patrik_ros_n

Managed to un-jam it! I switched battery in the body, not sure if that helped though, but I unfolded the rewind crank, and pushed the center button used to remove the rewind mechanism, and that made the mirror to fold fold back again!

I know how to in-jam a 500 series but the 200 series is a bit different...I'll try to search some more

No the shutter release button is not stuck, I could insert the dark slide and remove the back.

Hi All!

 

I have a new 202FA body which I use with my Planar 110/2.0, yesterday I was about to do a 1 second exposure, but after shutter was done the mirror didn't fold back, the lens is stuck and the rewind crank as well. Anyone here has a tip on how to manually fold back the mirror to reset this?

 

Best Regards Patrik

Don't underestimate the Summicron 40/2.0, I used it a lot on my M8 before upgrading to M-P

As many others have said, try it out first! Maybe your have a friend with an M body or you can rent one maybe?

Cheapest/best way to get into Leica rangefinder is without a doubt the Leica M6, another option could be to get hold of an M2, they can be found pretty cheap but then you need to feel confident with shooting without a light meter, which isn't that hard really. I've went through M8, M9, M-P (Swicthed to 100% film) M2, M6 and today a Leica MP is my daily camera, and I think I'll never replace it. Regarding lenses the Zeiss and Voightlander lenses is good options, but I could also recommend the Summicron 40/2.0 (came with the Leica CL), its a great and compact lens, and they are really cheap! I used one a lot on my digital M-P and it produced some really nice shots:

 

http://www.oneaday.se/je-suis-charlie/

 

At the moment I'm shooting a Summarit 35/2.5 on my MP, also a very affordable lens, and image quality wise its as good as summicrons or summiluxes, but its not as fast.

 

Regarding the development and post processing it takes some time to figure out YOUR process, but from my own POV I spend about the same time developing, scanning as I did when I shot digital, with the difference that I spend the time on sorting/choosing/editing hundreds of photos after a photo walk to settle with 15-20 really good ones. Today I arrive home with 20-25 shots, develop them (15 min) eating dinner while drying, scanning (15 min) and I have 15-20 shots that I'm satisfied with. I'm doing my raw scan with my Epson Perfection Photo V600, which scans 12 frames in one go. The gems I re-scan (if I want to print them) with my OpticFilm scanner.

<p>Alright cool, I will keep shooting and shoot the wedding in two weeks, then I will send the camera in for warranty.</p>

 

<p>If you mainly shoot street photography the Fuji Rangefinder MF cameras is the way to go! I own a Leica MP that I use for Street and a Hasselblad 203FA that I use for Architecture/Nature/weddings. I've had the hasselblad with me to the streets sometimes but its a useless street photography camera really. Its loud and intimidating when shooting, although you can get some nice attention, which might end up with a nice portrait. </p>

<p>Done some more thinking... <br /><br />If I read the other thread right, its a light baffle sitting on top inside the body in the "roof" where the mirror is connected to the body protecting light leaking in from the WLF. It must have came loose on one of the sides, and hanged into the frame, then came lose completely and placed itself on the bottom of the house, nicely aligned though!! :) <br /><br />I'll try to shoot a couple of rolls before the wedding in two weeks and then send it in for warranty I think.</p>

<p>Looked closer on that fabric strip, and when I touched it I saw that its totally loose, its now outside the camera, and looking at that other thread I linked to it looks like its the same part that has came loose.<br>

Should I glue it, where? :) Or just leave it<br /><br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00d/00dvSl-562879584.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="394" /></p>

 

<p>Also have this artifact on some shots (shot with the 110/2.0 what I can see), in some shots its really strong and others I just see it lightly. Could it be the same fabric strip causing this?<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00d/00dvSi-562877584.jpg" alt="" width="688" height="680" /></p>

<p>Hi!<br /><br />Got a 202FA for about one month ago, borrowed a friends CF80/2.8 and shot a wedding, 8 rolls in total, to problems, pictures turned out great! Got my lenses a few days after the wedding (110/2.0 F and 50/2.8 F), shot one B&W that turned out great as well, except for one frame that had a diagonal 10mm wide line across the frame. Thought I accidentally had held something in front of the lens so didn't think about it. Shot two rolls of Ektar this weekend and the first roll had this diagonal line across 8 of 12 exposures (frame 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9)... the second roll I shot that weekend was 100% ok though. <br /><br />Looked at the body today without lens or back attached, did a 30 sec exposure to be able to look into the camera (not sure how to use the Bulb mode yet hehe), and I found that there are a 10mm strip of fabric on the bottom of the house, in the back end, from the one side to the other. Both sides had came loose and one of the sides more than the other one. <br /><br />I assume that this is whats causing the diagonal line, and Im thinking of just using some superglue, to glue it back into place, but just want to check with you guys if you think thats whats causing this for sure? I've got a wedding shoot coming up in two weeks, so if its something more advanced (ive read about a light seal here: http://www.photo.net/mobile/forums/mobile-fetch-msg?msg_id=00dOqd but thats not the same thing I found in my camera...) I really need to get it shipped back for warranty asap... (its a new camera but old stock).<br /><br />So what do you think?<br /><br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00d/00dvSa-562877384.jpg" alt="" width="667" height="700" /></p>

<p>Hi Bjorn! <br /><br />I'm a bit late into this thread, but I recently got my second Hasselblad together with 110/2.0 and 50/2.8 lenses and I'm doing alot of testing atm when it comes to focusing.<br /><br />Regarding your focusing issues as other has said, you should do some simple tests. Put the camera on a tripod, against a flat wall with some good patterns, like a brick wall. Use a wire shutter, pre-fold the mirror, and expose both F2.8 as well as 5.6, 8. See what you get. You need to think about that F2.8 on Middle Format is a very large aperture opening, I would say close to 1.4 in the DSLR world. My 110/2.0 I'll compare to the Leica Noctilux (f0.95) when it comes to nailing the focusing. And you don't have any fancy autofocusing features to trust. So it could just be a matter of that you don't really nail it when you shoot wide open.<br>

I've had rolls where I've been very careful when focusing, and when developing some is bang on target while others are out of focus. (attaching an example)<br>

<br />So I would recommend some more testing! When you've shot your wall I would recommend to shoot along a fence or similar, to see if your focusing point is where you aim. <br /><br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>I'm pretty sure that film will stay, I switched from digital to Film for about one year ago, and the numbers of friends doing the same is climbing. Shoot with my Leica MP and Hasselblad 202FA today, and totally loving it! Never been more fun to be a photographer. Developing + scanning my B&W film at home ofc.<br /><br />All of the shots on the first page is film! <a href="http://www.oneaday.se%20">http://www.oneaday.se </a><br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Hi!<br /><br />I received my 110/2.0 & 50/2.8 today, but I need some filters, interested in both gradient ND as well as normal ND filters, I can see that you've found some adapters to be able to run 77mm filters on the 110/2.0, could you share a link? :)<br /><br />The 50/2.8 seems to use normal threaded filters (86mm?)<br /><br />Best Regards Patrik</p>