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josh_bailey2

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Posts posted by josh_bailey2

  1. Good condition Aluminium Sirui N2400KX tripod with a Cambofoto BT30 head.

     

    Comes with all the spare parts - I just realised that the tripod plate does not appear in the pics as it is currently attached to the camera I took these pictures with. It will of course be included.

     

    Used a handful of times but I think ive realised my heart does not lie with tripod photography.

    Its worked great for me, overall in great condition with a few scuffs here and there but definitely nothing which detracts from performance.

    One of the legs unscrews to become a monopod In last pic you can see the legs fold back over the stem of the tripod so its super compact.

     

    Some stats from Sirui:

    4 Section

    Max height 1360mm

    Max height extended 1650mm

    Weight 1.8kg

    Load 15kg

     

    If you have any questions please feel free to ask! Asking for 130 all in

  2. My bad boy was 700 gbp.including a CLA and 12 months guarantee....from a main dealer in Leica.

     

    To get a quality M2 you have to spend the pennies..otherwise don't bother.

     

    Or, cry, that you bought a piece of sht.

    that was for an m2? i think that sounds about decent for what i can afford and ill have to stretch a little to get useable lenses but if its 700 for a serviced and guaranteed m2 then i think ill go ahead and look for something like that

  3. Check the big auction site for completed sales on prices and note the stated condition as well as whether or not it has recently had a CLA. You could also check houses such as KEH for their pricing. If you are buying without knowing all the details, plan to also possibly pay for a CLA, as the lubricants do congeal over time, and the rangefinder/viewfinders fog, and the M2 is rather long in tooth. I think the possibility of finding one with a recent Leica lens in good condition, in your price range, may be a little bit of a stretch, but certainly possible if you are wiling to take your time to find one in good condition. However, if you are willing to go for a slower lens, such as the 50/3.5 Elmar, or a non-Leica lens, such as a Canon Serenar 50/1.8 (double Gauss design) or Nikkor HC 50/2 (Sonnar design), all 3 fine normal lenses, you can keep the costs down without sacrificing quality.

    Okay thanks, even if it says it's had a service I guess I'll keep in mind the extra money just in case it wasn't entirely true...

    As for keh (as far as I can see?) It's American and from forum discussions and threads I've seen so far the American market is priced differently to the UK one and I don't want to pay the shipping and import duties on it

    As for the lens, there is an elmar 35 3.5 paired with a good condition m2 with lightmeter and half case for £1250 on eBay but he's accepting offers. I'm not sold on it yet because it was the early button rewind which I dont mind, but people have said there had been troubles with them

  4. Look on the Net for sold for prices and asking prices. That and what you can afford / are willing to pay are the best guides. I have often caught items with low Buy it Now prices and gotten a very good deal having done the homework first. Poor condition is almost never a good idea IMO. Good Luck!

    Yeah I'm still in the process of that, but eBay seems to have inflated price vs other places I can find (such as classifieds on forums) apart from that, from what I can seee they go around 550-700. I've found two that look okay at the moment but I'm going to have to try and haggle about a little.

     

    Do you recommend searching only for those that are serviced, hopefully with a lower overall price vs buying and them getting an overhaul myself?

  5. Hello, does anyone have any idea of a ballpark figure I should be paying for the m2?

     

    I think this would be the best option for me (frame lines, no meter, mechanical etc) and have started looking one, but have come across lots of different figures...

     

    The budget is (hopefully) around £1000 (inc lens), but feel free to tell me I'm crazy if that seems unrealistic. I'm fine with the button rewind version which will hopefully help reduce the price a little, but am ideally looking for a decent user condition but by no means a safe Queen.

     

    I know I'll have to stick to lower condition and older glass for a while but I guess at the moment that's okay until I can get more funds.

  6. <p>Hey guys i have an f1, and im looking to buy the prism head (the one with no meter?) but i have been told that these are generally the most expensive out of most of them.<br>

    Does anyone know actually how expensive expensive is, and where would be best to look for one?</p>

    <p> </p>

  7. <p>rajmohan, <br>

    Would there be any point in getting one of the copies rather than the origional thing? How much would the g2 set me back vs the copies, would my budget not cover it?</p>

    <p>And if i went with an m3, is there no entry level/cheaper lens which i could get to tide me over? If not then ill have to think about it more, because as many people say, if i get into rangefinders and get something other than a leica then i will forever be wanting to at least try one? If i went with a leica i would probably want M mount so i can keep the same lenses across if i do upgrade to an m3 or m6 or something unless thats the definate best option.</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>What leicas are in my price range? and they dont come with the lenses :-0. The m3 really appeals to me (simple, durable, high quality, interchangeable lenses, high shutter speed) but unfortuanately i dont believe i can afford that + lens. </p>

    <p>And is it true that the minolta CLE will die if it doesnt have batteries in it? </p>

  9. <p>I've been wanting to move into the rangefinder game; I've been shooting with mainly SLR cameras (nikon f2 and f3) and would love to experience shooting with a rangefinder. I've done some research and there are many options and I would like some solid facts on finding a durable, and functional (and budget) rangefinder. It needs be under £700 for both the body and the lens, so it can be fixed if absoloutly necessary. <br>

    Ive been looking at the contax g2 but would much much rather have a mechanical, and manual focus camera, rather than electronic (unless they are really that good). The konica rangefinders also have been ruled out because of low max shutter speed. Not really sure what else is an option for me so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you :)</p>

  10. <p>" It's an aperture priority camera"<br>

    <br>

    Thats what i needed to know, thank you. Its not mine (i found it in brothers loft) and didnt have a manual or anything for it so i really wasnt sure what the needle was showing me, shutter speed or if it was the lightmeter</p>

  11. <p>jim, yes that is what i mean. I think everything works fine apart from the fact that it takes more effort. When the lens is off the camera, its completely fine and ive tried other lenses with the body and it happens with the same thing. When i try move the arm with my finger, it moves quite alright, apart from when i try and move it from the middle (default) to the far side which f22 or whatever number it would be at. The arm goes inwards/upwards into the finder</p>
  12. <p>DP1 viewfinder is really sticky when it goes from f5.6 to f8. Is this something i should be worried about? and would it be best to get fixed straight away? i think i could learn to put up with it, or just get a new finder, but if its not bad for the photos or camera im chill with just using it sticky</p>
  13. <p>So i have a nikon f2, i believe this is the dp1 head, and im not sure if its broken or not.<br>

    On the front of it, where it shows the apertures, it seems that it doesnt change to whatever aperture im using? it will go one way or the other but doesnt go the other if i change it on the lens. Is it broken?</p>

     

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