david third

I believe I have the part from a Rolliecord 5 that I have broken up for spares, if you are still searching let me know and I will send measurements and pictures.It certainly looks good comparing it to your pictures.

I have one in reserve for difficult trecks that might put my FM3a at risk.They are very nice to handle and apart from a depth of field preview do everything you could need.The meter is pretty good and the screen is very good for a camera that seems to fetch between £10 to £20 on eBay for body only.Very easy to fix most of the faults that might occur as they are easily dismantled, within reason.Hard on batteries but they are cheap and available anywhere.Good luck with it.

David

I really enjoy the process of unboxing a consignment of old photographic items, fresh from the hands of the courier. There's a delicious feeling of anticipation, tinged by a dollop of trepidation. Will these items be up to expectations, or is another disappointment in the offing? Sometimes, as in this case, there's a well-packed little time capsule, a complete outfit that must have delighted a previous owner when he or she first unpacked it, and for a moment I'm transported back in time and share their world. In this case I knew the items had been in the hands of one owner since new, over thirty years ago, and my hopes and exceptions were fulfilled. Here's a picture of the consignment.

 

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The camera is a Nikon F301(aka N2000), circa 1985-90, pretty much a "forgotten" Nikon, sometimes rather unkindly referred to as "the poor man's F3". It came with the heavy-duty fabric Nikon neck strap complete with dog clips and leather tabs, a Nikon-branded camera bag and a very well-thumbed copy of the instructions. It was fitted with the excellent Vivitar 35-70mm f/2.8-3.5 lens, and while I suppose a Nikon lens might be deemed more desirable by some readers, from experience I know the little Vivitar to be a fine performer, somewhat better than the Nikon "kit" lenses of the era. I speculated that the original owner owner might have done the homework and had come to the same conclusion.

 

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The F301 was a landmark camera for Nikon in several respects. It was Nikon's first real move into the new poly-carbonate body, though a metal chassis was retained, and the first to have DX code ISO setting, with manual override. It was also the First Nikon to have an integrated motorised film advance, though film rewinding was still a manual process. The wind offered single frame advance or continuous advance at the rate of 2.5 frames per second. The shutter speeds ranged from 1/2000th down to B, step-less in A modes, though the proprietary Nikon release cable is required for the bulb setting. The camera is switched on by lifting and rotating a collar to the choice of drive options, rather a fiddly procedure.

 

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Exposure metering is full-frame 60/40 centre-weighted averaging, and there is a choice of full manual metering, aperture priority auto and two program modes, High Speed and Normal. The viewfinder features a LED display indicating shutter speed information but not aperture details, and it has the non-interchangeable K2 focusing screen with a split image central rangefinder spot surrounded by a microprism collar. The camera is powered by 4 AAA batteries, accessed by removal of the bottom plate, and an adapter plate was available that permitted the use of four of the larger AA cells. Unfortunately, due to the battery configuration, the tripod socket shifted to the far end of the base plate, certainly not an ideal position for steadying the camera. Apparently Nikon offered yet another adapter plate to remedy this situation. I fitted new batteries and, as usual, nothing happened, but a thorough cleaning of terminals and contacts brought the camera back to glorious life.

 

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I'll post some frames from the first film I've put through the F301, a length Of Arista EDU Ultra 100 developed in PMK Pyro. I found the camera very pleasant to use; the viewfinder is bright and the focusing aids unusually clear and positive, the shutter sound is subdued and the film wind reasonably quiet. The camera has an overall sturdy feel to it and is surprisingly weighty for its size. Exposure in "A" mode were consistent and accurate, though the system tends to favour highlight areas at the expense of shadows, and on a future expeditions I'll make more use of the exposure compensation dial and auto exposure lock button. The Vivitar lens performed impeccably; I'm familiar with the lens as I already have a copy in Canon FD mount, and it's one of my go-to short zooms.

 

Overall, I'm impressed. The F301 is a sensible, practical camera that gets very little attention in this era, and it's completely overshadowed by the Nikon's that came both before and after. It doesn't accept non-AI lenses, which brought it into disfavour with many Nikon users of its era, and it doesn't have the bulk and glamour of some of the late behemoths. But I like it, and I'll certainly be using it again.

 

Construction

 

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Vine

 

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Lattice

 

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The New Hospitality

 

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Ripples

 

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The Smokers' Chairs

 

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Bee-Friendly

 

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The Bottle-O

 

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Hello All

I found a Rolleicord in very good leather case at a yard sale, 20 bucks, and the lens cleaned up nice and the speeds actually sound good.

 

If there are any Rolleicord experts that can help me identify the model I would appreciate it.

 

In Butkus the model looks the same as the Art Deco but doesn't have the Deco plates and there is no exposure table on the back and no button to secure the case behind the film knob on the focus side of camera. This one also has a 3.8 lens rather than the 4.5.

 

I have attached photos so if you can help it would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Don

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Hello,

This is a Rolliecord 1 dated December 1934 and by the serial no. very early in the production.In John Philips The Classic Rollei the pictures and information match.

I would suggest you check the speeds and the lens for haze or fungus then try a film through it to see if you like it. If it suits you, consider a brighter screen which I think can be easily sourced for the more modern models but could be modified to the right size as they are plastic in most cases.

Good luck with it .That serial number indicates a very early model so worth keeping!

Good luck

Dave

Yesterday, I visited the guy selling the Nikon EL body. He was just 17 miles away. A mere 30 minute relax driving. I bought the EL for $60. Not really cheap but the camera was in very good condition and everything was working fine. He also showed me a Rollie 35 and after much bargaining he agreed to sell it for 110$ again not cheap but the camera was in mint condition and everything was working including the meter so I bought it.

 

I am worried that I will get addicted to this. I hope that I don't feel victim to impulsive buying. :)

 

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Here is the Rollei 35T. :)

 

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I also ordered 2 books from Amazon about Camera Collecting. Well I will have something to read during the new year.

I am a Nikon fan and my best one so far is the FE,I love the way it handles and the metering is the best I have used for consistent results for my needs.However the one camera I really was happy with was the Rolliecord 4 ,a superb lens and fitted with a brighter screen it was a joy to use.I spent a few hours in the darkroom today setting up my old bessler enlarger again and used one of my Rollei negs and was so pleased with the result ,not just the sharpness but the character of the lens is so good.My advice would be to buy selectively to use the cameras as it is far more fun to try out a new one and revisit old favourites.I had over 300 cameras in my collection at one point and now am down to about 10 using ones and a box of others that will go on E Bay to fund film and paper.

Just type Lagavulin; my American spell checker likes that (as do I :) )

Try Laphroaig Quarter Cask you will like that, or for a different style Auchentoshan American Oak which is distinctive but not offensive to whisky novices if you want to give it to friends, but on second thoughts keep it to yourself !

Note on last post, Should read Whisky not whisk . Must be American spell checker that won't accept Whisky without an e.Just in case you thought I had too much of the aforementioned when I posted it !

Thanks for that additional tip chulster but in Scotland we use whisk for an overnight soak. It doesn't cure the problem but the camera takes it in good spirit !

Just got back on to the post and see there is a discussion going with some constructive advice, the Nikon is working well but the speed reading is still not functioning.I have a few different results showing a dismantle process but I am avoiding going there as I am content with the way it works.

A couple of weeks ago I looked for a compact zoom and noticed an FE with a zoom of the type I was looking for but the FE was not functioning and I presume it had been thrown as freebie to help the sale.I won the auction at a bargain price and when it arrived the camera as described was non functioning.First clean the battery compartment especially the cap and threads.No result this time but no loss.Picked it up next day to give it a clean and list it as a non worker at a low price.A cotton bud with lighter fluid gets more stubborn dirt off.I remembered an article that said the contacts on the speed dial could get dirty ,so nothing to lose I took out the battery gave a light squirt of fluid under the dial being careful to contain it within the cap and then ran through all the speed settings for a few minutes tilting and turning as I did it.Same with the asa dial

Left to sit and dry out then put the battery back and it has worked perfectly ever since with several films exposed and all good negs and nice balanced prints, so perhaps this will help somebody rescue a written of camera where there is nothing to lose.I am not saying this is what to do but it worked for me.At your own risk!

The price was very good and basically it works now except for having to guess the speed but as I generally have a good idea what it is and the intention was a cheap body to take on rougher excursions with auto exposure but sturdy enough to stand that kind of use.I often buy partial or completely non workers and restore them ,its a hobby .So this one will be kept and so far has been well worth the price.I will get the needle operating and another camera will be saved from the junk pile rather than assuming from the start that it is a lost cause.How many good cameras end up that way? I think most of the reply posts have missed the point that a meticulous clean is worth the while and the camera is now working except for shutter speed indication on auto, it works on all manual speeds, if I was to use a separate meter if I was fussy about a shot it would be possible and that is often my method.

I bought a Nikon Fe advertised as non working meter.When it arrived it was only functioning on the manual speed and no meter.I informed the company and they said no problem we will arrange a return.But I was curious and set about cleaning battery contacts etc.but it was in sparkling condition overall so no difference.Put in a fresh battery again from the first one but no go.Just in case I soaked my cloth in circuit cleaner and did the rim of the battery compartment and the thread of the cover ,it worked! the shutter speeds were operating on manual and auto and a test film proved they were good.The only thing not working was the meter needle but on flipping the screen down I could see it was rubbing on the edge of the plastic number strip and really not moving unless pushed up by the green match needle.So looks like somebody was cleaning the prism base and snagged it.Next thing is to figure how to straighten it out with ought a dismantle of the top.

But it is a good point that simple things can prove to be the problem and a meticulous clean is worthwhile.Any suggestions on the needle problem would be welcome.

My first proper camera was a Zorki 4 with the F2 Jupiter lens.Superb introduction, no light meter but guesswork on exposure was very successful and I had minimal wasted shots.I had it for five years ,during which I shared a house with journalists and would be dragged out at odd hours when no staff photographer was available.My reward was 2 Guineas per shot used ! A lot in these days as good wage was about £15 per week. A lot of cameras came afterwards but I regret parting with the Zorki.

I had an Argus A in my collection but never used it.My version had an extinction meter on the top plate which I thought was a clear and inexpensive addition.

Have located very well engineered stainless steel slotted head screws, near to original but far more durable than the mild steel originals and so far working well, just developed the first set of shots and will post once scanned.

I acquired a Canon Dial in a non working state and set about repairing it ,the motor drive was seised with dried up grease but easily cleaned and lubricated.Shutter same but now working ,the meter is another problem but possibly connections so will delve further.But the motor drive flew off due to the grub screws losing grip ,these are very small and easily damaged ,does anybody know their size and possibly a source ?

The 2.8 E was made between October 1956 and September 1959,your one is a late model as the serial numbers went up to1,665,999.I cannot see the lens because of the cover but if a Planar it would sell for more but I have a fondness for the Xenotar. Keep it and use it you can get high resolution scanners now for very reasonable prices especially second hand.They were built to last and are popular, the price? as much as someone is willing to pay!.Check E Bay for a few months and get the average price and list a starting price but beware there are a lot of crooks out there,I would try to sell on forums like this.

Best of luck,

David.

I have a !939 Leica 111B with F2 Summitar which I bought about 25 years ago from an old gentleman who was a medical officer during the war and ended his tour in Germany.I presume he liberated it, though no details were disclosed .It came with 2 boxes of Zeiss reloads and 2 100ft. bulk rolls of Agfa film.It still works though the small viewfinder and all the manual settings send me back to my Nikon Fm3a with the thought I must try again soon if only to keep it working.I must fish out the last negs and give them an airing in the darkroom. But as I remember my Nikon with its set of 30-40 year old lenses does perform a lot better with no effort required.