grant_harris2

<p>Although I love my Nikon Digital camera I would like to get back into film photography.<br>

I was previously a Bronica ETRSi user so am familar with 120 film.<br>

My primary use will be street photography, so which to use Pentax 67ii or Fuji 6x9?<br>

I will be shooting black and white only.</p>

<p>go up the Rockerfeller centre and take cityscapes from there as generally quieter than Empire State Building. If going up either then get tickets on line as saves queing and go up about an hour before sunset as then get shots whilst there is still colour in the sky and street lights are coming on.</p>

Try carrying an RB67 or GS1 for more than an hour and you will wish you had a 645 format camera

Oh dear, I don't think it will as it doesn't appear to be big enough. Are adapter plates available. It seems to be the same size as a Mamiya RB back

I have a Sinar F camera and have just purchased a Graflex 6x7 roll

film back. I haven't received it yet. Will it fit on the Sinar?

The MC series are the older lenses.

Nothing at all wrong with them as long as you check that the shutter is working on short and long exposures and that the optics are clean.

The Metz 45CT1 does not give TTL flash.

If using fill in flash outside I would set the flash one stop lower if sunny and two stops if over cast.

As you can Flash sync at all speeds it does not matter if the Ae3 prism is on or not.

I have used them for many years without any problems, though I do live in the UK and would be straight up to there shop if they cocked up.

If any one reads this that lives in the UK their store must be visited, I have neve seen so much gear in one place, a true Aladins cave. Managed to gets all sorts of bits over the years that I couldn't get anywhere else.

I had the same problem when I bough an etension tube for the bronica, The main thing is that you have to have the shutter cocked, mount it on the body, then remove the lens, then the extension tube.

Thanks to all for the tips, the digital is an Olympus E20 with the Polymer grip so is sizeable, won't fit in my pocket for sure.

I will think over all the points and let you know what I decided on and more importantly how the pictures came out

I am travelling to New York from UK for four days, I am keen to

capture it all on my Bronica.

However I don't want to be loaded down with lenses and only want to

take two from the following:

 

40mm, 75mm and 150mm

 

My first thoughts were to take the 40mm and 150mm, so I get wide

views and close up of details.

Any thoughts on which to take? Or should I just take my digital

camera which will take shots of equal quality when printed at 8x6

I have now found out how to remove the SCA adapter.

I have just purchased a 45 ct5 and a 32 ct4 flash gun second hand.

 

How do I remove the SCA adapter from the bottom of the 32 ct4? I have

tried all methods but it just won't move, I assume that the clip on

the back has to be moved but it doesn't seem to move enough to unlock

it.

 

Secondly am I right in thinking that the 45 CT5 is auto/manual only

rather than having a TTL capability?

I think after reading previous posts and the answers to this one I will forget about the soft focus lens and stick with my trusty softar filter.

 

Thanks to everyone for replying

Have bought an RB67 pro, I want to ge a portrait lens for the camera,

what is recommended.

I have seen some negative responses about the soft focus lenses,

would I be better of using a standard short telephoto with a softar

filter?

It only adjusts in whole stops, it is the sunpak one rather than Metz SCA adaptor

I have a Bronica ETRSi and a Sunpak DX12r ringflash, using this in

TTL mode how do I vary the exposure if I want to bracket exposures? I

realise that I can just change the film speed on the TTL adapter but

this is in large values at the higher end.

If you are concerned about this ther is a device calld a Wein safe sync which drops the trigger voltage to 6 volts.

According to the book "The Bronica Manual" the extension tubes should only ever be used individually and not stacked.

P.S. In answer to your points above..

 

1. Yes you can 'zoom' in using bellows

 

2. yes it will give the correct exposure, no calculations

 

3. The are pricey though can be found at time to time for about 40% of new price, but there are no third party options available.

The only problem with the Bronica extension tubes is that Bronica say they can't be stacked, you can only use one tube at a time.

Although the Bellows and camera are a little heavy, they are not too bad. One advantage of using the bellows is that you have continuously variable magnification upto 2.7 with 75mm lens.

If you want to fill the frame with an extension tube this may not always be possible and because of the narrow depth of field, you don't have the luxury of moving nearer your subject.

 

One thing to be aware of is that using a TTL flash with the bellows requires you to join the PC socket on the Bellows to the PC socket on th camera before the TTL flash will fire. You will need a male PC to male PC lead which are difficult but not impossible to source.

 

If possible try and find some belolows to use before you buy, I think they are superb.

 

Grant

After moving to Medium format a couple of years ao I shoot almost exclusively Slide, except when shooting portraits.

Looking at a slide on a light box, there is just no comparison to looking at a picture.

Also I a positive that a good Ilfachrome (cibachrome) print will always blow away a good negative film print.

If you are getting F22 on 160 asa you really need to move the light further away from the subject if at all possible. If not you can buy neutral density gels to fit over the flash head. Try lee filters in the UK on www.leefilters.com

Or use a neutral density filter on the camera, Jessops do them in Cokin P size at a reasonable cost.

 

 

Grant

The ETRS series has a bank of resistors to control shutter speed.

Get hold of the repair manaul before attempting any changes to it.

 

Grant

In order to use TTL with the automatic bellows, you would need to run

an sync cable from the front of the bellows to the body as well as syncing to the flash. The problem is that if you plug into the sync socket on the body, you will not get proper flash sync as there is no wiring from the front of the bellows with the lens to the back near the body. If you sync at the front of the bellows, you get proper flash sync but, again because of no connection in the bellows, the body will not receive any information.

So, if you could find an double sync cord, you should be able to fire the system and still use ttl for the flash, but you should run a few tests before using for a job.

 

Tamron USA