stephan_jamieson
-
Posts
15 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by stephan_jamieson
-
-
<p>Your query struck a chord so I did a bit of investigating with Elements 6, a Thinkpad with 2GB of memory and a 343MB TIFF scan of a B&W 645 negative. The upshot is that the Elements organiser displays an "error icon" for the image, indicating that it's too big. I can however open it in the Editor with no problems whatsoever - allowing that, as was mentioned, Elements is not particularly 16bit aware.<br>
Hope this is useful.<br>
Stephan</p>
-
The magazine "Amateur Photographer" published an interview with him a year or so
back. I believe that he said he'd begun working with a Mamiya 7II. Indeed, I believe
there was a picture of him sitting behind a desk upon which lay the camera.
-
This observation may not translate to a 501CM, and I don't wish to insult your expertise, but if my Bronica ETRSi were behaving like this it would mean that I'd left the mirror lock-up in operation.
-
Interesting, my 45mm also has these characteristics. It's also, if I read the serial number correctly, a '98 lens, possibly from one of the first batches.
I bought my camera used so I can't shed any light on the origins. I have to say that it's never bothered me much since images are fine, though as Neil observes, it might become an issue in the future.
-
Perhaps less fortunate than Robert, I have a 3 lens RF system that includes the 135. At some point I need to test to see what margin of focusing error exists. I passed up a number of chances to buy a 100mm and now regret it.
It's a lovely camera, but from a user's rather than a collectors point of view I'd strongly recommend a Mamiya 7. Slightly more expensive, superb camera, wide range of lenses, all readily available. Oh, and did I say "wide range of lenses, all readily available"?
Stephan
-
From what I've seen of the Leica m series macro adapter it's a bit more complicated. The adapter has lenses that cover both viewfinder and rangefinder windows. So the question might be whether placing a +1 diopter lense over each window would work. Anyone?
-
Speaking of backpacks, I did have a close call. I had the camera slung diagonally across my body and was carrying a backpack with a full harness. I reached to release the chest strap but got the op/tech buckle instead...
-
I use the compensation dial. A vote in its favour might be that the viewfinder indicates when it's being used.
-
Yep, probably the vertical shutter release. I've done that a few times as well.
-
You can fire the shutter without film in the camera if you press the m.e. (multiple exposure) button first. Look into the lens as you fire the shutter and you'll get a sense of the lag.
-
Geeky question here, does any one know how to decode xpan serial
numbers? It seems to me the first two characters are the product id
and the next two indicate the year of manufacture according to the
following code:
VHPICTURES maps to 1234567890
So for instance, ER is 1998.
What about the last 5 digits? Bjorn Rorslett says in his review that
he owns xpan #933. Does this mean that the last five digits would be
00933?
-
The specificiations at the Rollei website say the current model is 1.5kg without lens. The Mamiay website says the Mamiya 645 pro tl is 1.345kg including 80mm lens.
-
Not wishing to state the obvious, but is it simply that the advance lever has stuck mid way? Perhaps depressing the rewind button on the base of the camera will allow you advance it fully?
-
Hi folks,
Apologies if you've seen this query elsewhere. I'm curious about
working practices. Many of the more expensive Nikon AF bodies offer a
variety of controls for aperture. When using aperture priority, what
set up do you prefer?
Stephan
getting bronica etrs to shoot 6 x 6
in Medium Format
Posted
<p>If you decide to hold onto the ETRS then a grid focusing screen may help with square compositions. Superimposed on the grid is a large central square, though it's not the full 4.5cm X 4.5cm, probably nearer to 4cmX4cm. <br>
You might also try creating a simple black paper mask and placing it between the prism and the focusing screen. (You'll probably need to assess the effect this has on the light meter.)</p>
<p>Stephan</p>