benjamin_kim1

I got Fujifilm 250mm F4 few weeks ago but I realize it has bad optical quality. It's not sharp instead of slightly blurry. I had this issue with my Sony 85GM so I sent it for repair.

 

I asked this issue to FB group and they def say it's a bad copy. I got it from B&H but I missed 30 days of returning cause I was traveling and I tested recently. Is it possible to return it for a replacement or should I request a replacement from Fujifilm USA?

Quick note to future readers who may find this discussion before disassembling their lens: The lens does not have to be taken apart that far for cleaning the diaphragm. See the very end of my post.

 

I assume you have version II of the lens. You can tell apart version I from II by the green mark on the aperture ring: Version I has a green ring, Version II has a green "A". Version I also is larger and heavier than Version II. See the picture below, Version I shown on the left, Version II on the right.

 

[ATTACH]1288750[/ATTACH]

 

In order to reassemble the lens your goal is matching three parts in two ways. The three parts are the rear lens barrel (still attached to the camera, picture 5), the double helicoid ring (picture 3 and 4) and the inner lens barrel (picture 1 and 2). The inner lens barrel has to have proper orientation to the lens mount so that the levers protruding from its rear match their counterparts. At the same time the inner lens barrel has to have the right distance from the lens mount flange so that infinity focus can be obtained.

 

I suggest removing the lens mount for reassembly as this will make things a lot easier: Remove the lens from the camera, move the aperture lever to the manual lock position, unlock the breech lock ring, remove three screws visible through the recesses of the breech lock ring, take off the lens mount. Caution: Two spring-loaded steel balls and the EE pin sit under the mount and are lost very easily.

 

You will now have to assemble the three parts in a way that gives you the configuration shown in the two pictures below.

1. The left edge of the recess in the double helicoid ring has to match the yellow index.
   
2. The inner lens barrel has to have proper orientation to the lens mount.
   
3. The distance from the inner lens barrel to the double helicoid ring (first picture) is 6.2 mm.
   
4. The distance from the double helicoid ring to the rear lens barrel (second picture) is 4.7 mm.
   

Pictures and measurements are from a lens with a serial number only 15,000 units away from your lens.

 

You would usually make notes of the configuration during disassembly. It does not have to be this exact setting. Any setting within the focusing range would be fine as long as you remember the parts' positions and take measurements. And you would count turns from this setting until the parts separate.

 

[ATTACH]1288753[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]1288754[/ATTACH]

 

I haven't disassembled the lens as far as you did and hence cannot give you exact guidance on the next steps. It may take you a lot of try and error until you hit the target configuration. From general experience with other lenses I would start with screwing the double helicoid ring into the rear lens barrel a turn or two. Then screw the inner lens barrel in until its slots match the guides of the rear lens barrel. Then futher screw in the double helicoid ring while holding the inner barrel static until the guides slide into the slots. Now check if you can hit the target configuration. No? Try again but alter one of these parameters: Starting position of double helicoid ring, number of turns for the double helicoid ring, starting position of the inner lens barrel, number of turns for inner lens barrel. The threads usually are multi-start type and that's why starting position matters.

 

Next restore the lens mount, seat the front lens assembly into the inner lens barrel and restore the focusing ring. Check if infinity focus can be obtained. The shop would use a calibration device called a "collimator" for doing that. As it's very unlikely you have one available, use some sufficiently far target (moon in a clear night would be perfect) and a viewfinder magnifier. If infinity focus is just a little bit off, reposition the focusing ring (you would usually mark its exact position during disassembly). If it is far off you haven't hit the target configuration (or my measurements do not match your lens).

 

After completing reassembly, let us know how USD 100 now sound to you ;) (Consider the shop may not even have a copy of that lens to take measurements from...)

 

As mentioned at the very beginning the lens does not have to be disassembled so far for cleaning the diaphragm. My procedure would be: Remove name ring, remove front ring, remove focusing ring (mark its position), remove front lens assembly. Remove lens mount, detach spring from diaphragm lever from the rear. From the front, remove three screws and take out diaphragm base, aperture leaves and diaphragm rotor. Clean and reassemble. The aperture should be adjusted.

 

The diaphragm of the FD 50mm 1:1.8 SC is different from most other FD lenses. It is not a separate unit but part of the inner lens barrel. The FD 50mm 1:1.4 SSC's aperture unit for example can be removed entirely from the front without opening the rear of the lens.

 

Im sorry but I still dont get it.

 

I have no idea how many times I should rotate the focus ring or silver ring with the inner lens at once. Otherwise, I can not put them in one piece.

 

Also, there are two levers but there is no way to use the aperture ring to activate it.

What is the serial number of the lens?

315708

I was trying to fix the aperture cause it was sticky but now, I'm not able to assemble all at one piece. It seems to be a simple work that I need to screw two pieces at once at a specific degree but I can't put them together.

 

I tried to find a manual assemble this but I couldnt find anything since nobody ever disassembles every part. I really dont wanna send this to a repair shop because they want me to charge $100 for a simple job. I just need to find a way to rotate.

 

Any information about assembling Canon FD 50mm F1.8 SC??

 

 

 

 

 

I've been researching about the permit and rule about using a portable studio light like Profoto B1, Godox AD200, and more since I wanted to try using it. However, I am not able to get any information. For specific parks like central park, brooklyn bridge park, hudson river park, and more, I got what I need to know. However, I have no idea about other locations and parks. Nobody even mention anything about this. I know that I need to pay for commercial works but what about none commercial uses? I dont see any rules or guide lines about it. I kept sending message to NY office but I got nothing about it.

 

I want to shoot portrait pics with a studio light on the street but Im quite afraid that I cant since I dont know anything about the rule. Where can I obtain information about using a studio light on the street?

Well, I tried to find an internship but two photographers disappointed me since they just want me to clean their house for nothing. Im trying to learn both Photohsop and Capture One Pro from lynda.com for few days to study and improve my skills. Do you think that I should just keep shooting pics?

Well, I graudated from BFA Photography major 2 months ago. I wanted to shoot fashion/portrait photography but Im still having problem with retouching and I doubt my fashion/portrait skill. In fact, I never learned anything about fashion/portrait buy myself. At least I spent 5 years to shoot portrait without purpose but fun.

 

Today, when I checked the facebook group, I saw a young guy who is 19 years old posted portrait pics on the group and I shocked becasue he had much better retouching and portrait skill artiscally and technically. Few people that I heard didnt learn and studied from college but they shot pics for fun. Now, they are getting a lot of money for shooting portrait and fashion pics in NYC. Their pics look better than me.

 

At this point, Im seriously feel gloomy and Im quite lost about what Im going to do. I wanted to shoot fashion/portrait but my skills isnt improving that amatuers are now better than me. Im highly talented for fine art photography but in order to earn money for living, I need to have another work: fashion/portrait. People told me to keep shooting pics but I highly doubt that Im doing right. It is true that I never learned fashion/portrait properly but other people who never learned photography shoot much better than me.

 

What am I suppose to do? I might gonna end up as a normal photographer who shoot pics for nothing. This is not what I wanted for my life but I have no idea what to do next.

<p>You guys are being bad. I shot with 4X5 for macro it works. F64 shows the best quality. </p>

<p>Rodeo Joe/ It's possible base on my test with 150mm lens with bellow extension. Do you ever use 4x5 camera before? dof problem? I used it at f45 and it had deep dof. Focusing issue? I have an omni light for that. I already solve most technical problems. And I asking for how to put beetles on air not technical problem unless I want to try specific lighting set up. But first, putting the beetle is the first issue. </p>

<p>John Schrey/ It's not that simple issue. clamp can't even hold the beetle because pin is too thin. and I don't want any part to be shown such as clamp.</p>

<p>I'm gonna shoot macro photos with 4x5 large format camera. I already tested with 150mm lens and it came out great. However, the lighting set wasn't good enough. If I can put beetles on the air, I could try different studio lighting but I have to put them on specific plate since those things have pins on them. </p>

<p>http://thefoxisblack.com/2014/04/15/john-hallmens-macro-photos-of-insects/</p>

<p>Those pics are what I'm trying to do. I have no idea how to put beetles on the air so I can try few strobes together.</p>

<p>Due to bellow extensions and aperture, I have to use F64 so using soft box or other light modifier is not possible. Putting two strobes on each side created nice pic but the beetle was on the ground. If I can put beetles on the air, what kind of light setting can I try unless the strobe provide enough power for F64 with the light modifier</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=381069">Tony Clark</a>/ I know how a soft box is broken down. and why do I have to apologize for?</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1471453">Michael Mowery - New York City, NY</a>/ No I just can't carry more equipments for now. Wrong? Give me a break.</p>

<p>I never try this wireless studio strobe in my life. I rented from my school for 3 days. It was quite impressive tho. I'm going to practice with this equipment and then use these for couple portraits later in spring. Since these equipments are so heavy and big, I can not carry any light modifiers like beauty dish and soft box at all. Are there any alternative solutions for soft box and beauty dish wish portability?</p>

<p>I asked and paid one of my friend to make a logo for my portfolio site, business card, and watermark. Well, the concern is that the logo design is similar no almost same design with Pentax 67ii since I like it and it's symbolic to me. However, I guess it might not be possible to use that logo since Pentax own that design. Will it be ok to use the logo design tho?</p>

<p>I know most informations about 35mm and other format cameras except for medium format cameras: Phase one, Hasselblad, Mamiya, Leaf, and etc. Since I'm a pentax medium format user, it's not that hard to know more about Pentax medium format but I have no idea about those companies at all. There are no infos from B&H. And I thought Phase one is a stand alone company but it seems to be not. Can anyone tell me about these medium format companies specifically? </p>

<p>when I calibrate the printer, if I set the media type differently, will it effect the calibration also?</p>

<p>It's a cheap paper but I love it compare to Moab Lasal matte paper perhaps I can't get the accurate color and density. I made my own icc profile with i1publish pro 2 from my school. Im not sure if I did it correctly or not. I made ICC profile since I couldn't find any ICC profile for this paper. I use Epson 4900 printer. Also, I have no idea about what type of media type it is.</p>

<p>Howard M/ What if I made my own profile with enhanced matte paper and use other type of media within matte and fine art paper, will it be different? Should I re-calibrate with other media type again?</p>

<p>Currently, I tried Epson premium luster, Moab lasal matte, and Kodak professional matte. Epson papers are fine since the printer, Epson 4900, have luster media type. Idk about both Moab and Kodak paper for media type. I usually make my own ICC profile with the calibration tool. One thing that I really wanna know about it is the media type. Few media types can not be use unless I use manual feed. I just use 'enhanced matte paper' media type. Can anyone tell me about the media type exactly? There are several different media type and I'm confuse about it. </p>

<p>Do you think Pentax 645 is worth enough to use for professional works? Well, I know that the price and size is quite huge tho. All I worry about Pentax are flash and AF speed and accuracy. </p>

<p>Im a photography major student from art school. One thing that I love is that I can use equipments that they have. Most of them are Canon(5d mark3) and few Nikon(D750) I used both with flash lights for a year. I really love the quality of FF. Well, it's not totally comfortable since I used Pentax for 5 years. I really feel that Canon cameras have really pool Dynamic range and I don't like the color of Nikon(and customers that I worked for) So Im really waiting for Pentax FF. However, I really not sure that it's worth to buy for professional works. Pentax Flash system is worse than Canon and Nikon I believe... What do you think about it?</p>

<p>Well, I'm a photography student from art school. I still never have my own portfolio site. I know that it will cost monthly. Truth be told, I don't have many works to post so I'm just postpone to create portfolio site. If I do, I'm thinking to make my own site on squarespace with studio, series(art), landscape, portrait, and etc section. I'm using Tumblr as a portfolio site but it's too buggy and hard to make my own setting. I'm not sure if I need it right now or not.</p>

<p>But it already separated tho. I organize folder base on topics. If I do that, then I have to re-create the entire folders</p>

<p>I don't understand at all. </p>