keith_pitman
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Posts posted by keith_pitman
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Probably should have been listed as $7.95.
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You might investigate this:
/281221970913?pt=US_Lens_Boards&hash=item417a22bbe1
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You can find inexpensive Arca-type plates on Ebay with a single long slot in a variety of lengths. That would be simpler to
match to your camera.
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If you are trying to avoid unplugging and replugging, you can get a (Paramount) Y-cable and leave your meter and
wireless receive connected all the time.
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If I am thinking of the right lens, the 90mm f/5.6 Super Angulon has a large rear element that may not fit through the opening in the front
standard of cameras that use Linhof-type lensboards. Try before you buy.
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I don't like neck straps for my Hasselblads as I usually use the cameras on a tripod. The short Hasselblad straps give me
something to hang on to when mounting the cameras and when I do use them handheld.
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I don't use the single A-24 I own and would gladly sell it.
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<p>Do a search on APUG. I remember that someone had a similar problem with that enlarger recently and solved it (maybe with help from KHB).</p>
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<p>I've had a couple of Lowepro backpacks and found them uncomfortable and heavy. I have a small, teardrop shaped Mountainsmith that I bought new from Craigslist that fits my Hasselblad outfit well and is quite comfortable. </p>
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<p>"well the 6X6 hasselblad film magazines work with this camera or does it have a different film insert, thank you ?"</p>
<p>Try reading the manual (Hint: start on the last page)!</p>
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<p>You would benefit from spending some time with the user manual:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWVSys.aspx">http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWVSys.aspx</a></p>
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<p>I’m bringing up this old thread because I just bought a Flexbody, and did not have a Stray Light Protection Mask included with it when purchased. After reading the manual on-line, which references this mask, I had expected one in the kit. <br>
My Flexbody is of 1996 vintage, and the manual that came with it is dated 1995. It is not the same manual that is referred to earlier in this thread. As others indicated, this version of the manual makes no mention of the Stray Light Protection Mask. On the cover of the manual, it refers to the camera as the “Flexbody CP.” My Flexbody has the level located on the top of the rise/fall (aka slide) knob, not on the focusing screen. <br>
After reading through this thread, and both versions of the manual, here’s my speculation as to why some cameras do not have the mask and why one version of the manual does not mention the mask: I think that Hasselblad originally included the mask, but later discontinued it as unnecessary. Assuming the manual from the historical society link is an earlier one, this would explain why it does not appear in the 1995 manual. Also, my 501cm camera has the same recess in the back as the Flexbody. In the 501cm, it would be used for the 645 and 3x6 masks, in a similar fashion as the 4x5 mask would be used in the Flexbody. There are no stray light problems in my 501cm. Finally, I have two catalogs (one is 2001, the other is undated, but probably 2002), neither of which lists this mask among the components that are supplied with the Flexbody. <br>
I hope this is useful. </p>
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<p>I have the dichroic version of this enlarger, but the manual covers both types. According to the manual I have, "The scale for Kodak and compatible papers appears in the upper scale window, and the scale for Ilford and compatible papers in the lower scale window." Hope this helps.</p>
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I was at Fred Picker's workshop in 1990 when he announced that he had sold to Calumet. It was a couple of years (I think) until Picker was completely gone, but Zone VI was never the same again. By 1990, Picker was making his own camera.
I had a Zone VI Wista that I bought about 1986 that was the second generation of Wista's they carried. Your Tachihara must predate 1986.
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I've bought several things from Mr. Dagor77 and been more than 99.5% satisfied. A reliable (and entertaining) gentleman. These unsupported comments have no validity.
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A friend bought this lens and found that the rear element would not fit through the front standard of his 4x5 camera (an Ebony). It was certainly the wrong lens from his situation.
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I haven't been there in a few years, but I drove a Buick in there a couple of times in the past. I don't remember the road being particularily bad, just washboard. I remember that a lot of people were camped at pull-outs along the road going in. These could be crowded on Labor Day as well, however. It's a great place. Enjoy the time there.
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The best suggestion is to call Canham about both questions. Keith Canham is very helpful and will have the correct answers as well as any cautions that you might not get from people on this forum.
Based on my understanding (remember I'm one of those people on this forum), the Canham 6x17 holder is intended to mount on a camera with a 5x7 Graflock back. The wood Canham 5x7 does not have a Graflock back, but the metal MQC does. That's why it's listed as a MQC accessory. I understand, however, that, if the holder will slide behind the ground glass, you can use it on a 5x7 without a Graflock. It takes about two inches to get the holder under the glass. I would have a concern about correct registration and light tightness using this method.
As far as marks to center the front standard, I'd suggest carefully centering the front standard, and then creating your own marks. It would a good idea to make temporary marks at first, perhaps using tape, until you're sure you've got them in the right place.
The Canham is a nice camera; I use one myself.
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I had a Galvin 2x3 a few years ago. I like the camera, but the ground glass was too small. I'd say if you want to photograph in that size, get a 6x7 back for a 4x5 or a Mamiya. The camera was simple, lightweight, but not flimsy. I like the fact that it was easy to carry.
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I concur with George; the 210 is the right lens. You'll need roughly 37 inches from the film to the baseboard to make an 11x14, and 43 inches for a 16x20.
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You can use Linhof and Horseman holders by removing the groundglass. You can use the Sinar multi holder by inserting it in the filmholder slot.
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My understanding has always been that the film in T55 is Kodak Panatomic X. So there's no reason it couldn't be processed by normal tray development. You just have to work out the development times like any other film.
There's no need to worry about the film drying out; it doesn't get wet until you break the pod in the Polaroid holder for development.
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Try lunarpages.com for inexpensive web hosting. It's about $114 per year. Don't expect security for your images. I'd suggest you overprint a copywright stamp on the bottom of each image. Of course, it can be cropped out, but it sends the message.
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Try going the the film manufacturers' websites. Here's Kodak's:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f3/f3.jhtml
I imagine the other manufacturers have similar information, on the web or in print.
Im missing a 32mm mounting nut for a Prontor?
in Large Format
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