/2.8 Planar holds its value extremely well, so historically has been difficult to snag for much under $650 in good working condition from sellers like KEH. Individual eBay sellers sometimes let them go cheaper, but with KEH you get a no-questions-asked 30-day return/exchange/refund policy. The CB version is priced similarly or slightly higher, and offers much nicer focus feel and even more durable shutter. Back in the day it was sneered at for having one less element than the CF, but in recent years has been re-appraised as a damned fine lens in its own right (a hair less sharp in the corners but sharper in the center compared to the CF).

 

Going in another direction, recent prices on the modern 60mm f/3.5 Distagon CF are more stable and affordable than the 80mm Planar CF. If you like the slightly wide perspective of your ancient 60mm f/5.6, the newer lens offers much brighter max aperture, more reliable shutter, and often sells for $500 or so if you stalk eBay listings for a couple weeks. It is also available as a slightly nicer CB or CFi, but those versions cost hundreds more than the CF while having the exact same optics.

Could you explained more in details how to put a 120 film in a A24 magazine ? The arrow on the film paper must be before or after the sign on the magazine....

I say forget the 40mm. The 38mm SWC is spectacular in so many ways.

Positive points for the 40 Distagon:

1) you can compose and focus on the groundglass.

2) you can use the lens with electric motor driven Hasselblad like the 500 EL...

3) Distagon : F/4 and Biogon : F/4.5

4) Distagon 40mm much less expensive