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Posts posted by chad_jarvis1

  1. Bogen 3021/3221 legs with 3047 head. I've used mine for six years with no issue. Extending the second leg section fully causes splaying, but I generally don't extend them beyond halfway. This is probably the best bang for the buck combination when looking for something economical and fairly lightweight.
  2. Don't forget lanthanum, a rare earth metal used in lighting and obviously where the name Lanthar comes from. There are 23 radioactive isotopes of this element in addition to the 25 stable isotopes.


    Radioactivity is a relative term. Stick your dosimeter under a dental x-ray camera for a second, and compare the reading to what you get off your lens overnight. You will be frightened of the dentist's office the next time you go.

  3. Actually the f/12.5 is more desireable than the f/9.5 version. If it were coated, it would be called a Raptar, not a Velostigmat. I owned an f/9.5 version for a while and used it quite a bit. It won't cover more than 8x10 but is still a pretty sweet little lens for landscapes. Mine was also in a Betax #3...not the greatest shutter ever made, but, like the lens, very light.


    Oh, I believe the smallest aperture in f/64, not f/84. Not that it matters...you'll probably want to stay at f/32 or f/45 anyway.

  4. A large (5 gallon) drywall compound bucket will accomodate an 11x14 or 7x17 sheet of film. Paint the outside with some opaque acrylic house paint, mount your pinhole lens (I guess those buckets would give you about a 12in focal length), glue some guides inside, and you're in business. Just a large version of the old Quaker Oats camera.
  5. Carbon prints are made with gelatin and a pigment like sumi ink handcoated on a base (paper or plastic) and sensitized with dichromate. After exposure the "emulsion" is transferred to another support where the soft, unexposed gelatin is washed away. It is then either trasnferred to another permanent support or left alone to dry. The finished product has a relief effect...very 3D.
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