alfred_maragh

<p>Can anyone recommend a suitable holster type camera bag that will hold a Canon 50D with battery grip and Canon 18-200mm lens attached? It should have a few small pockets for extra CF cards and spare batteries. Weatherproof is important. The smallest holster that can comfortably hold these gear is most desired. Thanks.</p>

A 10-1000 f1.0 USM IS (five stop IS). I guess this would have fluid lens elements that are similar to that in the human

eye; all that would happen is that a magnetic or electrical field changes the shape and thickness of the lens

elements to confer perfect focus and change focal length. Could be done in a two oz. package.

This is certainly not a nice thing to accept especially when one works hard to find a unique place to photograph. However, I am of the view that none of us can stop this practice no matter how hard we try or strongly disagree. It is just one of the many things that technology will drive. It can only increase in popularity and is no different from all the other types of info that are shared on the web. Today you can find just about anything you want by a web search and we all have benefited from this.

An associate of mine covered the 2004 Olympics and I noticed that he mounted a camera at the finish line and triggered it remotely. Many other cameras were beside his and they were all wired with similar receivers. I asked how he knew his photos different from others and how he knew whose transmitter triggered his camera. His response was that he could not tell and it never mattered. Getting the GPS info for a site and simulating the way another person photographed it will, in the future, be some we have to live with. Those of us who are really in this for the true fun will find new things to shoot every day.

Maybe we as photographers will have to look at other ways of making our work unique. Maybe one day we have to face the daunting fact that photography will no longer be a profitable business anymore as with the digital age, many ordinary people can do what photographers were once hired for.

I agree fully. There is often little to gain by selling your older used cameras. The sale price is so low that it more trouble to find a buyer than just leave it in the cupboard.

Back up cameras are critical especially for a professional who must shoot to feed himself. Clients sometimes do not call you back if your equipment fails at a critical time during a once-in-a-lifetime event.

I have kept all the digital cameras I have ever bought. Only one film camera is kept from the original complement of seven. The other six were sold to suckers who refused to go digital in the early days. Can't find another sucker to take the last one so I kept it.

My cameras are kept and used to the point where there fall apart.

One of the problems with keeping too many cameras, especially digital, is that you have keep using them and keep checking and cleaning them. Often time your newer camera is better and so you hardly go back to using the older ones. Idle cameras go bad easily with dust, fungus and corrosion.

Maybe it is sometimes better to give the oldie to a relative or friend who will use it fully.

On the subject of sending a camera to Canon's factory repair service in the US from an address outside the US, my experience is that it can be done easily. I have shipped Canon equipment from Kingston, Jamaica (via DHL) to Canon USA for repairs without any hitches. Canon will NOT return the item to an address outside the US but they will ship it to a US address after repairs are complete. I normally ask them to ship my equipment to a Miami address and either have it brought to Jamaica by relatives or friends who are traveling or just fly up and collect it.

The only issue is that they will communicate with the resident at the Miami address if they need any additional info. That can a real problem if very technical info is required.

I still have an EOS50 (European version of the ElanII). It is in excellent condition and was not frequently used prior to my transition to digital. There is also a strip down EOS100 (European version of the Elan) in a drawer somewhere. The EOS100 had the gooey stuff on the shutter and I had started to dismantle it to remove the offending melted rubber pads. That was five years ago and I had no reason to complete the job. I will keep it just in case I need some small screws to fix something on my digital equipment. I have been trying to sell the EOS50 but has not found a buyer. This is compounded by the fact that I had my name etched in the aluminum skin of the on-camera flash. Over the last two years the following were sold: EOS620, EOS650, EOS100, EOS5 and six Canon EF and Sigma lenses. I made sure that the buyers really wanted them as I would not want anyone to sucker me into buying a film camera in this day and age (I am yet to find a sucker who will buy the EOS50).

The last time I used film was 3 years ago to do I funeral for a friend. I hate doing funerals so I just wanted to shoot and give the unprocessed rolls to my friend. I could not bear having to do a CD of funeral pics. Prior to that funeral I had not shot film for two years and will never again.

Thanks to you Steve for the link. This is exactly what I have been searching for.

Thanks to all the other respondents. I take note of the cautions. In fact I was wondering why dust got behing the element so easily. But I was shooting in very dusty condition at a motor rally and kept a towel in hand to cover the camera as soon as the dust was rising. I may opt to leave the lens as is if there are no noticeable specks on future pics. There are no specks on the rally pics so I dont think the sensor was affected. Thanks again.

Does anyone know where on the web I can find a repair manual for the Canon EF

28-135 IS lens? My copy of this lens has a few dust particles behind the front

element and I just want to remove this element to clean it. I have pulled

several EF lenses before and successfully cleaned them but I just would like

remove the element the right way the first time. I recall there is a website

that has diagrams of how some lenses and cameras are stripped down, sort of

repair manuals. I did download one for the EOS 10D some time ago but just

can't remember what the site name is. Google searches have not helped. I am

not up to sending the lens to a service facility for cleaning. Thanks.

This one's for Daniel. B&H does have BRAND NEW Canon 10D's. I bought one two months ago for the listed price of $800. When I ask the source of the these cameras B&H said they are excess stock that Canon had in a warehouse and have offered then to B&H. My copy is in new original condition and qualifies for the full Canon warranties as any new camera. It is just like the first one I bought two years ago and there is nothing to say it is not new. I used a new CF card with it and the counter started at 0001 in continuous counting mode. So, I have good reason to believe these 10D'S from B&H new stuff and in my years of dealing with them I have never doubted their reputation as honest traders.

I used to always use a light/flash meter when shooting film especially with multiple strobe studio set ups. When I shifted fully to digital, the meters became redundant for me. I set my camera monitor brightness to the level that gives me the luminosity closest to the actual prints and gauge everything from that. So, I set up my lights, do two or three test shots, look at the monitor and check the histogram. I can then get the perfect setting for the particular lighting set up. Can't imagine that a flashmeter would do a better job! BTW, if you shoot with studio set ups very often you may reach the stage where the shooting parameters can be easily predicted with any set up.

I tend to agree with some of the responses regarding the suitability of this post on an EOS forum. However, some persons have found it informative and that is good. However, I believe anyone you shops at B&H every so often will be familiar with their closing schedules. The fact that we are all using the internet to check photo.net I think we should more than occasionally check B&H website. If you go to the website holiday closing notice is one of the most prominent items. If you go in store there is a guy at the door who religiously gives you a yellow flyer with the closing schedule. Phone-in shoppers may not know this schedule but they may not be using photo.net either! BTW, the store always closed for the almost the entire month in October every year ;-)

I, too, have noticed that web orders are no longer accepted at B&H between certain hours from Friday evening to Saturday evening. I forgot to ask why when I was at the store last week but I think it has to do with them more strongly adhering to the Sabbath. It is a Jewish store and deserve our respect of their faith. It can be sometimes annoying to be in NY and the store is closed for a Jewish observance but the thing is that IMO they are best and we just gotto work around it.

Hey, B&H has brand new 10D's for $800. I bought one last month. They told me that they are unsold stock that Canon had in their warehouse. They are still available on B&H web site listing and come with all the warranties as when originally released. I would buy a 10D any day over the Rebel XT.

I am not totally disappointed by the specs of the 30D. However, it confirms a thought that I have had for some time regarding just how high will one need to go in terms of megapixels. The 22MP Mamiya has been on B&H site for months as "TBA" and I think they may as well remove it now as it will offer very little advantage to the average professional shooter in terms of cost vs picture quality. The digital age has made it possible to get very good prints of the sizes that most people require with a 6MP camera. With post processing noise reduction and interpolation, the print sizes can go even much larger.

The innovators of technology are driving the market to a great extent. Maybe we really dont need higher than the 8.2MP the 30D gives and Canon realizes this and so continues with this size.

You all be honest now, do you really need it? Are you buying a camera as a display toy or tool? Are your images suffering from low MP? How many jobs have you gotten in the last umpteen years that require more MP than your camera now gives? How many jobs have you not gotten because your camera just did not have the right MP rating?Would you have gotten a better shot if the damn camera was just 1MP higher?

 

The crop format is neither here nor there. Once the aspect ratio remains the same all is well. I have gotten so used to the 1.6 crop that it no longer matters. I think of this in a same way as 35mm versus medium or large format. It is good that Canon will retain the 1.6 crop as many of us will have invested in super wide lenses already. Also, there will be less confusion and loss where already acquired accessories for this format are concerned. Not a big deal, still get your good 8X12 aspect.

We ought to realise that digital has invariable given us much more flexibility in getting good images. And getting good images is what counts, whether taken with 1.6X, 1X, 1.3X,1.5X, 4MP, 6.3MP, 8.2MP, 12.4MP, 16MP or 22MP.

 

With those thoughts in mind, I went out and got another brand new 10D from B&H for $800. Loving it; works perfect for my projects.

 

With the frequency with which some forum members post messages regarding what are the best camera specs, I wonder if they ever get a chance to take pictures, or have they been just been buying the latest camera to replace the one collected last season.

 

Just my thoughts.

I should have added that formatting your card will not affect the file numbering sequence.

Hey guys, here are some facts. I do not know much about the file number recording system of the higher Canon DSLRs (5D and ID series) but I think with the others (10D, 20D, 300D and 350D), the first shot you take with the new camera will assume the next higher number whether it is on the card or the camera. So, if you use a previously used card, the first shot with the new camera will be the next sequential number on the card. If there are 4821 shots done with the card, your next one on the new camera will be 4822 and not 0001.

The converse is true when using a new card with a used camera. The first shot will have the number next in line to the last one recorded by the camera.

If both card and camera were previously used but not together only, the first shot will have the file number of next highest sequential number, whether that number is on the card or camera. That is, if the card has done more shots than the camera, the next number will follow that of the highest one on the card and vice versa.

The issue can get even more complex when the card has been previously used with various camera makes with different file numbering system. I dont know how the camera knows what number should be next in such cases.

I have just bought a new 10D (yes, a 10D from B&H) and will be getting a new card before taking the first shot to see that the file numbering is OK.

In your case, it does not matter how many pictures were taken with the card before. It may just well be that your 50th shot on the Powershot Pro1 had a file number of 4821! Also, if someone used this card in another camera just once and recored a file with number 4821, then what you are now getting is perfectly logical.

I find it a little that you could have been cheated into buying used cameras disguised as new on two occasions!

Hey, Bob, I was unaware of those rumours you mentioned. You may be right in saying that those rumours that turn out to be true emerge just prior to official anouncements and could be informed leaks. Guess I did not take that into consideration.

I may be alone here but most of the rumours I come across about Canon's new equipment turn out to be true. One will not forget the dogging that the 5D speculative posts got on this forum, just to later be confirmed in a few days. The 20D was the same.

It is also factual that there may be persons who initiate some of these rumours for fun or mischief.

It is not unbelievable that Canon will one day release a 20MP digital SLR. In fact, I believe that the next high-end digital SLR from Canon will be 22MP as this resolution is consistent with that of some professional digital backs.

I have had this lens for a while but rarely use it now. Thought it was a cheap way to get wide angle shots when I used to shoot film. It was designed for Canon APS SLR. It is now up for sale.

YOU DO NOT NEED A THIN FILTER FOR THIS LENS! YOU WILL NOT GET VIGNETTING UNLESS MORE THAN TWO FILTERS ARE STACKED TOGETHER.

I have used the lens at 22mm with both UV Protector and Polarizer filters attached at once without vignetting.

The reason why you will have to use a push-on lens cap with a thin filter is that the thin filter does not come with female outer thread. Snap-on lens caps actually use the grooves of the thread to fit in place. I would suggest you get a lens hood (Canon EW-60D) for this lens. B&H still has some and since the lens is no longer in production, this hood will certainly not be available for much longer.

I agree with the previous response regarding weatherproofing. I, too, think that that is the clearest justification. Since switching completely to digital, my views on film cameras have changed radically. A simple film Rebel seems more than enough to me now. Before, the minimum would be and EOS 5, or at worst the Elan series. Now, any film SLR seem OK as they all do the same thing: take pictures of film. Once you have a good lens, which ever film camera you use, once the same film is being used the result will be the same. I now chase the features of the newer digital SLR's as they are not all the same.

Thank you all for great responses. There is much clarity on the subject now. Steve, the link to the Canon lens chart was very useful. Jim's site has agreat article that comprehensively explained the topic. With all the info received from you all, I am now able to decide that the Tokina 12-24 will be my purchase.

I am in the market for a zoom super wide lens for the 10D and

Digital Rebel. There are a number of such lenses available but I

want one with the widest field of within a certain price range

(below $600). I notice that there seem to be little direct

relationship between the lens focal length and its field of view.

For example the Sigma 17mm-35mm gives 103.7 degress at the wide end

while the Tokina 12mm-24mm gives 99 degrees. One would have expected

that the shorter the focal length the wider the field of view but

this appears not to be so. Does the 1.6 crop factor affect field of

view? If I want the widest coverage should I go for the lens with

the widest FOV rather than the shortest focal length? Thanks for

your responses.

Hi,

 

My recommendation is that you use a recovery software for recovering the files from the formatted card. Depending the brand of card there is a particular software available from the manufacturer. The recovery software from Sandisk is Rescue Pro. There is another one for Lexar. I know little about generic image recovery software that can be used with any card, but it appears that several of these exist. In the mean time do not record anything on the card prior to recovery. I must tell you that this is something I have had to do on a few occasions and I am always successful with Rescue Pro for my Sandisk Cards.

Hi,

Here are some reasons why rechargeable batteries go bad:

1. When you use a car charger frequently. You will notice that the batteries charge quickly and that is because of the high current being pushed. The batteries will quickly go bad.

 

2. Many recharge cycles

 

3. Leaving fully charged batteries standing unused for very long periods

Robert, the 300D does have depth of field preview just like the 10D.