charles_wass

<p>I rarely use my T90 and so, as a sort of insurance policy, I take it out of the cupboard quite often and fire the shutter a few times. I am told that may stave off the problem, but I don't know if I should believe that.</p>

<p>As a Canon collector I was curious about the curious AL-1 and so bought one a couple of years ago when I came across an example in good condition. I am surpised that the focus indication is quite accurate and consistent given a subject of reasonable contrast.</p>

<p>Presumably the modelscope is designed for manual exposure and focusing, in which case does the camera need to recognise it ? Some cameras can be fooled into recognising that something is attached to the lens mount and then will allow manual control.</p>

<p>Apologies for a small error above. the lens on 6x7 was 90mm and the circular image nearly filled the frame..</p>

<p>Long ago I used to photograph architectural models in the course of my work and in fact they were all models of interiors that had to be photographed so as to simulate the eye level of a person in the actual building. Sometimes the model maker arranged for parts of the side to be removeable and I used a small camera in that case, but never simulated a true eye level. Sometimes in those cases and always when the side was not removeable I used a modelscope. The modelscope is intended for viewing models in this context. It is a type of endoscope with a prism at the end to provide the right angled view. <br>

There are AFAIK two types. The one I used was primarily for viewing by eye, but came with a set of adaptors to fit lens filter threads. I had to fit the camera to a copy stand because the effective aperture was about F/90! With a 35mm camera the modelscope provided a circular image cut off at top and bottom. I can't remember the lens I used, but it was probably 50mm. I also used a 6x7 SLR and got a circular image within the frame using a 80mm lens. Framing was difficult and I had to use high level supplementary lighting. With the 6x7 I used a Polaroid back to assess exposure and framing.<br>

The other type of modelscope, that I have never seen, I believe has some sort of mounting arrangement itself specifically for photography.<br>

I do not know the manufacturer of the model I used, which belonged to my company and was primarily for clients to view the models. It was simply marked "Made in Paris". <br>

I do not know your location, but the modelscope was bought from an architectural model making business in London called Thorpe Model Makers. They were then in Gray's Inn Road, but I think they later moved.<br>

I found using the modelscope very troublesome.</p>

<p>There are two types of adapter to enable the lens you have to be used on the 300D. One has no glass element and will not allow focusing to infinity or anywhere near it. The other type has a glass element or elements to enable infinity focus but the glass degrades image quality. The usual advice is not to use FD fit lenses on EOS cameras. I have those lenses and cameras, but never use the two together.<br>

<br />Manual focus lenses from other manufacturers can be used successfully on EOS cameras, including Nikon, M42 and Pentax K. Alternatively your lens can be used with adapters on many ILCs/CSCs.</p>

<p>In my experience, admittedly limited to two FD adapters, the manufacturers err for safety in the other direction, making them fractionally short so that the lens focusses beyond infinity.</p>

<p>When you shoot in Auto mode the camera chooses where to focus. It cannot read your mind. Try P mode and use centre point focus, at least at first. Also note carefully what Jos van Eekelen and Rob Bernhard advise about depth of field</p>

<p>I have an adapter with a "lock - unlock" ring that enables the aperture to be stopped dow.</p>

<p>The previous posts have covered the pros and cons of the various camera types well, but I suspect that, however helpful they tried to be, they will not in themselves enable you to make the right decision. The three types handle so differently that there is a risk of your making a choice you may later regret unless you can try all three and compare them. Is there really no way of handling examples? If you ask around or advertize locally you may even find someone who has a neglected camera they would be ready to sell and which you could try without obligation, though I acknowledge that few people except professionals used MF.</p>

<p>I endorse Douwe Van de Voort's post, but would caution that the RB67 is very heavy and not ideal if you plan much hand held use. I used to use one, but almost always on a tripod. The Hasselblad is lighter and obviously so are the 645 models.</p>

<p>The red LED indicates that the battery is OK, but it could be worth trying another.<br>

Does the orange LED light?<br>

There are numerous interlocks on the camera, but I believe they are not identical between the various RZ67 models. Which is yours?<br>

I had a similar problem with my RZ67 ProII last year and when I took it to be repaired the technician found that one of the interlock links between body and film holder was sticking.</p>

<p>A few months ago my RZ67 failed to function. I took it to Graham Playford, who had been recommended and who has a workshop in south east London. He checked it while I waited and showed me the cause, an interlock that was not releasing. He dealt with it in just four days and also eased the shutter release collar which was stiff. He charged £80.<br>

He does not have a functioning website but can be contacted by email at graham@playfordrepairs.com. </p>

<p>As Arthur has pointed out there is the expected IR effect in the first example in the far distance with the tree on the right. The second example shows the effect clearly with the trees on the right, while those on the left are in shade. The third example is entirely in full sun but lacks contrast between reflecting surfaces (foliage) and other surfaces.<br>

The effect is most pronounced when the proportion of IR to visible light is highest and that occurs with direct overhead sunlight. Unfortunately that is not going to happen at this time of year in Toronto.</p>

 

<p>In my previous response I forgot to mention that, through my ignorance, I thought I was posting to an Admin box that would deal with such queries, rather than the Medium Format Forum that I had just been looking at. I now see that I should have sought Site Help.</p>

<p>Thank you for the responses. Unfortunately through not understanding the site well, I asked the question incorrectly.<br>

To explain; I responded on 25 Dec and 27 Dec to a question originally posted on 17 Dec. I think I understand the site better now and assume that those responses should have caused the thread to appear in Active threads or "more Active threads" around those dates. They did not, while earlier responses to other threads did cause them to be kept in Active threads. The result is that the thread, which is now way down the Recently Added list, is not active and so that the member seeking help and badly in need of it, is unlikely to realize that there have been recent responses.<br>

Have I understood the operation correctly and should the thread have become active? </p>

<p>I'm not sure that I have followed the discussion properly, but would mention that the instructions with the Wein MRB state that the full voltage is not available immediately after the seal is removed. I was caught out by this, thinking the first time I used one that it was partly exhausted or defective out of the package, but finding it reached full voltage some time later.</p>

<p>Do you mean the rewind crank? As it is a very simple component I do not see how it could jam.</p>

<p>My last but one post in the medium format forum did not rise to the top. I tried again and the same thing happened.</p>

<p>I am posting again because my last one did not cause the thread to rise to the top and Enmerkar would have missed it. Anyway here are three further thoughts. <br>

Did you check the battery voltage? I have once or twice had a problem with the battery not contacting properly and appearing to be dead; test by moving the battery around in its compartment.<br>

Could it be that the lens is the RB type and not the RZ type. It might be possible for the RB shutter to fire even if there is a problem elsewhere, because the timing is contained within the lens and not controlled by the body. </p>

<p>Though the screen is not the brightest around, it is perfectly adequate for use even in lowish lighting levels. I have no problems with it. Could the lens be permanently stopped down?<br>

You say that the viewfinder goes dark when you press the shutter release, but that may only indicate flipping of the mirror, which drops back when you wind on. Viewing through the lens would show if the shutter is working. The only shutter speed available without a battery is 1/400 as mentioned previously.<br>

The lack of both red and orange LEDs suggests a serious malfunction.</p>

 

<p>Rather like Mark, I used the F-1N and A-1 for many years, though in a dry climate, without any problem with the battery contacts. Having previously sold both, I have recently aquired examples again, including the whole A series, and not one shows any such problem, though admittedly they show no signs of use in damp conditions, unlike another camera I bought. <br>

You seem to be especially unlucky. Commiserations.<br>

On the subject of resistance of added contact materials such as copper, I would expect the resistance of a small piece to be very low in relation to the internal resistance of the battery and the circuit resistance.</p>

<p>The orange LED merely indicates the presence of the three states mentioned above that particular point in your last post. Essentially it means the cocking lever has not been advanced. From your previous explanation of the problems it appears that an interlock is preventing the lever being moved, which in turn implies, I am afraid, a mechanical failure of some sort, rather than something a user might diagnose.</p>

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<p>When you set program or shutter-speed priority, I think you have to set the lens to the green 'A' on the aperture ring - but check that out first.</p>

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<p>That is correct and it is also true for aperture priority. However, apart from not making that setting, I do not see how there can be any conflict between the various options for settings.</p>

<p>Further to what Alex has posted, and so as to cut corners, I suspect he is insinuating that the lens is the EF 16-35mm and you are using it on a Canon DSLR via EOS Utility, in which case you would find more help on the Canon EOS forum.</p>