jschlach

this can be easily answered with some simple research. for speedotron, the answer depends on how you hook up the heads to their power packs. their manuals are here: http://speedotron.com/Tech.htm

 

you can answer your second question with a search in these forums for "speedotron" .. you will find several well answered threads on the subject. you will also get the same mix of responses here in this thread. it's quicker to look through what's already been posted.

i second the yard stick method. i did something a little different. i focused on an object and measured the distance with a piece of wire tied to the front of the camera. i documented it here:

http://schlachet.net/archives/2006/11/how_to_focus_on_yourself.html

Mike,

 

There are a number of bay area LF shooters. I've been suffering from too-busy/lazy period lately.. sometimes it just takes picking a day and meeting up and going out to break the cycle.

 

I've been part of two false starts for a film-centric camera club in the area. Maybe we are just too few and far between?

 

I would try maybe the SFBAS group on flickr. They organize outings. I've been out once with some flickr folks. I hope to go again, a small group is good motivation for me.

What about the Speedo monolights? The Force 5 and 10 can use the black line accessories from what I've read.

where will your podcast be when it's available?

<p>I am also on the virge of a lighting purchase. I rented the Travelite 750s (two of them with umbrellas) and a Speedotron 2403CX with two 1200w-s heads (the 202VF model). I also rented a 3'x4' chimera softbox. Nothing really beats renting the equipment and using it where you plan on using your final gear!</p>

 

<p>I found everything very rugged. The Travelite 750 did very well.. I was doing head and shoulder portraits with the sofbox, 2.5' from the subject. The Travelite got me a reading of f/22. I was shooting 4x5 Polaroid (metered at ISO 50). With the 202VF at full power, the subjec actually felt a flash of heat :) The reading then was f/32. Wow.</p>

 

<p>I also compared the Travelite 750, one of the 202VF heads, and my existing light, a Novatron 240 w-s head. I posted my experience and data on my blog.. links: <a href="http://schlachet.net/archives/2006/11/rental_equipment.html">here</a>, <a href="http://schlachet.net/archives/2006/11/flash_power_meter_reading.html">here</a>, and <a href="http://schlachet.net/archives/2006/11/brolly_bounce_comparison.html">here</a>. maybe not super scientific, but I wanted just rough comparison.</p>

 

<p>I planned on writing more about my experiences but never got around to posting them on my blog.. In general I found wearing gloves (cheap gardening work gloves) helped a lot when assembling/tearing down the softbox. The Speedotron heads have this "focus" system ring that you turn to move the speedring mount forwards and backwards. I never felt the need to use it (and forgot to measure the change when it was all the way out and in.. should have done that).</p>

 

<p>The Travelite system was suggested to me by someone who's owned them for 10 years with no major problems. I think most of this modern lighting gear (the good stuff, not the cheapo sets) are built to last. I compaired my cheap Novatron kit umbrella to the umbrella that came with my rental kit. The rented umbrella reflected nearly half a stop more of light. So little things like that really do matter.</p>

 

<p>I wanted to try both a monohead system and a pack-and-head system so I could compare how using the two systems felt. If I had a studio to work in, I would definitely go towards the Novatron system I rented. It is super rugged and 2400 w-s is a lot of power. However, I am mainly wanting a single light and softbox to work with, so I am leaning towards the Travelite.</p>

 

 

Good Luck,<br />

Jason

I would try the larger camera show in San Jose -- at http://photofair.com/

a quick <a href="http://www.google.com/search?

q=%22ring+flash%22+examples">search on the net</a> shows some pages with

examples. looks like the very <a href="http://www.dcresource.com/Ringflash/

ringflash_review.html">first hit</a> on google shows some clear examples of with/

without ringflash. there are lots of experienced people on p.n, but a lot of answers you

cana quickly find yourself with a simple web search.. just some advice..

macgregor,

 

after lots of reading/drooling i too just took the plunge into 4x5. i picked up a sinar f at a camera show. i've been shooting polaroid sheet film so far, but everything i've read about and tried came out just how i expected. perspective control, bellows compenstation, the works!

 

are you using rubber or hard plastic trays? i want to jump right into shooting on ilford delta, my current favorite film.

 

as a first timer, i strongly recommend the "user's guide to the view camera".. its great for me; explains the movements, lenses, etc.

 

the only hard part is realizing your enlarger/scanner/tanks/trays aren't suitable for large format :)

jonathan,

 

i just turned 29 this month but definitely understand what you're saying. i shoot with a late model pentax 67 and i love it. i also use a 1950's rolleicord v, and i just picked up a sinar f 4x5 camera.

 

my career is in the computer industry and i get very technical/hard core at work. my greatest passion is photography, though, and getting elbows deep into manual process with film, developing, darkroom work.. it really brings a balance to my life i think.

 

i'm a member of a local camera club.. of which there's one other guy my age but most memebers are much much older (one guy said he first picked up a camera in about 1930!) and they all shoot digital.

 

i look at it this way.. everybody is dumping their film gear which makes it a buyer's market. i love film and older cameras and i do it for me, not them.

 

cheers,

jason

check out <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/tables2/rawchem.html">digitaltruth's raw chems page</a> for pmk pyro times. i think they are suggested starting values (they mention Tri-X at asa 320, 7 minutes with a 1+2+100 solution). i also found pyro to give thin negatives, i guess it really takes some tweaking to get the results you want. definitely try it out first on a test roll/sheet..

i cut my negatives to fit the plastic sheets i put in my 3 ring binders, since that is my priority (i don't scan every negative).. so consequently, my negatives hang over the edge. so i try to be very careful about it. i've been meaning to buy this one guy's carrier, even though it will have the same issue. i would cut my negatives shorter to avoid the problem, but i hate having multiple sheets for a single roll of film. it's kind of annoying storing 6x7, since it spills over to a second sheet. but what can one do? :)

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~dougfisher/holder/mfholderintro.html

putting the speed between X and 1000 makes the camera stay open without holding down the shutter button or cable release. the only down side is you have to turn the knob to release it. i dont remember if i've used it with MLU or not. me personally, i just use a locking cable release. probably best to use that and MLU so you never touch the camera during shutter open/close.

 

does camera/mirror shake do much during a 13-15 minute exposure (assuming the camera is still otherwise)?

thanks for the offer! i signed up.