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tom_montemarano

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Posts posted by tom_montemarano

  1. <p>I agree that it is due to photographer movements. <br>

    With my Maxxum 7 film camera. I was able to use my Minolta 100mm f/2.8 with AF down to almost 1:1. My method was to use the center AF sensor (the f/2.8 "X" sensor) in AF-C mode, and slowly rock back and forth (towards and away from the subject.) By doing that I controlled all of my random motion and the camera was able to lock on and track the subject. When I liked the composition, I would release the shutter, and the Minolta ring flash would freeze any camera or subject motion. It worked very well.<br>

    Unfortunately, I have not been able to do that with either my KM-7D or Sony A700. The KM-7D doesn't have an f/2.8 sensor so doesn't always lock on quickly. And both cameras cannot track my motion. When I change direction from moving towards to moving back (or vice versa) the AF hesitates and loses lock. It seems that the same space aliens who drew the Nazca lines and built the pyramids must have designed the Maxxum 7 AF system, and when they left this galaxy the technology left with them :^(<br>

    Tom</p>

  2. <p>The mirror flip was the standard on Minolta AF cameras that had DOF preview (at least the xi, si, and 9). It was also not possible to adjust aperture when DOF preview was pressed. The DOF preview was changed on the maxxum 7. With that camera the aperture would stop down without the mirror flip, and aperture could be changed while stopped down. <br>

    tom</p>

     

  3. <blockquote>

    <p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=823431">J. Bradley Deal</a> , wrote on Jan 27, 2012; 01:44 p.m.</p>

    </blockquote>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>Does anyone feel the 700 or 800si are anymore or less durable than the Maxxum 7? The only flash issue would be HSS. M Honers website did not list that as enabled on the Maxxum 7.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>The 5400xi flash is not a HSS flash. You would need the 5400HS flash. Either one would work on the Maxxum 7 in TTL mode up to normal sync speed. The 5400HS would work at any shutter speed using HSS. And both would work in "old fashioned" wireless.</p>

    <p>"Old fashioned" wireless is limited to 1/60 sec shutter speed (and I think 1/45 in ratio mode). The Maxxum 7 can do that. However, it can also use "new" wireless up to normal max sync speed (1/250 sec) and HSS wireless up to the max shutter speed of the camera (1/8000 sec). "New" wireless and HSS wireless require using one of the HSD flashes (3600 HSD or 5600 HSD.)</p>

    <p>It is important that you mount your flash on the camera when setting the Maxxum 7 to wireless, particularly when using a formerly owned camera. If the camera had last been used in wireless with an HSD flash, it could still be in "new wireless" mode. Setting wireless with an older flash mounted on the camera resets it to "old fashioned" wireless.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

    <p> </p>

     

  4. <blockquote>

    <p>3. I'll be using some old MF lenses (Vivitar 1 70-210 zoom, Makinon 135 mm, and getting a CZ Jena 180 Sonnar later). How is the MF ambient metering on Sony? Need more or less the camera to measure light while going full manual.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>In addition to needing an adapter as previously noted, most a-mount OVF cameras can have difficulty metering with manual focus NON-Chipped lenses (i.e. no electrical connection to the body.)</p>

    <p>For example, I use manual focus lenses occasionally with my Sony A700. The metering is fine until I try to use an aperture of f/5.6 or smaller (larger f-number). Even though the camera meters stopped down, it is necessary to dial in compensation (or shift the metering index in manual exposure) as I stop down to f/5.6. And the compensation changes as the aperture is stopped down further. It does seem to be constant for each f/number regardless of light, so a table of values is possible.</p>

    <p>But unless you have a very special lens and the registration distance of its normal camera is greater than that of the a-mount, or it is an M42 lens, the whole process is probably not worth the bother, especially for a business (as opposed to a hobby). The one place I have found it useful is for using my manual focus Minolta macro equipment (bellows and bellows lens.) In that case, since I don't need infinity focusing, I took a third party MF to AF adapter, and drilled out the "infinity" lens.</p>

    <p> I have not tried using an external exposure meter and dialing the shutter and aperture in Manual exposure mode. But if you use an adapter with an "infinity" lens, usually just a cheap single element 'x' power teleconverter (or as I like to think of it a 'soft focus' adapter), knowing the actual aperture is going to be a guess. Since I use mine with the bellows set up, using an external meter is not what I want to do.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <blockquote>Recent reports say that cRAW has been removed as well :(</blockquote>

    <p>If you compare the file sizes of A77 raw (approx 25MB from imaging resource), A900 raw (approx 35MB) and A900 CRAW (approx 24MB), since both cameras are 24MP cameras, you should come to the conclusion that Sony only removed the "c" from "cRAW" but removed "RAW" raw. So at least now the controversy over which is better cRAW or RAW becomes moot.<br>

    Tom</p>

     

  6. <blockquote><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=6700767">Steve Smith</a> , Aug 09, 2011; 11:03 p.m.

     

    <p>I may have gotten lucky. I found a camera repair shop that says they can repair my Maxxum 9. They evidently have spare parts and/or "donor" cameras. Thanks for all the responses.</p>

     

     

    </blockquote>

     

    <p>Steve, please report back on the job they did, and give us their contact info.</p>

    <p>thanks<br>

    Tom</p>

     

     

  7. <p>Be sure you look at all aspects of which ever Sony camera you plan to buy. Sony still has a habit of not quite getting everything right. For example, with the SLT and latest SLR with live view, there has been reported an extra delay when using flash. That may or may not matter to you. It remains to be seen if Sony will address that in the A77.<br>

    When using a studio flash without Sony's wireless controlwith the SLT, the EVF brightness is based on the exposure you would get without flash (black). The cameras don't have the ability to change the EVF to non-exposure simulation. There is a work around which I find humorous (lift up onboard flash and cover flash lens.) I expect that will be fixed on the A77 since the mockups show a PC connector. People who have both usually praise the Nikon flash system and sometimes complain about the Sony flash exposure - hopefully will be improved. And auto focus of Sony cameras has needed improvement. There has been some in the latest cameras, and hopefully that will continue with the A77.<br>

    tom</p>

  8. <p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=502110">Ilkka</a> wrote:</p>

     

    <p>"Pellicle mirror camera is SLR because it has one lens and reflex viewing through that lens. There is nothing to consider, it is a fact."<br>

    But the Sony SLT does not use reflex viewing. The mirror is only for the PDAF sensors.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

    <p> </p>

     

  9. <p>The only reason I would consider a NEX is to adapt my manual focus lenses and particularly my Minolta auto bellows III and bellows lens for digital use. However, since there is no real flash system with the NEX I couldn't use my ring flash which I do use for macro.<br>

    Interestingly, the e-mount video camera (don't recall the model number) does have both an EVF, a Minolta style flash shoe and an ISO flash shoe (I think that's a cold shoe), but can't take stills in raw mode (unfortunately). </p>

    <p>It just seems like Sony doesn't like to make a tool that is completely suited to the job, maybe a NEX7 will trade off size for practical features.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

     

  10. <p>Craig wrote:<br>

    "Given the limited info offered by, uh, "Sony," I'm not sure everyone is even frantic or happy about the same issues. If they are using a translucent mirror, then they will have an OVF, won't they?. That doesn't preclude a rear (or other) panel evf. But you don't need a mirror if you are going to solely an evf."</p>

    <p>The "translucent" mirror only reflects the image to the AF sensors. It's purpose is to allow Phase Detect Auto Focus during live view and video. The photographic image and viewfinder image is transmitted through the mirror to the main sensor which provides the image to the EVF. The Sony translucent design does not allow an OVF, and the photo is always taken through the mirror.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

    <p> </p>

  11. <p>Tell him to be sure NOT to press the lens release button while he is mounting the lens. I used to press it and found that it is possible to turn the lens a little too far and make intermittent contact between the lens/camera contacts. By not pressing it the camera lens lock pin will engage at the correct point. The Minolta service manager confirmed that I should not press the lens release while mounting a lens.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

     

  12. <p>Base on the diagram in the dpreview A700 review, the f/2.8 sensor is a horizontal line sensor. That would make it more sensitive to near vertical lines of contrast. There are also a series of f/6.7 sensors arrayed as a '#' i the center which are sensitive to both horizontal and vertical lines, although at less precision than the f/2.8 sensor.</p>

    <p>Complaint on - I never understood why Sony had to make things "better" with that design rather than reusing the double cross of the Maxxum 7 which had an f/6.7 "+" and a superimposed f/2.8 "X". That worked well regardless of orientation and was really fast and accurate when using f/2.8 or faster lenses. --- Complaint off.</p>

    <p>Tom</p>

     

  13. <p>If you are in the U.S., there are a few used Minolta 100-300 APO lenses on www.keh.com. For example one in excellent condition with caps, hood, and case for less than $200 is listed at the link below.</p>

    <p>http://www.keh.com/camera/Minolta-Maxxum-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-MA07999072148R?r=FE</p>

    <p>About 70% of my lenses are from keh, and generally their rankings are very conservative. Nice thing about using Minolta Maxxum (or Sony) lenses is that you don't have to worry about compatibility. I had to go through the rechipping exercise with a Sigma 135-400 lens in 2000. If that lens needs to be rechipped again, Sigma is no longer able to do it . Additionally, my other Sigma lens failed when the internal AF gear was stripped after I had used it for a couple of years with my Maxxum 7. Even though I have been tempted by some of their unique lenses, I no longer choose to use them.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

  14. <p>I have both an A100 (converted to IR) and an A700. I chose the A700 because it had a similar User Interface to the old Minolta Maxxum/Dynax 7 (my favorite camera) and the KM7D (almost identical UI to the 7, but with some omissions and quirks.) When I use my A100-IR, the difference in features and and UI is very obvious and somewhat uncomfortable.</p>

    <p>With that as background, regarding the differences between an A700 and an A550/A580 and my recommendation -- If you had an A700 and used its features and really wanted its UI, then the only thing available would be a used A700 or an upjump to the A850/A900. </p>

    <p>But since you are coming from the A100, the 5 series cameras would be a good bet and offer you LV. However, you should really compare the features of your A100 against the 5 series. Some features of the A100 were not included in the A550. Check the dpreview reviews and specs and download the operating manual to compare with how you use your camera. If you can't find a feature described in the manual - assume it doesn't exist. Only you can say if the missing features would be an issue or not, and if the addition of the newer features are what you want. Some of the removed features were returned with the A580, but there appear to be some flash quirks (slightly longer delay from shutter press when using any flash) which may or may not bother you. There has also been a very recent thread on dpreview where an A580 user had some problem with a Sigma HSM lens in a specific LV mode on the A580. He was going to follow up with Sigma to see if they knew if a chip update would fix the problem.</p>

    <p>Unfortunately, I am in the position of having been spoiled by the Minolta/KM/Sony 7 series cameras and take advantage of the features and UI (actually I was slightly disappointed with some of the UI things that Sony changed on the A700 compared with the 7 and 7D, but they also fixed some of the issues with the 7D). So if I had to replace my camera there is no easy path for me to take except Sony FF.</p>

    <p>Good luck with your decision</p>

    <p>tom</p>

     

  15. <p>According to page 59 of the HVL-F58 Flash User Manual, when using the A850, to use the 58 as a controller with either the 56 or 36 as remote you must set control mode #2 on the 58.</p>

    <p>For the A700, you cannot set the 58's control mode to Ctrl2, so can only use the 58 to control another 58 or a 42, not a 56 or 35. If the 58 is set to ctrl2 and you mount it on the A700, the flash will reset to ctrl1.</p>

    <p>If you want to use both flashes with the A700, the only way is to use both as remotes with the camera's built in flash being the controller. To get ratio, you can adjust the distance of the remotes to the subject.</p>

    <p>The instruction manual for the 58 is confusing variously identifying the control modes as ctrl1 = ctrl+ and ctrl2 = ctrl. The mode is also set in the flash custom menu under C03.</p>

    <p>Hope this helps.<br>

    tom</p>

     

  16. <p>Tim,<br>

    I believe I remember you from the Yahoo Minolta group. Good to read your posts again. </p>

    <p>I am disappointed because I was looking for an upgrade to the A700, and as I mentioned above I have concerns about the SLT. However, I will keep using my A700 and KM7D as long as they work. I have a nice collection of lenses and flashes and don't look forward to switching brands. I will also try the SLTs at my local Sony Style (if they ever get one in), to see how I like them or not. When a 7 series is released I will check it out also. If necessary and possible I will buy used A700/A850/A900 to keep things going. There are features of those models that I use that aren't in the A560 or A580.</p>

    <p>But, unfortunately, there may come a time if things with Sony don't work out when I will need to consider another brand. I did back in 2000 and the Maxxum 7 kept me in the fold. But since then, I have not paid much attention to anything other than a-mount cameras. I will have to start learning, just in case.</p>

    <p>tom</p>

  17. <p>I have a question. I don't know if what I am seeing is important in the scheme of things, or is not.<br>

    After I read the dpreview discussion on ghosting, I also saw that they had added a raw shot to their camera comparisons (their standard "raw studio shot"). I looked around at that shot in general and using their 100% comparisons. I compared the A55 with the NEX5 and the A550. In those comparisons, it seemed clear to me that the A55 was not as sharp as either of the other two cameras. As I looked further, I saw what appeared to be a band of low contrast where there were brights over darks. Not separate images like ghosts of street lamps, and not only where brights were blown out (for example the goldish bands on the bailey's bottle label.</p>

    <p>I recall that there have been discussions that xyz had lousy IQ compared with abc at 100%. I did download some of the dpreview shots and looked at them at different magnifications, and the bands and reduced sharpness was obvious at lower magnifications. I did try to resharpen the images to see if I could improve them using a few different methods, but nothing really helped and some just "enhanced" the bands.</p>

    <p>For video and small prints, I don't expect that the differences would be noticeable. But when people say they can't wait to use their G lenses or CZ lenses on such a camera I wonder why. If the camera limits the sharpness, what will the super sharp lens bring? And all of the shots so far are with new cameras. What happens when a fine layer of sticky dust starts to coat the mirror (I normally use my cameras for more than a couple of years)? For a 3 and 5 level camera or a second travel camera, again, I don't see an issue. For a 7 or 9 level (with their expected price tags) what's the attraction for a camera that shows it is not as sharp as an earlier model DSLR?</p>

    <p>I respect the opinion of the posters on photo.net. This is a big issue for me since I have been replacing my moderate priced lenses with premium glass (because I do see a difference.) What am I missing?<br>

    thanks<br>

    tom</p>

    <p> </p>

  18. <p>Regarding Flash exposure power -<br>

    Based on the user manual there is no direct power setting for the onboard flash. Some Sony external flashes do have power controls.</p>

    <p>However, as Bill mentioned, the camera does have flash exposure compensation. On Sony cameras that is used for either the pop up flash, an add on flash, or wireless flash. Since flash comp is limited to +/- 2ev, that would allow 1/4 power.</p>

    <p>There are two ways to get flash comp. The first is just using exposure comp which affects both ambient and flash exposure. The other is the flash comp control which affects only the flash. They can work together.</p>

    <p>For example if you wanted to use +1 ambient comp but no flash comp, you would set exp comp to +1 and<br>

    flash comp to -1. I don't know if you can get -4ev flash comp by setting -2ev exp comp and -2ev flash, but I think that would have limited use.<br>

    (note - In the 7 level and higher cameras, Sony usually has an option to separate flash comp from ambient comp, but who knows if they will continue that practice in a hypothetical A77)</p>

    <p>tom</p>

     

  19. <p>Kevin B. wrote:</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>It appears its official, the A560 released original release in Oct is moved to early 2011.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Actually it looks more like good news:<br>

    From Imaging Resource:</p>

     

    <strong>Sony USA: A560 delayed, A580 coming to US market</strong>

     

    <p>http://www.imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1284138451.html</p>

    <p>It appears that the demand for the NEX sensor has overwhelmed the production capability, so the A560 is delayed, and the A580 which wasn't going to be released in the US, but which uses a different sensor, will be released in the US this Fall.</p>

    <p>Tom</p>

     

  20. <p>I don't have that lens, but I have the A700 and the Minolta 100-400 lens. Going back to the Maxxum 7 days, I found a technique that helps me when I am using a long focal length on a small subject.<br>

    First, the problem -- With long focal lengths DOF is very small. Usually the lens is not near focus and the subject may not even be visible in the VF. When you try to lock the focus, the camera doesn't know which way the lens should focus. For example if the bird is near infinity, but the lens is focused shorter than that (and the subject is seriously out of focus), the camera may start to hunt either to longer distances or closer distances. If closer, it could be a long time before it cycles all the way in and then out to the bird's distance. But then, due to the shallow DOF, the camera passes through focus very quickly, and you may not have time to locate the bird over an active AF sensor and focus is missed.<br>

    With older screw driven lenses, I use the AF/MF button on back of the A700 (and higher bodies) to prefocus as follows.<br>

    Have the camera set to AF-C,<br>

    I prefer to select a "local" AF sensor rather than using "wide". The center one is the easiest one to use because it is a cross sensor.<br>

    Then press (and hold) the AF/MF button on back. That puts the camera in manual focus.<br>

    Then rough focus the bird and place the active sensor over it.<br>

    Half press shutter<br>

    Release the AF/MF button and the lens will snap into focus and track the bird.<br>

    press shutter all the way when you are ready.<br>

    Actually doing the above is much faster than reading it and when I'm shooting birds or other small wild life, I usually bring the camera to my eye with the AF/MF button already pressed, and very quickly get into a rough focus.<br>

    With the 70-400 SSM, I believe that you can do the same thing without having to use the AF/MF button, but I am not sure how that works.<br>

    tom</p>

    <p> </p>

  21. <p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=15673"></a>Bill Tuthill wrote:</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>Finally found the page in the DPreview article where they said the two are equally good, with more "tearing" in the Sony, but I guess higher magnification. Certainly Sony has a better lens lineup, and less highlight clipping, so it appears a Sony camera is finally on my buy list.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Bill,<br>

    What camera do you use now? I've been out of touch for a few years. Back then you were using the HTsi.</p>

    <p>Tom</p>

     

  22. <p>Leslie,<br>

    Not sure if you know what the Minolta A-mount 500mm lens looks like. It is a relatively compact mirror lens.</p>

    <p>Also I remember there being some early photos, before the NEX hit the shelves, made at a Sony event using the 135 STF lens. That's also a pretty large lens and the results (after all that's what counts) made quite a favorable impression. So The NEX will be used with all sorts of lenses. And I think that is one of the intriguing things about it.<br>

    tom</p>

  23. <p>A reason for checking with Precision is that I believe they still do the 7D 'first frame black' fix for free (obviously you would have shipping costs). I don't know what they charge for the CF card repair.<br>

    Tom</p>

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