andrew_roesner

hello everyone. i've become interested in trying some polaroid image

transfers and would like to try using some of my chromes. i've read

holly dupre's pdf and many of the relevent posts here and i have a

few questions.

 

first i'd like to know if one can contact print a 5x7 chrome on type

809 paper? anyone tried it? and what about putting the negative in

your regular enlarging easel instead of the film holder to expose it?

i've learned that in addition to the 8x10 film holder i'll need a

polaprinter. i've seen the kind that uses the loading tray and film

holder together, and i've also seen what's called a slide printer

that will print a 35mm slide on 8x10. does this device also need a

film holder to opperate and will it process the 8x10 film? if so,

will it process without having to make an exposure in the machine?

 

im going to the store tomorrow to get some type 669 to try in the

hasselblad. i think this might be way too much fun, thanks for the

help!

my most recent ebay acquisition is a 5x7 Eastman clinical camera. I

wasn't particularly interested in the lens and shutter it came with

as I intend to use the camera mostly for pinhole photos. but, now

that I have the lens and shutter i'd like to know a little about

them. first off, im looking for a way to mount the pinholes in the

shutter. the shutter is a very old Compur. "Ica" and "Dresden" also

appear on the front. settings are "T" "B", and "I", speeds are 1-200

and sound pretty darn accurate, and the aperture is 4.5-32. any

general info or comments on the shutter? my idea at this point is to

mount the pinholes in some sort of ring that will screw into the

front like the lens. the opening on the shutter measures about 34mm,

but i'd like to know if there is a correct size label for this

shutter. the only thing i can think of that might fit in there is an

appropriately sized filter but i'd like to avoid knocking the glass

out of 15 cheap filters. being a LF novice, can anyone think of

something more appropriate that will screw into the shutter and that

i could mount the pinholes in? as for the lens i'll certainly give it

a whirl once I get some film but I�d like some general info on its

age, quality, any thoughts really. the lens is a zeiss jena 13.5cm

f4.5 tessar. the serial # is 519539, uncoated as far as I can tell.

it's in remarkably good shape for its apparent age, only one very

small nick on the front element. thanks in advance for your help; I

anxiously await your thoughts and ideas.

thanks for the responses. i was trying to avoid making multiple exposures when shooting in the field for all the obvious reasons, but that looks like the best scenario so far. cheapest too. i'll just have to be VERY calibrated with my exposeures, and from what i'm learning about slide film reciprocity the CC filters. here's a bit of a tangential question, but does such a back exist to use 8x10 film on a 5x7 camera. another way to ask it is could i rig an 8x10 back to attach to a 5x7 camera and use masking of some sort to make the 5x7 picture on the 8x10 film? thanks for the help so far, i'll keep you posted of progress.

i'd like to investigate a method of making contact prints of, say,

8x10 color slide film on 8x10 color slide film, effectivly copying

the film. is this something that people do, or that can be done? i

plan to do it in my darkroom unless this process is available at pro

labs. let me explain the intended application so you can understand

where i'm coming from. i don't own and have never used a large format

camera. i'm going to make a pinhole camera that accepts sheet film,

probably 8x10, and photograph with slide film. if all goes well i

would display the slide as the finished art. of course, i'd like some

way of duplicating the photograph and the first thing that comes to

mind is contact printing. my darkroom situation is b&w only, and cold

light at that, so i don't have the ability to color correct the light

in my enlarger. i do have a light table that happens to be corrected

to 5500K and i've thought of somehow using that. i'd obviously use a

contact printing frame but a concern with that is the color of the

background. am i correct to presume that anything besides perfect

white would influence the color of the copy? aside from that i'd send

the copies to the lab for processing just the same as the original.

any suggestions, concerns, or insight is greatly apreciated!

i bought the same on ebay for $20 and its now a pinhole camera! i don't think they're worth too much, at least i hope they're not. your seal is gold? mine might have been gold at one point but it's papery brown now. if your's is in really, really excellent condition than you might have something. good luck. i'll posting about my new pinhole soon.

thanks for all the great responses. roger, you're right, i'd love to shoot it at 1600 but the shutter i need for hand holding a 500cm just isn't there. after i posted i developed a roll of 12 exposures made at zones I to VIII, with half zone increments between IV and VIII. the development was in xtol 1+2, 20:00 at 24C. compared to an average contrast of .62, the curve was very steep. in terms of densities, values I and II were empty, III was >I, IV was a full III, the curves "crossed" at VII, and i hit the heel hard just past VIII. this amount of contrast, especially with the heel where it is, could be quite beneficial to my vision of how i'd like to photograph a live concert. the toe area will cause all but the most important shadows to fall away in darkness, while the heel keeps the frequent stage lamp in the frame from becomeing a blocked up starburst. in the middle i have LIMITED room to move skin tones around. i'll have a chance to apply my results soon, and if they aren't satisfactory i might give DDX a try. i'll probably give it a try in the future anyhow, but im exhausted with testing now and want a chance to apply what i've learned to art for a while before i decide i need to change something. thanks again for the help, hopefully i'll have some great results to show.

hey there,

 

i've read all the posts regarding this topic at least 3 times each.

im trying to obtain correct time/temp for delta 3200 @ EI 3200. so

far i've used the ilford's suggested time (stock 20C/7:30, also for

10:00), and the massive dev chart's time (1+2 24C/20:00). i've also

tried 1+1 for 20:00 and 30:00 at 24C. for each of these tests i set

my meter to 3200 and made exposures for zones II, V, and VIII. in the

stock test for 10:00, my net densities were; .05 (II), .40 (V), and

1.02 (VIII), which are very thin. in 1+1 20:00 test, densities

were .05, .57, and 1.45. this puts zone II below I, zone V at about

IV 1/2, and VIII at zone IX. this is quite a bit of contrast, but is

useable. the subject i intend to use this film for is concerts which

brings me to my question. because caucasian skin is often placed on

zone VI, when metering the scene should i place my metered skin

(often about EV 7) on zone VI and let everything else fall where it

may? i feel like im missing something on my exposure calculations

because these results leave the shadows a little thin, but that's

ALMOST acceptable because of the subject. any suggestions will help.

would you gentleman care to elaborate for the kids in the balcony:

 

what are the limitations of the leaf shutter, why, and does Wildi's book explain this concept well?

 

whats the problem with focusing close? how is the compensation for this figured into the exposure?

 

as always, thanks again!

hey all-

 

im glad to report that i went over to the local photo shop and got a roll of tri-x 120 just so i could practice loading. i managed to figure it out on the 2nd try! im a little confused because the half stop discussion has turned from shutter speeds to f stops. are half stops in aperture also available? and if so are they useable? thanks again.

 

andrew

i know it's been a while, but does anyone have ANOTHER update to this URL, neither the original nor the update seem to work.

thanks for clearing that up. now that i understand exactly what the "half stop" deal is, i wonder why anyone would EVER do that!?! sounds like nothing good could result. thanks again.

thank you, everyone, for your kind and insightful answers. you've managed to put some of my concerns to rest, only to provide new ones. im glad to hear there are 1/2 stop increments for the shutter speed, but piotr, im a little confused about your comment on the randomness of it. the way i'm interpreting what you said is, for example, if i select the "1/2" speed between 1/125 and 1/250 that the camera will choose either 1/125 or 1/250. this possibility seems very unlikely to me. is it that the 1/2 stop is simply not very accurate?

 

im not as concerned about precision as i might have led on. it's only that i've gotten used to the novelty of 1/3 stop increments. i do, however, plan to test the shutterspeeds of the lens, and i'd like to hear some ideas for doing so. i have a densitometer so i think i'll simply make zone V exposures with all the speeds and see how they match, unless someone has a better way. . .

 

kevin, i'm glad you had something to say, because i'd like to thank you for answering this and all of the other questions in the past. i've come to recognize your responses as being consistantly un-biased, and truthful without being overstated or speculative. these are two qualties that are very valuable to a forum like this one. i agree with you totally on the light meter, and if all goes well i'll have a pentax/zone VI soon. does anyone know of other used sources for this (and quality camera stuff in general) besides ebay? in place of the actual manual i have Wildi's book on the way from amazon. i hope it's knowledge is as thorough as the price is high!

 

im excited about the idea of, as many have written, "slowing down" with the medium format. i've never worked with a totally manual camera. the potential trouble i'll have with loading film and mounting the lens is worrysome, but, rob, you're right in that it will all make sense once the lens is here.

 

thanks for all the help. i'll report back once the lens has arrived and let you know how it went.

ellis,

 

thank you for your pretentious remark; it serves the community well.

i just received my first MF camera in the mail! it's a 500cm with the

a12 back; im really excited. im still waiting for the lens to come

but i have some questions in the mean time. i've figured out how to

work the shutter release, the mirror lock-up, and how to take the

back on and off, darkslide, etc, but i still dont understand some

things about the asa setting. do i need a special tool to change the

number? and, i hope for some reason i'm wrong about this, but the

only reason i would bother to set the asa on the back is to remember

what fim i have in there, in other words, the setting has no affect

on exposure. how then, can i make exposure changes in increments less

than 1 stop? if i'm metering a subject for zone V and the meter gives

me f11 at 1/80th then do i need expose at 1/60th and use N-(1/3)

development!?! after some thought this is the only solution i can

come up with. am i missing something? im looking forward to a simple,

no-brain answer that should have been obvious to me! TIA.

LOOK WHAT YOU'VE DONE NOW!! i'm biting the bullet (and my wallet (what does that mean?)) and bidding furiously on hasselblad 500 cm systems on ebay. im expecting to pay in the $700-$1000 range. i'm really excited! now i have the added headache of carrying that, and my 35mm with all the fixins in a very large backpack along with all of the more traditional survival items needed for 4 days of wilderness hiking. i'm posting a seperate question geared toward packing with all that gear. thanks, or depending on how you look at it, damn you all, for the answers and inspiration!

 

see ya on the trails (or splattered on the bottom of a canyon)!

 

andy

thanks for the answers! the rental is $90 a week, and i'll have it for 2 weeks. i would love to put that toward a camera but then i'd be sitting around my appt. taking pictures of my cats instead of traipsing around canyon country. as for the lenses, is the 80mm:50mm ratio exact or is that a practical aproximation? is there an exact ratio between the lenses? can i expect a viewfinder ala SLR or will this model have a focusing screen? thanks for the help!

 

andy

hey-

 

im an experienced 35mm guy and i'm thinking about renting a medium

format package for a spring break photo road trip. i've narrowed my

choice down to a hasselblad 503cxi, a-12, 80mm set (based mostly on

price). i have NO medium format experience and haven't found any

beginner resources on the net or this site; am i missing something?

if not, can someone explain the differences in comparison to 35mm?

like, how do focal lengths relate? any tricks or ideas (besides

extensive trial and error testing) on how i can use the TTL spot

meter in my nikon to meter for exposure on the hassy? i've found

general info on the 503cw, but how is this different from the cxi

model? any general advice that a first timer would really love to

know but never does!? thanks for the help, i can't wait to share my

work after the trip.

 

andy