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don_cameron3

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Posts posted by don_cameron3

  1. <p>Thanks all for the detailed replies. It looks as though I have some experimentation to do, in terms of film, labs as well as home scanning. </p>

    <p>Alan, I am very pleased to see your great results with a $200 home scanner. </p>

  2. <p>Thanks for the help gang. All great stuff. I was expecting better stuff "out of the box" with the lab, but it looks like - as usual - the devil is in the details.<br>

    Another question I have - is there any benefit to me sticking with slide film or should I go over to a negative film? Since it seems the operator judgement is really required for both slide and negative, does the argument of slide vs negative get somewhat reduced?</p>

     

  3. <p>David, thank you for the in-depth reply. I really enjoy the shooting aspect with a film camera, and would really like to make a go of it. It's probably a combination of nostalgia and really wanting to slow down and create art versus just "shoot" a picture. Film helps to force me into this mode of thinking/creating.<br>

    I really like your suggestion about getting a couple of frames professionally scanned and corrected on an Imacon. It will give me an idea of what I can shoot for (pun intended).</p>

    <p> </p>

  4. <p>Hi all,<br>

    It has been 20-30 years since I have done MF film. I have purchased a Rollei 6008 pro and fired off a few rolls. I am really enjoying shooting with it. Got the film processed at the lab in town and got a hi res "econo" scan on a d.lab.2 scanner. The results are crap and I am thinking I made a big mistake. Please see the attached photo.</p>

    <p>In the attached picture, I shot Velvia 100. Sure it has a big green hue, perhaps thats just because the econo scan is uncorrected. But I find the rest of the picture as if it was taken with a instamatic.</p>

    <p>So I am looking for advice. Even when I was using film, I never used slide film. These are handheld shots, but a 1/125 or better with 80mm lens.</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>Edward, thanks for the explanation - it helps.</p>

    <p>QG, thanks for the info on the Zeiss Macro. I see that extensijon tube+macro lens will give me a good range.<br>

    Jeff, you remember my needs quite well, although I did want to shoot 6x6. If I went to 645 I think a lot of problems could be solved - for a lot cheaper. That is still in the back of my mind - but I am not ready to jump yet.<br>

    I am lucky enough that a friend has lent me her 500CM kit to play with for a week. No macro lens, but has a wide range of lenses, extenstion tubes (plus a SWC too!). The goal of this exercise is to see if I *really* need TL metering, see if carrying a handheld meter with "cramp my style".</p>

  6. <p>Thanks all for the info.<br>

    I see the Scheiders start at $2300. A bit much for me (by a long shot).<br>

    Is there a "inexpensive" macro lens that will work with the Rollei 6008? Even if its an older SLX or SL lens, I dont mind stopping down to meter. I am just not sure what will work. </p>

  7. <p>Howdy all. <br>

    A touch of background. I really enjoy using my FF DSLR with my 24-85 1:2 macro lens. But I wanted to get back to film and go with 6x6.<br>

    So I got a Rollei 6008 pro, mostly because of the built in TTL. My camera just arrived, so I loaded it up and went out for a shoot. Did some shots straight with the 80mm lens and really enjoyed the camera and process - yippee - nice to be back.<br>

    Then it was time to put on the 34mm extension tube for some close up work. I composed my shot, but then I felt I was a bit too close, so backed up a few inches and realized I could not focus anymore. I did some experiments and realized that I could only focus when I was from 7 to 8" from the object. In other words the focus range was about an inch. Oops!<br>

    OK, I don't think there is anything wrong with the gear. I think I am misunderstanding a fundamental concept of how extension tubes work and closeup shots. I guess I am spoiled with my DSLR macro lens whereby I can move back and forth to compose all I want and have continuous focus from 6" to infinity (leaving the zoom at a fixed focal length). Is it possible to have this kind of close-up flexability with a MF setup? Uber expensive lens? Bellows?</p>

    <p>thanks for the help.</p>

  8. <p>I have just purchased a 6008 Pro with 80mm and would like to get a wide angle.<br>

    I have searched a bunch about the different lenses available and I am confused about compatability.<br>

    From what I understand there are 3 types of lenses, for the non AF 6000 series cameras:<br>

    (1) non-PQ (identified by no marks on aperature ring) - Meant for 6002, 6003, 6006 - limited functionality on 6008<br>

    (2) PQ (identified by "PQ" on aperature ring) - meant for 6008<br>

    (3) PQS - (Identified by "PQS" on aperature ring) - meant for 6008</p>

    <p>Does this sound correct? Are there other lenses (less expensive) that I can make work with the 6008 Pro?<br>

    So with the non-PQ lens what does it mean by "limited functionality" with the 6008? Metering wont work unless I stop down?</p>

    <p> </p>

  9. <p>Hi gang, me again. I need a little help understanding the Object Image Ratio as written up in the Rollei Closeup manual.</p>

    <p>I am wanting an Object-Image-Ratio of 2:1. So if the size of the little bird is 2cm, it will be 1cm on the film. <br>

    When I look in the table on p5 for lens extension tubes for the 80mm F2.8 Planar, it list the OIR as decimal numbers from 9.33 down to 1.05. I am gussing if I want an OIR of 2:1, I should use Tube 3 (34mm) which will give me an OIR or 2.37:1.<br>

    Is this correct?</p>

     

  10. <p>I posted a question over in the hasselblad forum about moving from 35mm DSLR to MF film for some close-up work - a couple of posts indicated that I should look at the Rollei 6008 for in body TTL. After some investigation it sounds like the 6008 might be a nice camera to move to (and it fits in my price range)<br>

    Anyways, I was reading the Rollei Close-up Handbook and I have a couple of questions.<br>

    (1) what is the least expensive way I can get to 1:2 with the 80mm lens - it looks like using extension tubes is the most cost effective<br>

    (2) ebay has a few extension tubes for approx $200 each, bellows for $300 and the zoom extension tube for $1000 - can I get them anywhere cheaper?<br>

    (3) why is the focus rendered useless with the reversing adapter, requiring bellows or zoom?</p>

    <p>thanks for the info!</p>

    <p> </p>

  11. <p>Thanks to everyone for the help. All of my work is more "close-up" rather than "macro" (if there is such a difference) as most of my photos are no more than 1:2. So I could probably get my needs met with 55mm extension tube.<br>

    I really like the TTL meter of the SL66E - it can be used with a waist level finder. Looks like there is no other 6x6 SLR that has this feature. Too bad.</p>

  12. <p>Right now I use my Nikon digital and film gear with a macro zoom lens for close up work. About 4-5cm from the subject. Small flowers etc. I do it hand held and relatively happy with the results. However I would like to try returning to 6x6 film for this work after a 20 year hiatus. Since this is a hobby I would like to keep the kit to under $1000.<br>

    I have looked at a variety of MF film cameras and scoured the threads comparing the pros and cons, and it has boiled down to SLRs (no rangefinders, TLR or 6x4.5) and the 500CM or the SL66E. From all the various threads, the 500CM is lighter, more accessories available for cheaper, easier to get repairs. But the SL66E has built in TTL and bellows for tilt shift/close up (but is heavy/bulky, limited accessories and more difficult repairs).<br>

    I would like to make the 500CM work with the minimum accessories, as it is smaller lighter which lends itself to my hand held style of photography. So here are my questions:<br>

    (1) with 500CM and 80mm lens, how close can I get?<br>

    (2) with 500CM and a 50mm extension tube what kind of distance can I get?<br>

    (3) I would like to use a waist level finder, but since the 500CM does not have TTL build in, what metering options would be suitable for close up work?<br>

    Thanks for the help.</p>

     

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