hans_janssen1
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Posts posted by hans_janssen1
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How fast is the write-speed of your camera?
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On my F90, same camera, I don't have that problem and it works the same as on my digital camera's.
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I had this lens and this is normal. The shift of the focusring is only to stop the movement during AF.
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All DX was gone in one month after I bought a D700. Sigma 10-20 was replaced with a Sigma 15-30 and the Nikkor 17-55 with a Nikkor 28-70.
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Serial numbers belong to a serie, so it could be possible to have two different lenses with the same number.
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I had the same problem with a D2h and with another 'warranty' repair(with a new lens the blocking screw was not there and damaged a lever) the camera was open and they replaced the shutter for only the price of the shutter and the problem with the first exposure was solved.
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I never have a battery in the camera, but only in the grip, So my grip is glued on my D700 for 8 years.
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Look in the frontlens and make a picture: when the mirror goes up you will see it moving(light from the viewfinder-black-viewfinder).
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I never have a battery in my camera, because it is easier and quicker to change the one in the grip than the one in the camera.
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I'll never have battery in the camera. It's is easier to change the battery in the grip than to disconnect the grip and change the one in the camera.
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'Mirror lock-up' is a photographic mode to prevent vibration from the moving mirror, click 1-> mirror-up, wait till the vibrations are over, click 2-> shutter opens and close and mirror-down. On all my Nikons I had a sensor cleaning function (CCD cleaning) in the set-up menu, click 1-> mirror-up and shutter open, cleaning, click 2-> mirror down shutter close.
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Not all setting go back to 'factory default' when you do a reset, you have to check all settings and put on the starred choice.
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<p>In about 35 years of experience you were right, but the last years things are changing.</p>
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<p>It doesn't affect the AF, that is before focus screen in the bottom of the camera and the light comes from the piggy back mirror. It can affect the metering, because that is after the focus screen.</p>
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<p>ng ago I did a test with a D700 and a D800 and a 70-200 II on a tripod and printed the result on 24x30and with a normal view there was no difference, with your eye on the print the was some difference(because you wanted to see it???).</p>
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<p>The aperture determines the amount of light that goes to the sensor and has nothing to do with fl and sensorsize. f8 + 3200 is the same as 5.6 + 1600. The dof has nothing to do with the exposure triangle, but is a side effect.</p>
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<p>What does the manual say about this? I don't know about Nikon of that generation that have these things, but I work with a D700.</p>
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<p>The 16-85 is the best choice, with the 24 - 85 you have to change very often with the focal length break in the middle working range.</p>
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<p> I was very satisfied with my Sigma 15 2.8.</p>
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<p>A flash is what the name says: a FLASH........</p>
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<p>The rubbers need to be removed to open the camera.</p>
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<p>Nikkor AFs 24 85 VR I have the old one and I use that as standard when I don't realy need the f2.8. The new one is better than the old one and I'm always surprised by the sharpness of the pictures.</p>
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<p>Don't take your camera equiment in and out aircon airea's.<br>
Normaly you see condensation in the viewfinder. Disconnect your lens and look through it and do you see any condensation in it?<br>
put the camera on LV and on a tripod and look on the screen what you see: this must have the same 'not clear' as the pictures you take.<br>
Use only one focus point, the one you want.</p>
Setting Nikon D80 to DPI 300 for print
in Nikon
Posted
DPT settings are usefull for PS ed for giving you the printsize, but don't change anything at the real file size.