rui_wang3
-
Posts
73 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by rui_wang3
-
-
<p>I looked at the DK-20 rubber eyepiece. It seems it is not designed for the DK-20C dioptic lens--it fit but very tight. See the link below, click on link 'comment'.<br>
"I was reading some other reviews that said the Diopter won't allow you to use the rubber eye cup. Well my D5100 uses the DK-20 eye cup. which is very common. Its a snug fit but it will work."<br>
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-DK-20c-Eyepiece-correction-selected/dp/B00009R8TO#customerReviews<br>
The DK-20 eyecup is very cheap so I guess I will buy one. <br>
I wonder if there's one specifically made for DK-20C dioptic lens.</p>
-
<p>I am nearsighted so I bought a -3 DK-20C dioptic lens for my D610. However, I can't find any rubber eyecup for this dioptic lens. Are there any for sale, even 3rd party ones on Ebay?<br>
Thanks!</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Hi,<br>
Reviews says that A3000 electronic viewfinder is low resolution. Has anyone tried manual focus on A3000? Is it very difficult?<br>
Thanks!</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Those are great photos, Ian! Very impressive! I plan to buy an A7 when the price goes down a bit. I have a lot of manual lenses (I shoot Canon 5D II and Nex 3N. All my manual lenses have a NEX adapter). I can't wait to try those lenses on an A7!</p>
-
<p>Thanks everyone! I guess A7 should have no problem using legacy lenses. I will keep shooting with my Canon 5D Mark II and Sony Nex 3N until A7's price drops by a bit. </p>
-
<p>I own a Nex 3N and I use a number of legacy lenses (the kit lens, 16-50mm, is not sharp nor fast) with adapters. (M42 screw mount, Canon EOS mount, Konica, Contact/Yashica).<br>
The Sony A7 just came out and I plan to buy one when the price goes down. If I use my legacy lenses with adapters, I should be able to get full-frame image without dark corners, right? Has anyone tried a7 yet?<br>
Thanks in advance.</p>
-
<p>The reason I need to see clearly is that I don't like the kit lens (16-50mm) due to its distortion. So I ended up manual focusing a few Canon, Takumar, Vivitar, Tokina, and Yashica lenses on my Nex 3. Focus peaking works well, but I prefer 100% zoom for accurate focusing. When the sun is strong, it is difficult to see.</p>
-
<p>Yes, I turned on 'Sunny weather' and the LCD becomes a lot brighter. However, it is still not nearly as good as a real optic viewfinder. Is it possible to place something like a hood over the LCD?</p>
-
<p>I have a 5D Mark II and got this one because of the 16-50mm compact lens. However, under strong sunlight I can't see anything. It's a pain in the butt to use. Any tips? Or shall I buy a Canon SL1?</p>
-
<p>Okay, one more piece to add. My Tokina RL version is very susceptible to flare compared to modern lenses. Make sure you use a proper 49mm lens hood (that is designed for 28mm lens, or it will leave dark corners) or use you free hand while shooting into bright light sources.</p>
-
<p>This thread is old but I would like to chime in. I just bought a brand new Tokina 28mm F2.8 SL lens (Contax Yashica mount). I used an adapter and tested it on my Canon 5D Mark II against my Canon 16-35mm F2.8II. (tripod, shutter release cable, 10x liveview manual focus, wall chart)<br>
Canon has better corner sharpness at all tested apertures (2.8, 4, 5.6, 8). Center sharpness is about the same at 2.8 and 4. At 5.6 Tokina is slightly sharper. At 8 Tokina is sharper than Canon at the center.<br>
Canon has a lot more distortion at the corner. Overall I would sayTokina is better than Canon optically, due to Canon's egregious distortion at the corners.</p>
-
<p>I received the lens today! Very solid lens. I tested with my Canon 5D II. At 2.5/2.8 it is probably not as sharp as my Zeiss 135/2.8 or Tamron 90/2.8, or Canon 70-200mm F2.8 II, but it is sharp enough. Color and contrast are both very good.<br>
It is very compact--much smaller than Zeiss 135/2.8. I am very happy with my purchase!</p>
-
<p>Thanks for your advice! I tested with my tripod (with only 1 leg) and it worked wonderfully manual focusing under Live View. <br>
Tripod is good but some public places ban tripods. And it does take longer to set up a tripod.<br>
My tripod (with only 1 leg) stabilizes the image on the sensor a lot, even at 10x magnification. I can manual focus no problem. I need to use extra care though, so the camera does not move back and forth horizontally.</p>
-
<p>No, not event, just ordinary portrait. I certainly can use a tripod. However, I wonder if a monopod will be equally effective in holding the camera steady for liveview manual focusing.<br>
I just need to keep the camera steady so I can manual focus under liveview using a 135mm/f2.8 lens at 10x magnification.</p>
-
<p>I use a Canon 5D II and have a few manual focuses lenses for portraiture. For critical focusing I prefer liveview with 10x zoom. To keep the camera steady under liveview (so the image does not wobble), which is a better tool? A tripod or a monopod?<br>
A tripod is stable but it takes too much time to adjust (3 legs). Has anyone used monopod + liveview? What is your experience? I am thinking about investing in a monopod if it works with liveview. </p>
-
<p>I can't wait to try the lens. There are plenty of 105/2.5 lenses sold for slightly more than $100 at Ebay but the possibility of fungi growth is scary so I ended up spending twice as much on a mint copy from Japan.</p>
-
<p>Thank you for your comment! I finally bought a 'mint' condition Nikon 105/2.5 AI-S from Ebay for $265. I think the focal length better compliments the Nikon 50mm 1.4D. I am very excited!</p>
-
<p>Thank you for your replies! I will give Nikon 105/2.5 a try. I will spend more on a good copy off Ebay.<br>
I have used Nikon 50/1.4D and Zeiss 135/2.8 on my 5D II without any metering problem, and the focus confirmation works well. (Both adapters have focus confirmation.) When I buy Nikon lenses, I always look at lenses with aperture ring so I can use them on my Canon.</p>
-
<p>I considered the 85/1.8G. It is probably slightly better than 85/1.8D. But Nikon D3 has a built-in motor, so both lenses will autofocus. The 85/1.8D has an aperture ring, so I can use it on my Canon 5D II.</p>
-
<p>I can get it for around $120 off Ebay. Is this lens worth owning? I am debating between 105/2.5 and 85/1.8D. The latter cost more than $300 used. I am buying this for portraiture. I already own a 50/1.4D.<br>
I am a Canon shooter. I am buying this lens for my wife's Nikon D3.</p>
-
<p>My 85/1.8 no longer focuses accurately. Micro adjustment on 5D II does not work, as focusing error is not consistent. By focusing manually I still get very sharp images. <br>
The lens is 8-year old and I loaned it to a friend for a few months (but I don't think he damaged the lens or anything). I wonder if anyone experienced similar problem with this lens. Probably it is time to replace it?</p>
-
<p>I use 5D II and I bought a 3rd party battery because I use a battery grip that takes 2 batteries. The 3rd party battery was made in Korea. It holds less power than Canon battery but it is working and I have no problem with charging it using Canon battery charger.<br>
I agree with Bob. You may need to buy a separate battery charger for your 3rd party battery.</p>
-
<p>Thanks for your responses! I recently gave my T3i to my dad so I have only a 5D II. I am looking to buy a compact DSLR. K-5 seems to be reasonably priced and better built. I am debating between getting another Canon or K-5. I read a lot of nice things about K-5.</p>
-
<p>I have been a Canon shooter for years. I heard so many nice things about Pentax K-5's ergonomics features. With the price dropping, I wonder if I should give it a try. Have you used both Pentax and Canon (I use 5D II)? Is Pentax really better?</p>
Any Nikon D810 3rd party battery grip that boosts frame rate?
in Nikon
Posted
<p>OEM battery grip is kinda expensive. Any 3rd party battery grip boosts frame rate?<br>
Another question is: to boost frame rate to 7 fps, I need AA batteries in the grip, right?<br>
Thanks!</p>