john_clarke9

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your help. I have pointed the camera at a strong flourescent light. When I depress the shutter button, the meter quickly moves a very short distance, then abruptly stops. Surely this indicates some block of the meter?

... john

Hi again,

I bought the Zinc Air (Enerstar) 675, and the needle moves, but only barely. It looks like it wants to move further but is blocked. Has anyone seen this before? What do I have to do to unblock it?

Thanks,

...... john

P.S. The Zinc Air package says 1.45 volts. They were very cheap ($1.25 for 2). I wonder if they're knock offs?

Thanks again guys.

.... john

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your help. It looks like the only way I'm going to be able to find out if this thing works is to get the right battery. Is there a number for the Zinc-air battery? It seems like the bulb on this camera doesn't work. It does lock into place, but doesn't keep the shutter open, when the shutter button is held down. But I don't think that's a big issue. Thanks for the primer on operation. I have not been able to make sense of the dials.

.... john

Thanks again Mike. You've been very patient.

I guess the next question is ........ If I tape this baby up, to eliminate light leaks as a possible cause of overexposure, can I set the camera at specific settings that will ensure proper exposure, so that I at least know the camera will work, if I seal it properly and get the right battery?

..... john

P.S. I expect you meant overexposure for one of the underexposures below?

The Konica C35 light meter is CDS and the meter circuit does not compensate for not having a precise 1.35 volts like the original mercury cells provided. So a weak battery will lead to underexposure while excess voltage (like a 1.55 volt silver oxide) will cause underexposure. However even if the battery has correct voltage the meter could still be inaccurate. If you can get access to a digital multitester check the battery voltage to eliminate the battery issue- it should read from 1.3 to 1.35 volts. For most accurate readings use a meter that has 20,000 ohms/volt sensitivity.

Hi Mike,

Yes. I don't think it works properly. So, if the meter is barely registering, meaning low battery voltage(?); would this result in over exposures, assuming my settings are right?

(I'm trying to get a handle on whether chasing down the PX625 may solve my problem.)

Thanks,

..... john

The seals were bought on eBay and one set on Amazon. Cost was minimal.

 

(which reminds me that I need to install the seals on a NIkon F2....)

Thanks,

.... john

m42dave +1

 

I've actually had decent luck with the precut seals though.

Hi JDMvW,

I wouldn't know where to get them. The only real photo shop near here is Henry's

and they don't sell them.

...... john

If the meter barely registers that would likely lead to overexposure. With battery installed and ASA set for 400 bright sun around midday should make the meter needle move to or close to the 1/650 at f 14 setting.

The B setting is not as useful as it is on cameras with less automation: at the B setting the lens is wide open. I guess that would still be fine for star trails. Bottom line- if you can get it working, the C35 is a great little camera with a sharp lens.

Hi again,

My 'B' setting (at infinity) does not keep the shutter open, as I believe it's supposed to.

.... john

Another note: the C35 has an automatic flash exposure system that allows one to set guide number so when set accordingly it will adjust guide number as you focus. Even an inexpensive manual flash works great. When my family had a camera shop we usually sold a Sunpak 100 flash to go with the C35. If camera is set for flash daylight photos will overexpose because the shutter is set to 1/25 second.

Right OK. But the light meter must be working for proper exposure ..... right?

Overexposure and light leakage look very different - perhaps post an example?

Hi John,

I don't have a sample with me, but the pictures are uniformly washed out. Would this be more typical of overexposure??

........john

Hi Mike,

Thanks again. So, getting the meter to work properly is critical to getting the right exposure?

..... john

Hi Dennis,

Thanks again.

..... john

Hi Dennis,

Yes, the battery may well be a problem. I am not using the PX625, and the meter barely registers. Tell me. I've heard that the camera will work in some respects without a battery. Is this true?

...... john

Hi Dave,

Cotton crochet yarn? Who'd a thunk it. I'm pretty sure the over exposure is due to the seal. You think that maybe I used the wrong settings? Yes, I guess that could be.

..... john

Hi Mike,

Yes, OK. To be honest, I think I started taking pictures before really understanding how the camera works, so that could be the 'real' problem here. I can get the diamond shape you speak of, or circle, by changing the settings, but I really don't understand what I'm doing wrt to how the dials work. It seems to me that the bulb does not work, for I can NOT get it to stay open, no matter what I do. (I've read that this is a common problem with this camera.)

Thanks for the light idea. I'll try that.

..... john

Overexposure and light leakage look very different - perhaps post an example?

 

You could try another film with black PVC tape covering the gap between door and body.

Hi John,

An excellent idea. I may just try that.

..... john

Cotton crochet yarn

Hi Dave,

Cotton crochet yarn? Who'd a thunk it. I'm pretty sure the over exposure is due to the seal. You think that maybe I used the wrong settings? Yes, I guess that could be.

..... john

Hi all,

I bought this camera, and noticed that the seals are gummy and flat. However, I took a chance with it, and ended up with badly overexposed images. I've never resealed a camera, so would appreciate some guidance on how to replace them.

Thanks,

........ john

Re light leaks, just test it with film. If they are gummy, they'll need changing. You can do this yourself if you are careful. Make sure you cover up the film aperture so no crud gets on the lens/aperture/shutter. A sharp craft knife and good eyesight are needed to cut sheets of foam that you can get from a craft shop to the appropriate thickness. A good steel rule will help, you'll be amazed how thin you can cut it. Those for the film rails will hold themselves in if you get the thickness right.

Right ..... OK

Thanks.

B&H in NYC has them for $4.59 USD

 

PS - a quick search shows that Henry's in Toronto carries Wein

Thanks......

While the C35 has no meter switch you can minimize battery drain by keeping a lens cap on the camera when not in use or keep it in a closed camera bag. I use the 675 air zinc cell in mine and it's good for at least 3 or 4 months.

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the tips. I've heard the air zinc batteries mentioned in blogs. Where do you get them?

.... john

I see that Wein makes a 1.35v replacement. If it were my camera. I'd shoot a roll and see if it was acceptable with the AG13 first.

Yes, I could that, and exchange that batteries to see if there's any difference.

I'm not sure where to get the Wein batteries here ..... near Toronto.

.... john

Hi JDMvW,

I don't have the AF version, but your history is very interesting.

Thanks,

..... john

Hi Stuart,

Excellent suggestion. One terminal was completely corroded. I soldered it back on and it works beautifully.

(You're right though, it was a fiddly job.)

- Is there a way of slowing down battery drain on a day to day basis?

- Is there a way of checking for light leaks, other than shooting a roll of film? The foam is gummy but not falling off.

Hi Chuck,

The AG13 is "supposed to be" equivalent to the PX675 (which is what was in the camera); although the AG13 is rated at 1.5V as opposed to 1.3+V for the PX675. I understand that, if the battery is not right on wrt voltage, pictures will come out, either over, or under exposed. What are your thoughts?

.... john

Hi,

I just bought this camera, and am not getting a reading from the exposure meter. There was some white material in the battery well, which I cleaned out. The battery that was there was dead, so I replaced it with an AG13. Nothing. I then removed the from retainer ring and checked the 'eye' connections. They looked pristine.

Please give me any suggestions you have.

Thanks,

...... john