Jump to content

rohnan_black

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rohnan_black

  1. <p>@C Watson I guess my answer didn't come out the way i was thinking. English isn't my first language (it's my third). For my defense, i had no idea what he was asking and answered 'generally' which is Epson V500 > Walmart Scanners (the no brand/low quality one's).</p>

    <p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=509668">Dave Redmann</a> It's from a rolleiflex. Having it scanned locally was over $300 + 5 business days. Having it scanned on a drum scanner was over $500 and 10 business days. Since a lot of people said it can be done, especially for 20x20 which isn't large, i went for it. Crossing my fingers it works out.</p>

    <p>Well photos are done. The software slowness was thanks to Microsoft. It was doing a forced update causing the computer to slow down. Once that was done, it took about 2 minutes to scan each 120 negative.</p>

    <p>Epson software was used on professional like always, but it LOVES to revert to default settings, even though i was using custom profiles. Very annoying, very poorly designed.</p>

    <p>The only other issue, is some of the film was processed by a lab (i do 90% of my own development) and those were horrible. Lots of scratches and dust. That took a good chunk of time to clean up... Those negatives had a LOT of artifacts, while the one's i develop myself had none (or nearly none). Very awkward... I had to replace some of them with other photos.</p>

    <p>Digital ICE was not used since it was all 6x6 B&W photos. Digital ICE works very poorly with B&W photos since they are silver based (and not transparent). Unless they changed the technology/software in the past year. I just skipped it.</p>

    <p>Each files are around 250-300 MB large, less than i am used too when shooting DMF, but a lot more than when using my D3 or when scanning my 135. It should be interesting.</p>

    <p>Everything is off to printing, i'll see a proof on Monday before hopefully giving the A-OK.</p>

    <p>It was a VERY different experience, i usually shoot digital.</p>

  2. <p>Hello, my fiancee has an exhibition coming up, and we need to scan our 6x6 120 negatives. We have a Epson V500 that we have been using, but i am unsure at what resolution to scan them? We are having them printed 20x20.</p>

    <p>Please advise, thanks!</p>

    <p>P.S: No we can't have them scan professionally, it's very expensive and the delay is much long here. I think the V500 should be able to handle 120 negative for printing 20x20.</p>

  3. <p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=7059072">Luis Rives</a> I have been thinking about 6x7 a LOT because if i'm going to take the time to develop my 120 (i have a dark room for my 135) i want something that's worth the time and money. So i looked at 6x7 but the weight + price put me off.<br>

    This won't be used indoor/studio but on the go... which is why i figured 645 would be much better.</p>

    <p>The RZ67 is simply too expensive here, and the RB67 doesn't have a built in meter. And the weight... ouch.</p>

    <p>But yeah if anyone knows of a 6x7 that meet my requirements then by all mean, share :)</p>

  4. <p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6882825">Paul Loveteck</a> Thank you, i have over 150 transactions on eBay. I have been a member for a long (LONG) time. I personally never sell on it, it's horrible for sellers. For buyers, as long as you are smart, there's good deals to be made :)<br>

    Thanks to everyone for the answers, we will probably go with a ETRSI.</p>

  5. <p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6882825">Paul Loveteck</a> Buy smartly on eBay and it's fine. So don't purchase any 'sold as is' and pay with Paypal to be protected. If the shipper sends crap, you recuperate your money.<br>

    @Henry Posner Thanks!</p>

  6. <p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6882825">Paul Loveteck</a> Lots of mamiya and bronika selling for under $500 on eBay and even locally (and where i live, stuff is usually 20-30% more expensive than the average prices on eBay). I'm talking about metered prism + lens + body + grip + 1 or 2 backs.</p>

    <p>@C Watson The OP realizes that and the WLF is exactly for that, landscaping shots :) Or else it's too awkward (that's what my old 500CM taught me and my fiancee).</p>

    <p><strong>We are leaning toward a Bronika ETRS or ETRSI. Any differences? Some people say the ETRS is better built while other say the ETRSI is... hmnn?</strong><br>

    <br /> <strong>I was also made aware there's a Bronika that shoots 6x6 AND 6x7, anyone know the model?</strong><br /> <br /> Thank you all!</p>

  7. <p>I have owned both a Hassy H and V for a few years. The H was for studio work with a digital back, while the V was for personal use.<br>

    I did not like using the H, it's a nice/good camera, but it felt ackward to use.</p>

    <p>What about the Bronica SQ series for 6x6? I stumble upon those, and i am a big fan of 6x6.</p>

  8. <p>Hey guys, i'm asking this on behalf on my fiancee.</p>

    <p>She want's a 6x4.5 camera with the following:<br>

    Metered 'slr' type prism viewfinder<br>

    Waist Finder (switchable with the prism)<br>

    Good grip (the one that attaches to the side)<br>

    Film backs (switchable backs, to change from color to B&W, not catriges).<br>

    Around $400-$500.</p>

    <p>Any recommendations? Google comes up with a good number of options, some making the requirements, other's not so much (some are a complete package, with just the lens being changeable).</p>

    <p>If you can recommend something that has a built in grip, that's fine, but the changable waist finder/prism is very high on the list. The film backs, not as much.</p>

    <p>Thank you!</p>

  9. <p>I tried to be courteous (telling people you know what you need for your own project isn't arrogance, it's base on experience and thinking before posting), but it seems it's lost in the void of the internet. Oh well not that it really matters...<br>

    @Francisco Thanks, it's available locally here, it's great, but it's very expensive. They want $3000 here.<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=7150947"><br /></a><br>

    @Mike i have both a Rollei and a Yashica. Excellent camera's, but for this project the waist finder simply won't work.<br>

    @Rodeo Thank you. I did do research and found those to be a problem which is why i am buying from the US, with a guarantee, a Kiev 60M that just received a CLA. I'm only worried about the weight... But at $200, it's cheap to try. As for the light meter i don't need a super accurate one (or i would use one from the studio), but i do need one that puts me in the ballpark since the targets will be just complicated enough that sunny16 won't be accurate enough.<br>

    Thanks for the people contributing to this thread!</p>

    <p> </p>

  10. <p>With respect, you have no idea what i'm doing, and i'm not sure why you think you know better what i need??? Like i stated, those requirements are dictated by the project i'm doing for a private gallery exposition. Not my choices or i would stick to my usual film or digital equipment.<br>

    I guess you guys get a lot of clueless amateurs on here, and if that's the case, i understand your answers. You are wasting your time treating me like one though (been around the block quite a few times).<br>

    I do appreciate you trying to help though.<br>

    I just grabbed a KIEV 60M set, for $200. If that doesn't do the trick, then i'll simply grab a Fuji GF670. I'm just not too happy with splurging $1500 for it, especially just after replacing my 70-200 with the new one from Nikon.</p>

  11. <p>Some answers:<br>

    Nature of the project: Work for a private gallery.<br>

    As for the built-in light meter: Yes i need it built in. Why? Because i need it built-in so i'm not dangling anything around my neck (already fully loaded with other equipment). Trying to keep it light + practical.<br>

    @Rodeo High-ISO has to do with the light meter measuring the scene properly. No point shooting film 1600 and having the light meter only go up to 640.<br>

    The light meter needs to be built in. It can be uncoupled, but built-in (no hot shoe one).<br>

    Yes i'm printing square, which is why i want a 6x6. I'm not making this 'on the go', this has been figured out over years of shooting, printing, etc.<br>

    @ Carlo, thanks but the ISO only goes to 640 sadly. I found that one awhile back, and thought i finally found something, but left disappointed.</p>

    <p>To everyone, thanks for the suggestions, but like i stated in the original posts, i can't 'change' my requirements since they are dictated by the project for the gallery. That's why they are requirements. If anyone comes up with something, please let me know.</p>

  12. <p>Hello community!<br>

    I am having a hard time finding a camera for my a project. Mostly because of pricing i guess.</p>

    <p>I am looking for a camera similar to the Mamiya 6 or even the Fuji GF670.</p>

    <p>What the camera must have:<br>

    <strong>6x6</strong><br>

    <strong>Built in lightmeter</strong><br>

    <strong>Good ISO choices</strong> (up to 800 or 1600 even)<br>

    <strong>Portable/Light</strong> (none of the traditional MF like the 500CM, those are way too heavy)<br>

    <strong>Budget $500-700 </strong>(ready to shoot, includes lens/viewfinder/etc)</p>

    <p>So far everything i find is either so old i'm not interested because they lack a built in lightmeter, or good ISO choices (aka the russian folders), or too expensive ($1500-$2500 for the Mamiya 6, Bessa III, Fuji GF670, etc).</p>

    <p>Anything i haven't looked at? I saw Fujica had the 645, 670, 680 and 690... But not '660'?? That's very weird.</p>

    <p>Thank you.</p>

×
×
  • Create New...