sean_donnelly

I've used the Apo-Sironar-S for critical copy work to 1/4 scale with

outstanding results. How great a magnification do you plan to

routinely use?

I dearly love my Linhof Technikardan 45, but there are days when I

long for the rigidity and full gearing of a Sinar X or P2. And a pack

animal, of course!

 

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I've heard from an previous owner of both that the Technikardan is

considerably sturdier than the Canham DLC. If so, I wouldn't

seriously consider the latter.

Unless you shoot primarily color transparencies, I recommend that you

postpone buying a center filter for whatever wide-angle lens you

choose. Only occasionally do I find the fall-off to be objectionable.

I use a Rodenstock Grandagon-N 75 mm f/4.5. While I haven't used the

Schneider or Nikon, they are nearly identical in specification, and

the three manufacturers have comparable reputations for quality.

 

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When using my 75 mm, I often have les coverage than I need for the

movements I want to use. If I were to replace this lens, I'd buy a

Schneider Super Angulon XL 72 mm f/5.6. For moderately higher cost,

size, and weight, this lens has greatly increased coverage compared to

the lenses you're considering.

 

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Incidently, I also use a Rodenstock Apo-Sironar-S 150 mm f/5.6 and a

Nikon M 300 mm f/9. The 75/150/300 mm combination has served me very

well, and the latter two lenses are best-in-class. I think you'll be

pleased with your choices.

My advice: Don't buy until you've tried a Pentax Digital Spotmeter.

Simple, rugged, convenient, and intuitive. Forget the Zone XI mod --

it's a joke.

Fuji Quickload works very well in the Fuji film holder, well in the Polaroid, and not at all in the Kodak. In the Fuji holder, film flatness compares well with a conventional film holder. Each packet contains a single sheet of film. The product does not suffer from light leaks.

 

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Kodak Readyload works moderately well in the Kodak back, poorly or not at all in the Polaroid, and not at all in the Fuji. Each packet contains two sheets of film. The product suffers from light leaks unless great care is taken to avoid bending the packet, to firmly reseat the packet, and to shield the loading slot from ambient light.

 

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Readyload is about twice as compact as Quickload, which is much more compact than a comparable set of conventioal film holders. In both brands, available film types are somewhat limited. Both are considerably more expensive than conventionally packaged film.

If you need field portability, be sure to look at the Linhof Technikardan 45 and Arca-Swiss F-line.

 

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I have a TK 45 and find it to be compact, versatile, durable, and to have nice controls. The gentleman who sold me mine replaced it with a Canham DLC, and says he made a big mistake -- the DLC is not nearly as rigid as the TK 45.

 

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If you don't need to backpack with the camera, check out Sinar. They are vastly more rigid than any field camera, and have unique DOF-calculating features that appear to be very useful.

I have owned a G1349 for about 18 months, and have been using it with a Linhof Technikardan 45 for about 10 months. I find that this tripod is amply stable and free from vibration, even at full leg extension, and I greatly value its combination of light weight and versatility.

 

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I find the rapid center column useful with 35 mm cameras; however, I find even a relatively light view camera is awkward on it -- one must support the weight of the camera with one hand while locking the column with the other. When using my Linhof, I remove the column and use the tripod as a G1348.

 

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I have no complaints about this tripod and wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

The Lens and Repro Equipment Corp. has advertised a 150 mm Goerz Hypergon that covers 20 x 24". I believe ther are also many long focal length process lenses that would cover this size.

Frustrated by negative popping, I'd like to get a glass 4x5" negative carrier for an Omega D2 enlarger with Chromega head. Where can I buy one?

The lens assembly consists of a front lens component screwed into the front of the shutter, and a rear lens component screwed into the rear of the shutter. Just grasp the outside of the rear barrel and unscrew it, unthread the spanner nut from the shutter, slip the rear end of the shutter into the hole in the lensboard, tighten the nut against the lensboard with the wrench, and screw in the rear lens component. It is not necessary to tighten the latter more than hand tight.

 

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Enjoy!

I use a Linhof Technikardan 45 on a Gitzo 1348, with an Arca-Swiss B1 head. I've found this tripod to be extremely useful for LF. It is lightweight, versatile (it goes very high and very low), and extremely rigid. Even at its maximum extension, I can detect no vibration. As reported above, the leglocks can be hard on one's hands. However, they do lock the legs very effectively, and have no protruding levers to snag on foliage.

I love my Pentax Digital Spotmeter. It is very simple to use, even in poor lighting; you'll never need to refer to the manual. The readout is in the viewfinder, handy for scanning the subject for maximum and minimum values. The mechanical exposure calculator lets you see every possible exposure combination simultaneously. It is also very rugged.

I own a Technikardan 45, which continues to amaze me with its convenience and versatility. Linhof's advertising claims are no exaggeration -- the TK's really are full-featured monorail cameras which fold to field camera size, without any disassembly.

 

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After five months of use, all backpacking, I wholeheartedly recommend the TK. It's worth the hefty price.

I bought mine from The Lens and Repro Equipment Corp.

(212) 675-1900 for $46. It's a plastic one-gallon bucket

with a snap-on lid and a removeable rack for up to twelve

negatives. The rack adjusts for different film sizes, up

to 4x5". The lid requires serious prying to remove; it

seals well enough to prevent spills, but seeps when

inverted.

I use REI's Jungle Juice (95% DEET). I have never had a mosquito bite, tick, or chigger on skin to which I've applied it. To avoid damage to equipment, I don't apply it to my hands, and I get bitten there despite my reeking of DEET.

I have been using a Gitzo 1349 for seven months with high-speed long lenses. I find it to be rock-solid all the way up to its 78.75" maximum height. The center column can be quickly replaced by a plate (included); it this configuration it goes down to about 4". Stiffness and freedom from vibration exceed those of the Gitzo 341, which is heavier, shorter, and longer when folded. Despite my abusive handling (water immersion, sand, 10' drop, extreme temperatures) it functions perfectly.

 

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I am a mechanical engineer with extensive experience with composite structures. Contrary to repeated claims, reduced mass decreases, not increases, the amplitude of structural vibration for a given stiffness. Gitzo's carbon fiber tripods reduce camera vibration (relative to equivalent metal ones) in three ways -- greater stiffness, greater damping, and less mass.

 

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Stability, however, is sacrificed with a lighter tripod; it is more prone to topple in high winds, or with a badly off-center load. In these circumstances, my loaded photo backpack provides ample ballast.

 

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I value the extra height afforded by the rapid center column, but do not find it otherwise necessary. If you don't need more than 65.75" height, I recommend the Gitzo 1348.

 

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This tripod is superior in every way except cost to the metal equivalent.