nehril

I've often wondered if you couldn't get an advantage in sharpness by shooting RAW images

and then not interpolating for color: i.e. if you knew the effect of each RGB filter on your

camera's bayer grid, could you get the original light intensity on each sensor? you could

then get b&w images at a higher effective megapixel value.

you'd lose the ability to apply "filters" after the fact in photoshop, but it would be an

interesting exercise. perhaps you could even preserve some ability to apply color filtration

in software by comparing an color-interpolated and adjusted image back to the raw

values.

If I understood Dave Coffin's excellent dcraw.c coding a bit better, I'd code it myself just to

see what would come out.

I have a Philips PCS 2000 enlarger, and I would like to start making

my own b&w prints from 6x6 negatives. The negative carrier that I got

with the enlarger is for 35mm, so I need a new carrier. The carrier

consists of two parts, two metal pieces that actually sandwich the

negative, which snap into a larger plastic cartridge-like thingie

that in turn gets inserted into the enlarger.

Are negative carriers fairly generic, in that I can get any 6x6

carrier to snap into the cartridge? Or am I stuck looking for a

Philips-specific carrier system? Google has no information on this

subject.

I just got into the 6x6 game with a Rolleicord, and it's lots of fun.

However, I recently sent some 120 film to a pro lab for

process/proof, and the 5"x5" prints were not full frame! I lost a bit

of image on each side (a few percent, perhaps.) This made a

difference in a few pictures since I had composed right to the edge.

Now, I understand why 35mm prints are necessarily not full frame

(though I don't understand why they don't offer print sizes in the

right aspect ratio), but are "cropped" 6x6 images to be expected from

a lab? Or should I find another lab?

I would like to suggest that the page for each listed item also include a link that will take you to a Search page for the item in question.

This would make it easier to take advantage of the many discussions in the forums, especially in light of the fact that there seem to be very few reviews up at this time. Additionally, there may be really useful information in the archives regarding a piece of equipment that may not necessarily qualify as a "review."

I also just went through my first roll of 120 (a throwaway roll to learn steel reel loading). Thank you, Mr. Cook, I knew that little strip of paper at the end was supposed to be useful, but I never thought to lick it!

in a sort of tangential question, is the last frame right up against the edge of the film end? I'm worried about scratching a valid frame when I clip it onto the reel. Or do people normally peel the whole roll off and insert from the other (taped) end?

I have just stepped into the medium-format game via a used Rolleicord

Va from ebay. This promises to be great fun! The unit looks great and

appears to be functioning at first glance, however the waistlevel

viewfinder is only bright at the center. A small area (about the size

of the flip up magnifier) is decently visible, anything outside that

area gets VERY dim very quickly towards the edges.

is this normal for Rolleicord Vs? I intend to spring for one of the

maxwell optics screens that I have heard great things about, but I

want to make sure this unit isn't defective first.