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Analog Amateur

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  1. Analog Amateur
    Hello. I need help on the confusing world of gac ports. I have a Godox Lux Senior flash that I intend to use off-camera. It has a 2,5mm (as far as I can tell) gac port on it. The flash came with a small 2,5mm-to-PC sync cable. I can use the flash by connecting it to my camera's PC port with this cable but I want to place the flash further away from the camera. I bought a Godox RT-16 trigger system to use it on my project. I intend to connect the trigger to my Rolleiflex 2.8F using the 2,5mm-to-PC sync cable which came with the flash and connect the receiver to the flash. The problem is that RT-16's receiver has a 6,5mm male gac to get into the flash. RT-16 also comes with a 6,5mm-to-3,5mm adapter which still doesn't allow me to connect it to my flash due to the fact that the Lux Senior accepts smaller (2,5mm?) gac. So my quesition is this: Can I use the RT-16 receiver on my Lux Senior with Lux's own 6,5mm-to-3,5mm adapter and 3,5mm-to-2,5mm adapter on top of it? I hope I managed to explain my problem properly. Thanks.
  2. Analog Amateur
    Thank you very much for these 2 insights and information. They will surely help me on my personal project.
  3. Analog Amateur
    Hello there. I just bought a Godox Lux Senior that I am planning to shoot my Rolleiflex with. While I can use it with a simple PC sync cord next to my Rolleiflex with a bracket I want to experiment with it by using it in different angles. After this plan of mine started to form in my head I started to find out that I know nearly nothing about off camera flash photography. I have been watching educational videos on internet for the last 2 hours and I haven't been able to find the answers to my questions. So I decided to ask them to you. Here they are: Godox Lux Senior utilizes a small exposure disc that tells the user which aperture to use with which flash power according to the ISO and the distance of the subject. While I can use it without any problem when I mount my flash next to my camera or on top of it, I wonder if I should change my settings while I use the camera and flash away from each other. I am planning to use the flash with a trigger and place it 45 degrees to my subjects away from camera to get that Rembrandt shadows. How should I calculate the exposure in this setting? Is the distance calculator on the flash used for the camera's distance to the subject or the flash's distance to the subject in off camera flash photography? I hope I could explain my problems well. I will be waiting for your response. Thanks...
  4. Analog Amateur
    I saw a similiar mechanism in a video of a Japanese seller in web. Maybe it is the regular mechanism that can be found in all the 2.8ds? Thank you for this great insight. I saw a video of a Japanese seller who pushes and turns a knob in front the left camera dial to disengage the EV coupling system. It seems that AJG's camera has the same knob. Maybe this option is on all the 2.8ds?
  5. Analog Amateur
    Thank you for the link. I realized that 2.8d has an older cap flap mechanism for the viewfinder while 2.8f has a newer one. And also more importantly (I guess), The 2.8d has ''Compur Rapid MXV'' shutter while 2.8f has ''Synchro Compur MXV'' shutter. I wonder what is the difference between these shutters. Thank you for the advice Orsetto. I was also thinking of buying a 3.5 but settled upon the 2.8 not just because of the half a stop difference but also the overall ''Rolleiflex look'' that I really like. I am also mostly a 50mm and a 28mm guy. Just after I opened this discussion in this forum I found a seller that sells a 2.8f with a slow shutter mechanism, maybe dusty lenses and without a lens cap. The seller was kind enough to have sent me more pics of the lens and told me that it was used by a professional in a studio and the photographer had not been using the camera for the last 10 years. So it needs a good CLA. I am also very concerned about the condition of the lenses. Should I buy it for 600 USD? Or should I waiT for a pristine 2.8d or 2.8f which will cost me more?
  6. Analog Amateur
    Hi. I have been thinking of buying a classic medium format camera for the past 6 months. Before I was thinking of buying a first generation Hasselblad 500 CM with a 80mm f/2.8 Planar. But I have been leaning towards buying a Rolleiflex that will serve me well with great image quality. Ofcourse like everyone else I first thought of buying a 2.8f with a working light meter and couple of contrast filters I would use. I want the camera which I will buy in pristine condition so that I can use it in years to come with proper CLA from time to time. But as I searched the internet I realized that a 2.8f in mint condition would force my budget a little bit. So nowadays I am thinking of buying a 2.8d in mint condition and playing with it, maybe having put a Maxwell screen on it by a professional in time. I searched the internet and read a lot of things about these 2 cameras but I couldn't find a definitive thread that explains the difference between them throughly. Before making a purchase like that I wanted to hear your thoughts about this subject. As far as I understand 2.8d is a 2.8f without a lightmeter and without the option of changing the focusing screen by hand. They have the same glass options as planar or xenotars. I am not planning to use any prism finder with a Rolleiflex. And I fear that if I buy a 2.8f the selenium cells would die on me in time. If I buy a 2.8d would I get the best quality this wonderful and historically significant brand can offer? Or are there other elements of 2.8f that make it a better crafted camera than the 2.8d? I want the best quality of craftsmanship and the best quality of image if I make such a purchase. These are my biggest concerns. Thanks in advance...
  7. Analog Amateur
    If I decide to stay with my Nikon gear I can definetly try it for 35mm focal length. Thanks for all the suggestions. With your suggestions I now know the Canon rangefinders and Canon IV has particulary taken my interest because of its coupled rangefinder which I really like but I want the best quality I can get in my photos so I would either buy better glass for my Nikon or go for Leica in 35mm. That is why I ask my questions in this forum. I learn a lot of information from experienced gentlemen here. Thank you for your suggestions Mr. Escott. Thank you all for these great suggestions. It has been very informative for me :)
  8. Analog Amateur
    Thank you for your recommendation Mr. Bryant. I may try this approach with Zeiss 35mm focal length for maximum quality in my photos before trying Leica. I just found out the Canon interchangable lens rangefinder world after reading the replies in this post. With the combined rangefinder and viewfinder and a smaller body it looks acceptable for me to try. But I am thinking of investing big for this time so I would either extend my Nikon gear with more good lenses or I would just invest in a system like Leica or Hasselblad which has better chance of lasting out. Thanks for the information :) You undertsood my intention well. I want that camera that I can take anywhere without any fatigue. I don't think of buying a M4 because I like to have a built-in light-meter in my camera because I also shoot slides. I would like to carry a light-meter only when I need to shoot medium format for scenery. I didn't search for wide angle lenses for Hasselblad but as I said earlier, I like to use 28mm for scenery photos and startrail photos so if there is a Hasselblad equivalent I would chooce Hassy. But if there is none and if the parallax does not affect the image on the film a lot I can try Rolleiflex. The problem is my only source on this matter is internet and I can't find a lot of trustable sites that sell these equipment. And the ones I know rarely restock these cameras so finding a Rolleiflex in good order is a problem for me. I can find RB67s in my city but they are really big and heavy to carry in a hike.
  9. Analog Amateur
    You are so right about that ‘’Legendary camera dream’’. Actually one the reasons I want a Leica is because it was the original 35mm camera. I love history and that fact really take my interest. As for medium format, if I am going to take a photo in such a big negative I want it to be taken with the best optics. That’s why I was thinking of Zeiss glass rather than the Japanese glass. I know that Japanese glass is no worse but Zeiss has made a biger reputation of themselves than the Japanese. Well I want the Leica because appearently it is easier to compose a scene in street because you see the outside of the frames and it looks not so aggresive in everyday life while my FM2 looks like a profesisonal tool to everyone. And I really like the look of the Leica :D But as I said in my previous comments, the look and the some of its pros does not justify the price tag for my logic. I wanted to learn your thoughts that if there is anything to consider while buying a tool like that :)
  10. Analog Amateur
    Thank you so much for your opinions on this matter. I need to explain myself in some of the thing I said I think: Regarding the 28mm: Actually I am 50mm guy. But when I travel I happen to use 28mm more because it takes ''more of the scene''. Sometimes I use it for street at f5.6 as a point and shoot but more often I use my 50mm for my street shots because as you said 28mm is too wide for street. And while I love the 50mm sometimes I feel the urge to go a little bit wider and that's why I am thinking of a 35mm lens. While Nikon has a 35mm, as I researched it on the web nearly everybody tells that 35mm summicron is the gold standart. That's why I was thinking of buying 35mm if I buy a Leica. Regarding RFs: I bought a Yashica MG-1 and a Canon QL17. With their leaf shutters and they really helped me to take pictures otherwise I wouldn't get. But the feel of the cameras are nowhere near to the solid built feeling of FM2 so I wanted a better built one which corresponds naturally to Leica. The only thing that makes me wonder is that how much parallax affects the overall image. I can say that I am some kind of perfectionist myself and I love to frame my photos in all of its details but while I was using my Canon QL17 the photos came out pretty good. I felt like they weren't affected by the parallax and I was satisfied with the results. You are right about the hipsters nowadays. Whenever I go to exhibiton and if the photographer used a Leica those guys take photos next to the photographer's camera instead of examining the photos. Regarding the medium format cameras: I do want to own one but I don't know when to get. I will definetly buy one someday because I like the notion of a photo with so much detail burnt on to a piece of film which will last about a 100 years if taken care of. I would like to use it for documenting stuff and for landscapes or scenery. I don't plan to use it on street but I plan to buy one and use it for carefully composed photos like portraits of my familiy members or a good scene. So I was asking if I should buy a Leica first and leave the Hasselblad for the future or if I should be happy with my Nikon gear and take a Hassy or a Rollei to improve upon. (Even though it is heavy I may carry it with a tripod for scenery photos as I explained) I would like to have a Rolleiflex 2.8F but I wonder if parallax would affect the image so much or not, in this case in a bigger negative than a 35mm. I may try the Yashica 124 like you recommended.
  11. Analog Amateur
    You are right. I don't have enough reason to buy a MP but I do want to have better optics and that corresponds to Leica in 35mm and Hassy or Rollei in medium format. And I must confess: I do love the look of the Ms. I carry around a camera everywhere I go except in my work place and Leicas look really innocent to carry everywhere you go. I love to document things around me and whenever I use a metro or get into a museum an official mistakenly warns me to not to take pictures because he/she thinks that my FM2 is a professional tool and I am a pro photographer of some kind. I think that Leica is more suitable for my everyday life. Fuji 6x7 or Mamiya 645 are too in between for my choices. If I would pay that much money I would either get the cheaper medium format to try or just go for the big leaguers :) One of the reasons I want a Leica is because of its portablity and weight so Leicafelx is not an option for me. You are totally right about the cost of a MP. I want to have one but my logic says that it is not logical to spend that much money for it. My logic still tries to comprehend to spend 5000 euros to buy a camera made of brass and plastic while I secretly adore it :D And why do you think that I shouldn't carry different formats for travel?
  12. Analog Amateur
    Hello everyone. I know that there are tons of similiar threads in this forum but I couldn't find a spesific one which answers my questions. Besides I also want to know your prefence when travelling. I have been always interested in photography. Since I purchased my Nikon FM2n 3 years ago my my interest has been increased. I love its tactileness and its mechanical precision. Now I think, as everybody thought in their lifetime once, to buy a Leica as my ultimate analog tool... the one which will be my companion throughout my travels. I know that FM2n can do that as well, maybe better than Leica. The only 2 things that I don't like about my FM2n are that when I shoot street photography some people can hear the shutter and immediately turn around and the fact that this mechanical marvel isn't made anymore. So in time there will be lesser parts to replace. I shoot landscapes, architecture, street and myself (Yes. I am the guy who adjust the self-timer and runs to the scene for the photo in 2010s) For landscapes and architecture my Nikon is very suitable. 28mm f2.8 is just so good that sometimes I use only that lens for everything. And FM2 also has a self-timer which Leica MP does not. But Leica MP looks really discreet so I can take those natural shots in which people mind their own business. Right now I gathered enough money to buy a Leica MP. But something inside me tells that it is wrong to spend 5000 euros for an analog camera which shoots 35mm and does not even have a self-timer. I love the build quality and the precision of it and how it just can be put into the bag because of its dimensions. But at the same time buying a Hasselblad kit for half of the cost and having it in the bag while carrying my old faithfull FM2n looks such a good idea for me. Some of you would recommend me to buy a Leica M6 but if I will buy a Leica camera I want it to be flawless and I don't like the plastic parts of Leica M6 and I also want my camera to brass gracefully as I use it. I know that MP also has a plastic ISO dial on its back but I must live with that as aside from the special editions of it like titanium version every Leica with a light meter has a plastic ISO dial for some weird reason. And as medium format I know that Rolleis are lighter. But the very much sought after 2.8F and 3.5Fs are too expensive for me. And if they break it will be a very expensive one. What are your thoughts on this matter? Should buy a Leica MP with 35mm ASPH or should I buy a Hasselblad 500 C/M with 80mm lens which will accompany my Nikon FM2n with 28mm f2.8 and 50mm f1.4 (and 105mm f2.5 is on the way). Which would be a better gear for traveling in general? Which analog camera do you carry in your travels?
  13. Analog Amateur
    That's a terrible accident. A similiar accident happened to me but it was because of the lab. I trekked around the old trade routes between the ancient Greek cities in Anatolia and shot 4 rolls of slide film which depicted the scenery I possibly won't be able to see in the future and then lab burned them by accident because of a fault in the processing machine. pedro_hing_ recommended to not to use the stop bath either. But as far as I know it can be reused couple of times. Is this information wrong? Or does using the stop bath multiple times really endangers the negative?
  14. Analog Amateur
    Good to hear that. Well. That's relieving. Because of the currency exchange and the price of the chemicals labs wait for 5 slide films to pile up before developing them in my city.Tha That's a very interesting information. I might try to test it. Thanks for pointing that out.
  15. Analog Amateur
    Thank you very much for this textbook-level information. It is very useful and I am sure that I will use this in my progress. I read about selenium toning and think of doing that in my progress in this hobby but it will take years for me to try it :) Thank you very much for answering all of my questions. You relieved me greatly. Now I know what to do with my stored chemicals :) And thank you all for teaching everything I asked for. This thread was very useful for me to learn about the topic I was curious for :)
  16. Analog Amateur
    Sorry for missing that thread. Next time I will be more careful when opening a new one for my questions. And thanks for suggestion :) Thank you for the suggestion. I am a very obsessive person so I think I will stick with glass or polyethylene since develop my films once in a month at best. But if I run out storage space it is a very useful information that those soda bottles can work for my need :) I didn't know that yellow color is for indication of pH in stop bath. I don't remember if the solution I mixed for the development had that yellow color or if it diluted away with the water. Still it is a very useful information for me in case I make another mix if I don't trust my old stop solution. Thank you. I will also search for marbles for my glass containers. I have 500ml Paterson tank and 500ml glass bottles for each mix so it would help greatly if I squeeze that little pocket of oxygen with these. Thank you for the suggestion but I am afraid of any fumes that might come out of the developing chemicals if discarded to the drain. I know that they are very diluted solutions and they don't last long if discarded to the drain but I can't convince my OCD-brain to to that :D So I will stick with the bottles and give the used chemicals to the waste disposal :) That is quiet a useful information. Thank you very much. I think Ilford suggests to use DD-X for one time only. Also I remember that while I was using the stop and fix baths the developer solution started to get dark out in the open. I was careful enough to realize that something went wrong with it and learned that it is a sign of oxydation. So I won't use my developer mix again I think. How about the sediment? Is it part of the developer that deposited on the bottom of the mix? Or is it the part of the developer mix that is used?
  17. Analog Amateur
    How about the time passed after the expired film is shot and before it is developed? I have lots of Sensias and Velvia 50s and because of the developing practices in my city my roll may wait weeks before it is developed. I just shot a roll of Velvia 50 last week and it has still been in my bag, waiting to be sent to the lab. Does this delay affect the expired film?
  18. Analog Amateur
    Hello, I couldn't find a thread concerning about this subject in this forum. I hope I am not mistaken and my questions are relevant. I developed my first roll of film 21 days ago and I want to develop 2 more rolls right now. But I am not sure if I can use my stop and my fixing solutions after all this time. I used Ilfostop and Ilford Rapid Fixer in my first try and stored them in dark glass bottles in case I would use them again. A friend of mine told me that I can use those solutions for 15 times at most before dumping them for recycling. Is that correct? Or should I make another fix and stop solutions because of the time passed. What is your method of storing reusable film developing solutions?
  19. Analog Amateur
    I will definetly wash the negatives in this fashion next time. But is there anything I should do with my smelly negative? Because I am going to store it in the same plastic folder with my other negatives and I don't want it to damage the others.
  20. Analog Amateur
    Good to heat that. I will definetly do this method in my next try. How about the roll that I developed? Should I re-roll it to the reel and wash it properly this time? Can there be any damage to the negative if I don't rewash it? I am going to archive this negative in the same plastic Print File folder. I don't want any of the chemical fumes which might come this negative to damage my precious others.
  21. Analog Amateur
    Actually I had been thinking about that detail until you confirmed that this might be the case. After the fixing process I just let the tank sit under the running tap water and the tank wasn't fed up from the bottom. I thought it would be enough for cleaning. I emptied the tank twice in this 15 minutes period though but now I am not sure if it was enough. Thanks fot pointing that out.
  22. Analog Amateur
    It smells like one the chemicals I used but I can't tell which one. I will check it once I get back home. I am currently doing that :) Good to hear that because I loved the whole process :) I was also telling myself that people did this for at least 100 years as professionals there is not a common knowledge that those people all had cancer because of it. I will continue to do it in a controlled environment. These comments made me relieved. Thank you. By the way is there any recommendation for cleaning the equipment after developing the film? I just washed them with a lot of tap water and let them dry. If this is not the proper way I would like to correct it. Thank you all for your replies :)
  23. Analog Amateur
    Hello, After a lot of preperation I just developed my first b&w film today in my home and I was somehow succesful at developing it in the way I wanted to do it. But I have a problem about the smell. Even though I washed the negative in the tank with running water for at least 15 minutes and then washed it with Ilfotol wetting agent there is a weird smell coming from the developed film. Before that I used to give my films to several labs and none of them came with this weird smell. I developed Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600 with Ilford Ilfotec DD-X developer, Ilfostop stop bath and Ilford Rapid Fixer for the fix bath. I am scared of chemicals. I learned that developing chemicals are very hazardous to health. Some of them are even carcinogens. I would be grateful if you enlighten me in this subject as I am very excited and want to develop more film.
  24. Analog Amateur
    ben_hutcherson Sir thank you for putting your own camera in danger to answer my question :) I live in a country in which these equipments is really expensive even though it is from 80s so I asked to you before trying. Now I can use my remote control as intended. Thank you all for all the replies.
  25. Analog Amateur
    Well the thing is I bought the remote control module in case I take a photo of myself from really far away. I didn't want to buy a meters long shutter release :D My camera's self timer takes about 9 seconds before it takes the photo and even though I use like a 3 meter long shutter release, for some situations it won't be enough. Thanks for your suggestion anyway :)
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