alastairwatson

Do not touch the camera ! Notify Jurgen asap about the dust. Of the 5 cameras I have purchased from him, one did have a "flaw", the self timer, but that might have happened during shipping. He corrected the problem. I am happy. The Isolette used on the enclose pic has dust between the lenses, but I see no critical drop in sharpness. [ATTACH=full]1199312[/ATTACH] Aloha, Bill

Cheers Bill. Nice shot as well by the way!

I notified Jurgen as soon as I noticed the dust and attached an image to show him. He said he can't open the image and that I can basically unscrew the lens at the back and clean it myself. He said he doesn't understand how this can happen as he disassembled the lens to clean and adjust it. But it surely can't have happened in transport?! I'd send it back but I've already spent £28 import duty plus £45 on delivery. Can the rear part of the lens just unscrew?

Alastair

I've just bought a Zeiss Mess 524/2 off Certo6. The lens is supposed to have had a CLA but the amount of dust inside the lens is not good. It looks as though he was lucky enough to get a good model and just sold it on. For a lens to have this much dust inside after a CLA seems strange to me.

Tell me your thoughts. How do I go about cleaning this dust. Do I take the lens apart?

Kind regards

Alastair

Thanks for your response giovanni, I was hoping the gs645w would have such a mechanism. With regards to the gsw690, I'm using square filters and changing from t to 1 is not possible due to the lens hood. The camera manual actuallly states to advance the the film to end an exposure in this case. Not ideal I know :mad:

The GS645W which is a GS645S with a 45mm lens instead of a 60mm uses a separate gray T button, residing at the right part of the lens as you look the camera from above, for long exposures. The procedure is you press this button to start the exposure and when you want to end it you press the release button. The correct method to do the same with the GSW690III is to set T, press the release and at exposure end move the speed dial from T to 1. Winding may cause stripes in your film if the lens is not covered.

Hey there,

Does anyone know whether the T setting in the gs645w is the same as in the gsw690ii/iii? Part of me feels like I need this camera in my life but being a long exposure fan, I'm not sure I can be bothered to use the hat method and winding the film on to end an exposure. Could be a deal breaker. Cheers, Alastair

The effect on film is the same as looking through the viewfinder. I do not understand your second question. Except for the very old Rolleiflexes viewing and taking lenses have the same apertures and the same bayonet sizes.

 

The diameter of the lens makes a difference when it comes to choosing a filter system like Lee. The grads for the 100 mm system have a wider transition zone than the grads for the 75 mm system. The 100 mm system aims mainly at larger image sizes (medium format) than the 75 mm system (35 mm, APS-C). Typically Lee grads come in two flavours: "Hard" and "Soft". What is hard in the 100 mm system equals soft in the 75 mm system. I have never used grads on my TLR; I also have a medium format SLR. I suppose the 100 mm system will be very unpractical on a TLR and a 75 mm system might be less unpractical. In that case be careful with "hard" filters. They will turn out to be "very hard" on medium format film.

 

Rollei made a lens shade in Bay III with a holder for (grad) filters at the front. Filters could be positioned up and down just like Lee or Cokin now. I have never seen one and do not know how thick filters were. Their size was rather small so I suppose they will have been around 1 mm thick rather than the present 1.5 or 2.0 mm filters. Finding such a lens shade is going to be difficult and you still have to find filters that fit.

 

Using a polariser on a TLR is not a problem, using grads is quite a hassle.

 

Best regards,

Ferdi.

Thanks Ferdi,

Regarding my second question, I've read somewhere that the viewing lens on the 3.5f is actually 2.8, although I could be wrong (and I often am).

With the filter holders I'm afraid the 100mm might be my only choice as I can then use it on my digital. I had an 85mm filter system from Formatt Hitech on my Fuji x-e2 and my images were vignetting when using the Samyang 12mm so I feel I just need to go bigger.

You say the hard edge grads will be harder on medium format? I've had it in my head that the hard edge grad will appear softer edged on something like the Rollei's lens as it is quite small in diameter. A soft edge therefore will appear really soft as the grad width would almost cover the lens. Can you explain further?

Thanks again,

Alastair

Thanks for all your replies regarding polarisers. Although, the question I'm asking is about grad filters, and the relationship between positioning on the viewing and taking lens. Would the effect appear the same on film as it looks through the viewfinder. Would it be the same with a smaller diameter lens such as the 3.5 or would I be better with the 2.8 as the lenses have a similar (if not the same) diameter.

Alastair

Enjoy the TLR for what it is, and don't try to make it do something it isn't designed to do, like polarizers, split grads and closeups. There are plenty of inexpensive SLRs and digital cameras which will to that with ease. It's hard enough to use one with a tripod, more than 4' tall anyway.

Thanks for your advice Ed. I have enjoyed my tlr for what it is for 15 years. I love landscapes and I love tlr's so I want to use filters. I use digital in a professional capacity and I am well aware of the advantages by my heart is with 6x6. Are you able to answer the question?

Thanks again

Ali

Hello,

New member here. This is my first post after frequently visiting this place for years.

I'm looking to upgrade my Rolleiflex T to a 3.5f/2.8f and I am also looking to invest in some decent grad filters from Lee/Formatt.

I've been thinking that it will be easy to buy a bayonet filter adapter to work with the step up rings, composing & filter positioning with the top as lens as per usual and just twisting the whole thing off and placing on the taking lens. Will this work? Will the effect of the grad filter look the same on the taking lens as the viewing? Would it be better to buy the 2.8 version so the taking lens is the same diameter as the viewing lens?

Thanks

Alastair