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steven_pink

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Posts posted by steven_pink

  1. I'm pretty positive there is only

    one non-art 30mm f/1.4 for Nikon.

    I bought one on recommendation of

    some people here on photo.net and

    I absolutely love mine. It's tack

    sharp in the center, but the

    corners are extremely soft wide

    open and don't improve a whole

    lot more as you stop down. I got

    mine for one $110 (the paint was

    scratched up and far from beautoful), so I can't complain at all. I have tested the ART

    version, and while I will say

    it's better in the corners when

    you stop down, I wouldn't pay the

    $390 more than I did for the

    improvement.

  2. <blockquote>

    <p>The problem is that the smallish plate, about 1.5" square, allows some fore-aft flexing when a particularly long lens is being held. <br>

    One other caution - do a little online research on the Manfrotto pistol grips - mine failed after about 2 years by not holding the weight any longer, and I've read of others with the same experience. I read that the drooping could be solved with a tension adjustment on the head, but that did not work for mine.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Thank you for pointing that out. I would much rather have a tall monopod with no head than a short one with a head that could cause instability and possibly fail down the road. I feel that for my price range, just a monopod would be the best option and possibly save some money in the process. As far as portrait orientation goes, I typically end up using the lens collar or just hand holding if I need to switch back and forth rapidly, so the head isn't a major selling feature for me. </p>

  3. <p>I'm into sports and portrait photography and I really need a solid monopod that can hold decently heavy glass without slipping (collapsing down). I have an older cheap monopod that I use sometimes, but even semi-heavy lenses like a 70-200mm f/2.8 and my D7000+Battery grip are too much weight for it. My biggest request aside from weight load is height... I'm 6' 4" and my 62" monopod gives me a back ache when I lean over using it all day. So, to summarize, I want a monopod that can hold a decent amount of weight, is semi-tall, and costs under $100. I don't need anything fancy like carbon fiber or a head. </p>

    <p>Thanks!</p>

  4. <p>It's a bit late, but I wanted to thank everyone for their input! I ended up finding a D7000 a few weeks ago at a camera shop for $465 with a battery grip and couldn't pass up the deal. I also ended up winning a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 with the paint scratched off and a small scratch in the front element for only $100 on eBay. I absolutely love the new body and lens! Your recommendations were unbelievably helpful!</p>
  5. <p>I have to agree with the other recommendations of the D7100. It has similar low light autofocus to the D750. If you plan on using crop mode on the D750, you're better off to just buy a D7100 because it's higher quality than the D750 when cropped down to give the same "reach". I'm a sports photographer and the folks here on photo.net talked me out of going full frame not to long ago and I'm SO glad I didn't make the switch. For wildlife photography, I would say a DX D7100 is the way to go. It's a lot cheaper, will yield better image quality than a D750 in crop mode, and it's lighter which is a <strong>huge</strong> plus for hiking and long walks.</p>
  6. <p>Personally, I'm not sure if I would make a change with the 70-200mm f/2.8. If you sold it and bought a new 70-200mm f/4, you're basically paying extra to lose a stop of light in exchange for a lighter lens. Seeing the photos you have on Flickr, I feel like you have the best lens combo possible for your situation. I typically use my 70-200mm f/2.8 and 300mm f/4 on a D7000 to shoot sporting events. Although they start weighing me down by the end of the day, I wouldn't trade the one stop of low light performance for a lighter lens. Also, considering you take pictures of moving kids, that one stop of light from your f/2.8 lens is very helpful when you need to capture motion.<br>

    I would recommend keeping your current lenses (as they're both some of the finest lenses in their focal ranges) until later on if you decide to go full frame.</p>

  7. Sigma's modern quality lenses are pretty

    phenomenal. It makes me sad that their previous

    bad reputation hurts them so badly. I used a

    friend's Sigma 50mm f/1.4 (Not even the new Art

    version) and was blown out of the water.

  8. <blockquote>

    <p> I do recommend the 70-200mm f 4.0 FX lens if you need that much reach.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I already own the 70-200mm f/2.8. I mentioned the gear I travel with most in my original post. </p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>The distortion of lenses such as the 18-70 is easily corrected these days with software. PS and ACR both have easy to use built in corrections for this lens. It should not be an obstacle.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I'm really not too concerned about distortion. As I said, this is just a walk around lens. When I need to do wide angle shots at events (I mainly do event/sport photography), I usually use my DJI drone for an aerial view.</p>

  9. That's some serious distortion... Where in the zoom

    range is it most/least distorted?

     

    Also, does anyone have experience with the

    sigma/tamron 18-50 f/2.8 lenses? There's quite a

    few options there that can be had around $150-

    $200 used.

  10. Thank you so much for all your input! I feel like the

    18-70 is the way to go from what you've said.

     

    About the 18-140mm... I see they're around $200

    used. Is it worth the extra $100+? If I'm going over

    50mm I would typically use my 50mm f/1.8 or 70-

    200mm f/2.8, so the extra reach isn't a big deal for

    me. What else makes the 18-140 better?

  11. Thanks to the recommendation of some photo.net

    members, I recently purchased a D7000 (instead of

    making the leap to FX). My entire lens collection

    consists of FX lenses and I have nothing to cover

    my wide angle and to use for walking around (which

    is very inconvenient). I've been considering the

    Nikon 18-70mm, Nikon 18-105mm VR (which I had

    in the past), and possibly the Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8.

    I'm going to be buying used and trying to spend

    under $200. The 18-70 smokes the other two on

    pricing (a used lens for ~$70???), but is there

    something particularly better about the 18-105 VR's

    optical quality? I don't use VR much on the lenses I

    have, so that's not much of a selling feature to pay

    almost twice as much for. I liked my 18-105 while I

    had it, but I wasn't crazy about how cheap the build

    quality was. I understand the Sigma will give better

    low light performance, but I'm really having trouble

    justifying it over the old 18-70mm.

     

    Can anyone give recommendations based on

    experience? I'm a poor student so cheap is preferred

    as long as I'm not skimping out. This lens is just

    going to be a convenient walk around lens for when

    I'm not using my nice equipment or don't want to

    carry it around.

     

    If it matters, my main gear is:

    D7000 and D90

    28mm f/3.5 (AI)

    50mm f/1.8

    70-200mm f/2.8

    300mm f/4

  12. <p>Option #1 - For low light and pretty long reach, I would recommend a 70-200mm f/2.8. If you look at them used on eBay, you can pick up a Sigma or Tamron version pretty reasonably. The Macro II version of the Sigma 70-200mm performs very well (I can't tell the difference between it and my Nikon 70-200) and it can be purchased for around $500 used last time I checked. The new OS version is currently on sale for $1200 new through Sigma.<br>

    Option #2 - The Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF-S or 85mm f/1.8 are amazing lenses for low light, but I they don't have an extremely long "reach". To pair with either of those I'd get the Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 AF-S VR; it's a great long range zoom lens, but it doesn't have very good low light performance. The total for the 50 and 70-300 would be about $450 used or $800 new.<br>

    I've personally found for indoor sports in gyms with bad lighting I need an aperture of at least f/3.5 or faster. I almost always use my 70-200mm f/2.8 for sports. It's versatile for indoor and outdoor shooting and it can be used under tough low-lighting conditions that kit lenses aren't usable in. The most cost effective option is probably the 50mm f/1.8 + a telephoto zoom of your choice. The 50mm f/1.8 can use a shutter speed 3.5 times faster than your kit lens when you're zoomed in. That makes freezing action in low light is much easier!</p>

  13. <p>Alright, everyone... I got a friend to loan me a D7000 for the past week. I absolutely loved it! It's <strong>SO </strong>much better than my D90! This raises one more question: For a $300+ price difference, does the D7100 offer that much more capability? The one FPS boost shooting in crop mode seems irrelevant to me and the 24 vs 16 MP doesn't seem to make that much of a difference since we're still recording on the same size APS-C sensor. Can I get your opinions on what makes the D7100 more valuable?</p>
  14. I've shot about 20 rodeos. I live in the Midwest and that's pretty much life around here. I understand that may not be a

    WHOLE lot of experience, but I've always been able to produce reasonable results. You're correct in the fact that I've shot

    most of those from outside the ring due to not age and most recent events I've been to have had a professional

    photographer in the ring and didn't want anyone else (which is completely understandable with the nature of the event).

    Sorry I didn't make that clear.

  15. <p>I've never been paid to shoot a rodeo by the rodeo's organizers. I've always gone and covered all expenses myself while selling prints to competitors. I know the organizers are obligated to cover these fees since I'm giving them a CD at the end of it all, but I'm also taking into consideration that they're supplying me with a booth and doing free advertising for me. I'm considering charging them expenses + $300 for the CD for promotional use. Does that seem like I'm shorting myself?</p>
  16. I hate to charge too much to the event organizers considering they're paying me enough to cover my hotel room, gas,

    food, etc. (which I'd normally have to pay myself) I've shot a lot of rodeos. I grew up around rodeos and it's not new to me.

    I know prints are preferred at rodeos, but the event organizers are specifically asking for CDs. I would prefer selling prints

    because I typically make more on them. My biggest concern and reason for posting is, I've never sold CDs at a rodeo

    (only for portrait sessions).

  17. <blockquote>

    <p>As for edge sharpness, this is not necessarily a plus for portrait use. One of the reasons I love using old (and I mean OLD!) lenses is they are NOT sharp as you go away from the center. People spend extra money to get something like the Nikon 105mm DC and Rodenstock Imagon 250mm to get that soft transition like that.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>That's exactly why I'm more and more drawn toward the older Sigma 30mm. It's half the cost of the new one and the soft edges are visually appealing in portrait photography. The fact that I <em>could</em> shoot a landscape with it by stopping down to f/5.6 is just an added bonus. My free time photography is mostly night shots and being creative with light.<br /> I took this last night:<br /> <img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2945/15169462270_9420de74e7_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /></p>

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