ted_hendy

In addition to building several thousand hotel rooms on that land, they are also going to build a humongous parking lot. Starting in about 2 years the only cars that will be allowed in Grand Canyon are for people who have a verified lodging reservation or those who are only using the highway to get from the south entrance to the east entrance, or vice versa, without stopping. The rest of us get to take the bus. I wouldn't be surprised if it works there, as it will since they are the only ones to decide what success is, to see Yellowstone prohibiting cars in a few years. Since I'm griping let me also gripe about signs in National Forests, note I said NF, not parks or monuments, that I've seen lately prohibing walking off designated trails. A local national forest here in Arizona has even blocked off several turnouts (1-2 car parking areas, not land that is being rehabilitated) on dirt roads and prohibited camping except in designated campgrounds, which of course charge. You also cannot park your car on the side of the road. Mt Lemon, near Tucson, now also has an entrance fee on a state highway for anyone who wishes to stop anywhere on the highway and set foot on National Forest land. I'm sure some of you will defend such actions, due to overpopulation, pollution etc. But having been a westerner all my life it galls me to no end when I can't park on the side of a dirt road in a light-moderately used NF and walk where I want to walk. There's a few too many government land managers acting more like land barons than stewards.

Boy have I really screwed this post up. I answered my previous

questions on the RS 60E3 based on my readings of the manual and the

Magic Lantern book. Unfortunately I or it was wrong. So this

afternoon I went to the camera and tried it out to see what really

happens. On my Elan IIE here is what happens. Set CF 5 to 1 if you

want MLU. But then you MUST set the self timer for it to take effect

whether you use the wire remote, wireless, or shutter button. When

using the RS 60E3 or the shutter button itself, with CF 5 set to 1

and the self timer set, the timer goes to 2 seconds, pre-fires the

mirror, and then takes the picture. The 10 second delay is not in

effect. Without the self timer set the MLU does not take effect

whether CF5 is set to 1 or 0. When using the RC1 you still need to

set the RC1 to 2, CF 5 to 1, and set the self timer. Before I answer

another question I will double check it on the equipment first. Ted

Hi Ken,

I was mistaken when I talked about the self timer being

necessary when you use the remote cord. You don't need to set the

timer for that. When you use the RS 60E3 the button on it operates

just like the shutter button. You can have the shutter release when

you press it, you can have a ten second delay when you press it if

you set the self timer, or you can use CF 5 set to 1 and have the 2

second mirror pre fire. With the RC1 you DO need to have the self

timer set. Then on the RC1 you set it to either 'on' (I don't recall

the exact marker) or to 2. When set to 'on' the camera fires right

away when you press it. When set to 2 it will give you a 2 second

delay. Be aware that when you use the RC1 you need to focus and then

set the lens to M (manual focus). That's because from the front,

where you need to be to use the RC1, you can't control where the

camera will focus when you press the release. So you have to pre-

focus and then lock the focus by turning the lens button to manual.

Sorry for the original confusion. Ted

Yep, you're right. Disregard my comment about waiting 10 seconds.

With the RS-60E3 it's just like pressing the shutter and you don't

have to hit the timer button first. With the RC-1 you have to have

the timer button set first, but then you set the 2 seconds on the

remote. Either way, CF 5 has to be set to 1. Ted

Ken,

The RC-1 supports the MLU best because it has a 2 second switch

so that the you don't have to wait the full ten for the shutter to

release. I assume the RS-60E3 supports it, but you would have to

wait the full ten seconds. If you have to do that you might as well

just press the shutter yourself, the vibrations from pressing the

shutter will be gone before the exposure is actually taken. I have

both, and prefer the RC-1. Like Bob said it is very handily kept on

the camera strap with a simple release. For landscapes you set it

all up, press the timer button on the camera, and then just put your

hand in front and press the RC-1. Make sure it is set to 2 seconds.

Jerry, to answer your last question, eye control DoF Preview does not

work in manual focus. I wish it did. I've been taking quite a few

landscapes this summer and it's real dissapointing to manually focus

to the hyperfocal distance, then try to double check with eye control

DoF Preview. It doesn't work. You have to set the lens to AF and

then try to look at the tiny square without hitting one of the three

AF spots and changing focus. This would be my number one choice for

modifying the elan iie if I were king for a day. If there's a better

way I'd like to hear it. I guess like you, I could set the CF but I

don't want to muck with the exposure lock button. I think this might

be a "live with it" situation. Ted

I don't want to discourage you, but I think a reality check is in order. I've spent the last 13 years in SE Arizona with quite a bit of time in the field. I've never seen a Mexican Gray Wolf, much less been in a position to photograph one. This of course doesn't include the desert museum in Tucson where they have a couple. The wolves have been reintroduced into the White Mountains. There's about 15 or so reintroduced wolves. Two problems for you there though. First, it's rough terrain with limited visibility, so seeing them will be tough. Second, they are very closely watched over. I believe that there is a law prohibiting harrassment, which might even include purposefully apporaching one to take it's picture. But good luck to you. Everyone should have a quest.

Stanley,

I went back to the manual to find correct term. Under Predictive Autofocus, in the Elan IIe users manual, it only talks about approaching or retreating subjects. However, in the table below it labeled "Focusing Point Operation in AI Servo Mode" it says this under Automatic Selection: "The center focusing point focuses the subject first. If the subject then moves to another focusing point, focusing continues with predictive AF". That's all part of why I'm confused. In both the AI Servo AF and Predictive AF sections, on page 38 of the manual, it only talks about approaching and retreating subjects. But as I said above, and in the Magic Lantern book, it implies a lateral ability also. Ted

I posed essentially the same question in the Canon EOS FAQ forum, but

received no responses. So I thought I'd try it here.

I've been getting frustrated in trying to use Canon's predictive

autofocus so I went back to the manual. The Elan IIe manual only says

"If the subject approaches or retreats from the camera at a constant

speed, the camera focuses the subject continuously and predicts the

position of the subject for the moment of exposure to obtain accurate

focusing." I thought that I had heard that Predictive Autofocus was

also for tracking a moving subject from the center point to one of

the side points. The Magic Lantern guide says "The...three AF points

make it possible to photograph a moving subject that is not in the

center...the object is automatically "handed off" from one cell to

the next, without the AF losing track." Maybe trying to track a

running deer, moving rabbit or jittery bird is too much, but I've not

never noticed my autofocus keep track from center point to a side

point. So I'd like to hear how some of you do it. 1. Does

predictive autofocus work when the subject moves across the field of

view? 2. Do I have to set the focus point selection to automatic

(i.e., no eye control) and go for the bulls eye effect? I guess my

bottom line question is: What's the best way to photograph a subject

moving across the field of view? My experience seems to show that for

me it is to select a single focus point for automatic focus and then

pan keeping that focus point on the subject. With eye control I find

the focus wandering as I "look" ahead of the subject. I'd like to

hear your solutions and opinions. Thanks. Ted

I've been getting frustrated in trying to use Canon's predictive autofocus so I went back to the manual. The Elan IIe manual only says "If the subject approaches or retreats from the camera at a constant speed, the camera focuses the subject continuously and predicts the position of the subject for the moment of exposure to obtain accurate focusing." The next paragraph is on Focusing point Operation in AI Servo AF Mode, it says "When the focusing point selection is automatic and the center focusing point first focuses the subject, the camera switches to AI Servo AF if the subject moves to another focusing point in the view finder during autofocusing." I thought that I had remembered that Predictive Autofocus was also for tracking a moving subject from the center point to one of the side points. The Magic Lantern guide says "The...three AF points make it possible to photograph a moving subject that is not in the center...the object is automatically "handed off" from one cell to the next, without the AF losing track." Sorry for the long preamble, but here's my questions: 1. Does predictive autofocus work when the subject moves across the field of view? 2. Do I have to set the focus point selection to automatic(i.e., no eye control) and go for the bulls eye effect? I guess my bottom line question is: What's the best way to photograph a subject moving across the field of view? My experience seems to show that for me it is to select a single focus point for automatic focus and then pan keeping that focus point on the subject. With eye control I find the focus wandering as I "look" ahead of the subject. I'd like to hear your solutions and opinions. Thanks. Ted

Hi All, Here's an update. After reading a couple of threads on the eos list server where I saw that two people state that Canon fixed their elan IIe's outside of the warranty I sent mine in. I was very impressed with the customer service folks at Canon's Irvine, CA center. The day they received my camera body one of their people called me. Unfortunately he couldn't replicate the problem. I asked him to specifically try the body with a couple of different lens combinations, he did and called back. I could hear the camera merrilly clicking along on the phone as he tried it. Though he still couldn't get it to fail for him he sent it on to a tech and indicated that Canon would cover the cost, as long as the tech did not see signs of abuse inside. I received the lens back 10 days later. The tech indicated that he had replaced the battery cover (they have a new one with a larger metal bump out to solve the battery size problem), adjusted the shutter speed, and "reset ew." (I have no idea what that means). Anyway, it seems to work fine. I just got it back last night but it seems to be working fine, though I haven't run film through it yet. After trying to deal with Ford for defects in my wife's car and getting frustrated, it was a very pleasant experience to deal with a company that stands behind their product. Kudos to Canon.

I've read articles that claim you can use the Nikon 5T or 6T and a step down ring from 77 to 62. A 5T and step down ring is less than half the cost of the 500D. However, I've not seen enough information to know if there is any vignetting or other quality loss in this arrangement. I'd like to hear from folks who've used this arrangement on the nikon or the canon 70-200.

This is an off topic response. But I want to say thanks to Hans. Hans' response is really what makes this forum great. Where else could you easily and quickly find out that the local cannery burned down and the eagle concentration will likely move elsewhere? I doubt if your local travel agent knows that. Without this forum I don't know how you could get such on-the-spot updates. I'm not going to Alaska this summer, wish I could though. But I could easily see someone about to spend a small fortune to go up there based on other folks' personal experiences from years past, only to find local conditions changed when they got there. This could affect the subject they were going for and they'd be out hundreds of dollars and perhaps their only chance at Alaska. For all the bickering that occasionally occurs on this forum about this lens or that, I think answers like Hans' make it all worth while. Thanks to Hans, Bob, and all the folks who keep this forum going. And John, good shooting. Ted

I assume you mean you can either do the I40 route or the I10 route. Can you go west on one and east on the other? I live in the southern part, but if I had an either or option I'd go northern. I think you have more famous and easily accessible options. I don't know about your schedule, i.e., passing through or going to and staying for a while, but if you go north I'd try to plan an overnighter in the south. I think you could cover a good sample of what is unique down here by going to the AZ Sonora Desert Museum and Saguaro National Monument near it. Both are covered in great detail in other threads.

Erik,

I visited one several years ago outside of Livingston, Montana. If the one you're going to is similar to that then I'd say the best lens you could take would be a good 70-200. You might have a hard time using a 400, especially if you're part of a group. I wouldn't worry about having anything longer, unless if they offer birds perhaps.

No, I wasn't using fill flash during these shots. It's beginning to sound like I've got a bum camera body. It's two years old now, so I guess I'll have to rely on my powers of persuasion with Canon to get it fixed. Thanks.

I just realized I gave the wrong lens. I was using a 70-200 2.8L, not the 28-70. I've got it on my mind because I'm trying to talk myself into one. No luck yet though. By the way, I had the same problem with the older battery, which was why I got a new one for that trip. The old one was duracell and the new one energizer.

Hi Folks,

This past Monday I took my Elan IIe and new shoulder stock up to

the AZ Sonora Desert Museum. FYI, they now have free flights of a

Kestral and Barn Owl daily at 10:30 and a Harris Hawk at 1:30. But

anyway, here's my problem. I noticed that my camera, using either

the 28-70 2.8L or 300 F4L, the AF could not track the bird quickly

enough to keep it in focus. The worst case was the barn owl coming

towards me, nearly full frame (like the bald eagle in the old Canon

ads). The Kestral was just to quick for me to blame the camera. Is

trying to track a large bird coming towards me asking too much of the

Elan IIe? Am I expecting it to do something that is rightly in the

domain of the A2E or the newer body? My other problem, much more

annoying, is that I could only get about 3 frames shot in quick

succession before the camera would lock up. The battery indicator

showed empty. If I let it set about 3 seconds I could hit the

shutter release and it would work again. I had a brand new battery,

anticipating high usage. I also added some folded paper in the

battery compartment due to the common problem of the 2CR5 batteries

being a skosh too small in the battery compartment. I suspect

multiple shots just drains the battery too quickly and it had to

"recharge". Once again, am I asking for too much from the Elan IIe?

Even though the specs say I should get 2-3 FPS do I have to use the

battery pack to get it consistently? By the way, the shoulder stock

works great. Thanks, Ted

Chris, thanks for the responses. I've seen the bar one in the book, the metal tube type at Kirk Enterprises and the Thommy gun type that LL Rue has. I'm concerned about the stability that you would get with a bar type. I like the notion of a rifle type stock where you can use both hands to support the stock. I've started working on it and have come up with a modified thumb hole type stock. I have two enlarged thumb holes, one in the rear for my right hand and one farther forward for my left hand. The front of my stock is sloped, like the Thommy Gun model. But instead of cutting thestock off to a pistol grip I thumb holed the stock. I like having having an angular grasp for pulling the stock back to my sholder. I think it's more natural than the flat forend of a rifle stock. I've also drilled out an area where the trigger would be and inserted my RS-60E3 there with just the button below the stock to act as the trigger. This seems to work really well. The Elan IIe doesn't use a cable release. You have to have their electronic one. To mount the lens I carved out a shallow box the size of the lens base. That worked until I thought that I might also want to mount my 70-200 on it. The 70-200 has a different base size, so back to the drawing board. I like the idea of a rubber pad, that or a cork pad. This would probably provide sufficient friction to keep the lens from turning. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi folks. I've finally decided to go ahead and make my own shoulder

stock. Yes, I could afford to buy one, but I'm one of those types

who'd rather spend a week and $10 building something instead of

buying a new one for $5. I've read most of the past couple of years

worth of messages discussing shoulder stocks. I've noticed that

quite a few folks put their own together. So here's the question.

What recommendations do you have for designing one? I'll be using an

Elan IIe, Canon 300F4 and 1.4X. There's a couple of issues that come

immediately to mind: How do you control the autofocus and shutter

release? RS-60E3? How do use your free hand to help steady the

stock? Should it be built like a traditional rifle stock using the

left hand for underneath support? Does the L.L. Rue Thommy Gun

pistol grip style work better? Is there a better way? Should I

start with an old rifle stock or start with a couple of 1x pine

boards glued together and use a non rifle stock style? I'm thinking

of connecting the lens to the stock with a long tripod socket size

screw with a large washer and wing nut lock. Well, you get the

idea. If there's sufficient interest I'll post my results and design

when I finish this thing. Thanks, Ted

You've received some very good advice so far. One thing that really

hasn't been mentioned yet is the National Riparian Habitat along the

San Pedro River east of Sierra Vista, half way to Tombstone. It's

one of the last free mostly natural rivers in the southwest. Of

course calling it a river is often misleading, especially after a dry

spell like we've had the last month. Nonetheless, there will at the

least be pools of water with lush vegatation that contrast nicely

with the rest of the semi-arid surroundings. Chiracahua National

Monument, further east, is very nice as well. It's much like a muted

Bryce Canyon. If you want to drive for scenics, my choice would be

to take Highway 83, off I-10, exit 281 I think, and head south to

Sonoita. You'll get some great "plains" back by nice mountain

shots. This is along the way to where someone else mentioned the

Antelope area. One of my other favorite hillsides is on Highway 90

at about mile post 301 looking west into French Joe Canyon. In the

morning the shadows against the rimrock are terrific. I think you've

generated a pretty good string of messages describing the greater

Southeastern Arizona area. Good luck.

Hi All,

I'm going to Utah, from southen Arizona, to visit family for

Christmas. I'll be driving and it finally dawned on me that it would

be foolish to zip past either Bryce Canyon or Zion without seeing it

in winter. I've decided to come back via Highway 89 and stop at

Bryce Canyon on about the 28th or 29th. Does anyone have any

suggestions for Bryce in winter? I'll probably only have time for

one morning and one evening there and would like to make sure I hit

the right spots at the right time. I know it's hit and run

photography, but that's better than nothing. Thanks.

The short answer is don't mix DEET and photography. It is very harmful to plastics. If you are in a situation where you have no alternative solution (such as other repellents or mosquito armor)then I suggest a spray bottle of DEET and then only spray your collar, pants, and hat. Do not get it on your hands or you'll start to feel a slimy, sticky substance on your fingers after you use your camera. I'm not sure of the effect on the leader of the film during loading, but it can't be good for it. I'd be interested in hearing what folks do in Alaska during the summer. I hear it's miserable up there from the bugs. With luck I'll find out someday.

As most of you may know, the National Park Service will close the Grand Canyon to most vehicle traffic in 2-3 years. Before that happens I'd like to take advantage of having my car there to travel where I want. Does anyone know which time of year is best for the most dramatic photos of the Canyon from the South Rim. Dramatic to me conveys the great photos and paintings I've seen of good color and long shadows. My last trip there was at the end of January. The morning times lacked significant shadows, the sun basically rose straight up the canyon. It was also somewhat cloudy so that may have obscured the best light. The evenings were much better though. I'm free to head up there when I want too (about a 7 hour drive). But I'd like to take advantage of your knowledge to narrow down the best sunrise, sunset, and mid day seasons. I'd even be willing to share the canyon with the summertime hordes if need be:)

Your right that individual frames will look poor. But, I believe that that is because film is usually exposed at about 30 frames per second, therefore 1/30th of a second shutter speed. Any motion will look blurry at that speed and running the frames together gives you the motion. Even so, when run together, the images are seen in sharp focus. Therefore, they were in focus to begin with, just blurry due to motion. So I'm back to my original question. By the way, I don't dispute that video or motion film will not give the sharpness of good slide film. But the camera/lens technology seems to be there.