frankkinnock

The Olympus is great on paper, but like all MFT bodies, it's hobbled by tne size of its sensor. Until there's a step change in sensor construction, it's just not big enough for lower light use, unless you are very tolerant of noise and missing details.

Max iso in practice is 800.

Fuji is a better bet in my view, although the x-t1 did have an issue with the black rubber peeling off.

My phone had a 4K screen and a better color reproduction than my deasktop PC.

And after transferring images from my camera, the touch screen lets me zoom into details to check focus.

They are getting better all the time.

It's a very nice portrait, but I

don't see anything technically

special. The Fuji X-E1 body used

is well know for producing

pleasing skin tones (better than

the newer X-E2) and the 56mm lens

is a great 'portrait lens' that

has a wide enough aperture to

give a nice out of focus

background.

Then there's a large, soft

natural light source and a pretty

model.

The portrait example you like all

use professional lighting and

support - as other posters have

said.

But they also look heavily

retouched, either with Photoshop

or something like Portrait Pro

that can do the retouching on a

batch basis.

Personally I prefer a more

natural look, but if the examples

in your link is the look you

want, then you'll need to develop

post production skills.

But if you want a more realistic

look, then you can create great

portraits with basic kit.

Window light from tbe side is

good, ideally a shaded widow or

with a net curtain so it's not

too harsh.

Then a reflector to lift shadows.

And a lens with a wide aperture

to achieve the blurred background

effect.

Just my view - but I think you

should try to get as close as

possible to the look you want in

camera, then try photoshop later

for fine retouching once you've

got the lighting and exposure.