kevin7

as a strong advocate of RTFM, i thank you. couldn't find that; it worked (for now). thanks.

so i have 2 sb 800's - pretty well versed in how they work. one of

them upon start up with new batteries has all segments of the lcd lit

up. it did this for a while, then it was ok, now its doing it again.

about to send it in for repair, but was wondering if there are reset

sequences i can try prior? the flash will fire if i hit the flash

button, but not when shutter is released on camera. this issue occurs

whether on camera or not, all contacts are cleaned, etc. thanks in

advance.

 

kevin

not too familiar with this camera, but on the first shot i'll assume you're zooming in tight. are you on a tripod? you have what appears to be some chromatic abberation on the edges of the moon. at zoom with with (most likely) an auto iso setting, this picture or quality is not unexpected. how much do you konw about post processing?

 

the second shot - the camera probably metered off the dominant center object - bright white water. it's exposure tried to make this a middle grey. this made the rest of the photo "dark". boost the levels in photoshop, or add some + exposure compensation when actually shooting.

 

not sure what you are looking for on the third shot.

got mine through cdw i think...try them. the look a bit expensive right now though.

<a href="http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=720650">cdw page</a>

there is no need to use classic black and white filters with a color digital camera. do the conversion to black and white and adjust channels in an editing program. a search on this will yield many useful threads i'm sure.

use a lensbaby.

Wnyone care to guess if CS will support RAW from a d70 when the firmware update is released later in May? Will current d70 users now have this 'new' file type? Does anyone know if this is due to the encryption of RAW that D2X users have deal with?

find a book that includes a CD with tutorials in a movie format. PS 7 for Photographers by Martin Evening is pretty good. there are many others that are recommended - a search here should turn up some threads. there are some web sites that have tutorials as well in a QuickTime format. Haven't stumbled across them for a while - perhaps others can provide URLs.

wayne - thanks. i agree that's better, but not quicker. for proofs, i'll probably stick to my current 4in 6in 320dpi settings in the crop tool. but for final prints, you're output method is the one i'd use. thanks.

wayne, i think you have misunderstood my post. i am referring to the crop tool and what happens when you enter a desired dpi that differs from either the native dpi of the original or the total pixels your have chose with the crop tool. if you have PS CS, check it out. thanks

so i've stumped the board! hmmm...not a big deal since i only use that process for proof send to local costco via my computer. and yes, i'm quite happy with their lustre finish on fuji crystal archive paper - they do direct prints with no adjustments on uploaded photos. can't beat the price for the quality.

i'm sure this has been asked, but a search yielded no pertinent

results.

 

if a use the PSCS crop tool to crop a jpg large file to 4x6 at

320dpi, what interpolation scheme (bicubic smoother, sharper, etc)

does PS use?

 

Situation 1: select the whole image with the crop tool - its

downsizing pixel wise to get to 4X6, but increasing dpi (i believe

organic dpi from D70 image is 240 or 300).

 

Situation 2: select a small section of the image, say 1/3 total image

area - PS would be upsizing both dpi and pixels. (this is answer i'm

most interested in). what is the interpolation scheme here??

 

i am asking b/c i crop to 320 dpi for sending images to a Noritsu

(sp?) printer and am wanting the best results. I'd prefer to avoid

the Image Size menu, but will use it if necessary to have control

over the interpolation scheme.

 

thanks for those that can answer.

 

kevin

anectodally only: the 12-24 is quite sharp edge to edge. used one saturday at a wedding in low light with flash (not the best circumstances, i know). though it was pretty much wide open, the in focus areas edge to edge were great. i'm sure you can find a review on the web - that is if the price isn't prohibitive. i did find that it was too wide for me to justify purchase, but i can always go to dad's discount rental house!

greetings - i'm shooting a wedding soon. got the

preshots/posed/ceremony stuff covered.

 

however, i'd like to try to improve the reception shots - namely

adding some fill to the background using another sb800 remotely, but

stationary. the main is onboard sb800.

 

the room is perhaps 30X30 feet with a high ceiling (no bouncing the

main, will use a diffuser and/or lumiquest type set up on a flash

bracket). i'll be able to set a remote unit(s) on a balcony at one

end in a way to bounce it off the now closer ceiling. i may just

point the flash(es) down with wide angle diffuser flipped down. has

anyone tried this? i'll have time to set it up and try beforehand,

but just looking for feeback/experience. i have umbrella's, but i'd

like to keep it simple. i may just strap the sb800(s) to the balcony

railing using the included base as a platform. thoughts?

don't confuse exposing for 18% grey and using a grey card to preset WB. you just need something lacking color for setting

WB - the grey happens to work for this quite well. of course, you can also meter off the same color lacking grey card for your exposure.

i've got a 800W inverter in my van that will not allow you to drain the car's battery past 10amps so the van will still start. two outlets, on/off switch and its permanently connected to the battery under the passenger seat (VW Vanagon). works great and was only $69 USD at a the local generic auto parts store.

does canon's system have the abilities that the nikon sb800/600's have? wireless flash is not too hard with one on camera sb800 and 2 off camera sb800/600s. you can even control the output of the remote units via the on camera master. i bet teh 550ex is capable of the same if that is canon's top of the line. (now you just need to get 2 more)...

Steve - fyi - though the "shot's left" indicator starts around 47 for RAW Large on a blank 512MB card, I find i get 90-98 RAW images per 512 card in my D70. good luck.

as long as they are appropriate voltage, the device will know no difference as far as the internal source of the electrons. you are fine to use the NiMH batteries in any device that takes the disposable equivalent.

thanks for the input. i'll have to submit a basic jpg for printing and see if i like the results for proofs. the rest of your data is very helpful.

with a non IS or VR lens, the answer to your last question is Yes. that's the safe guideline. your lens is now essentially a 320mm lens.

I'll try to keep this as brief as possible. While the answers are

quite possibly around in other posts, my searching has not turned

them up.

<p><br>

<b>

PSCS Camera Raw Dialog Box </b>

<ul>

<li>

Is it best to upsize here or later in PS - how effective are the drop

down choices?

<li>Sharpening - I think it wiser to sharpen in the final pre-output

step (Unsharp Mask). Does anyone have an argument for sharpening in

the Raw Dialog box?

<li>Calibration Tab - can anyone provide a real-world example of

when/how to use the features here?

<li>Open question - any other hints on the Camera Raw functionality

that you personally find valuable.

</ul>

<p><br>

<b>

D70 Raw + JPG </b>

<ul>

<li>

Are the jpegs produced here quality enough for 4X6 proofs? Would

really appreciate anyone that actually uses them for such. thank you.

do you have a sample to post? what isn't good about the shot? focus, color, exposure? you'll get tons of help if you can be a bit more specific.

piggyback...can you mix mAh AA's in a device - i.e., i have 4 2300's and 4 2500's...what happens if you put 2 of each in your speedlight?

you're wasting your camera's lifespan partaking in this drivel. (and i am too now)