dean_price

I would like to get a 16x20 in photograph printed on 20x24 in fine art paper, so that it has a border, on a fine art paper (inkjet printing).

I saw that West Coast Imaging is highly recommended, but they require a minimum $250 purchase. A 20x24 in print on Silver Rag or

Water Color Smooth is $73.34.

Aspen Creek Photo, my second choice, which is a sister company to West Coast Imaging, requires use of ROES software, which is

downloaded to your computer, BUT, I'm using Mac OS 10.4, and so I cannot use the software, and I'm unable to order a print from them

for this reason. Their cost for a 20x24 in print on Entrada Rag is $68.00.

So I'm looking for alternative places with similar quality and papers, if anyone has suggestions.

Thank you in advance.

Thank you everyone for your resplies! I am leaning away from the white frame idea, since I couldn't find a frame and mat

combination that would seem to work together, as the white of the mat and frame are invariably different. Maybe that's ok,

but I didn't have enough experience. I do remember very beautiful white frames in museums for photographs. But I think

now it may be easier to use a black frame.

Checking a few frame shops, framing a 16x20 in print, with an 8-ply mat, in a 24x28 in frame, which gives a 4 in border all

around, and with museum glass, costs roughly $440 - $550 depending on the framing shop!

So I guess there's a consensus that the lower part of the mat should be wider. I'll have to revise the framing to take that

into account.

I had not thought of Dibond, but it looks quite interesting..

I'll have to consider whether I should spend that much, or go with a kit frame.

I have two photographs that I have to get framed for an exhibit. One specifically that I'm concerned about is 16 x 20 in.

My instinct is to have it professionally framed, but I wanted feedback about what people think are best practices for framing and display.

My idea was a white wood frame and an 8-ply mat and archival glass. I have in mind frames that I've seen in museums, that have quite a

bit of depth, maybe 3 in. or more. I'm not sure if this would be prohibitively expensive. I guess though that sometimes I'm put off when I

see cheaply framed work. It seems to devalue the work. But I know that intrinsically there's no correlation between presentation and the

actual quality of the work.

Generally, for a 16 x 20 in. print, how big should the frame be? Is an off-white frame ok?

I also would like advice on printing and scanning, but I'll ask in a different post.

I think it's an elegant and functional design. Most pages though, on my iPad, are squeezed into the left two thirds of the

browser window, with very small text. Perhaps something in the code with page withds?

I'm not familiar with the murals in San Francisco, but generally something like that, is sponsored by the city and/or various

entities. There probably is quite a bit in the local press or blogs about them, perhaps even google maps with locations,

etc.

<p>I tried my first few photographs yesterday with a Fuji X100, with an identical setup that I intend to use with the Mamiya 7. The Fuji as a leaf shutter too, so I think I could duplicate the settings exactly in testing. This is the setup I tried for the first photographs:<br>

<img src="/photo/17468469" alt="" /></p>

Thank you for your detailed explanation and advice, which is very useful to me. I understand it in theory, but I realize in

practice I'll discover a few things I thought I understood I actually hadn't fully considered. I wanted to do a series of

portraits of shopkeepers, and also interiors and exteriors, and really needed to have enough flexibility and know how to

add flashlight both for fill, or as a main light in a dark interior, when needed, so these first few concepts will help me to run

through the first test exposures. I'll have to be able to think and solve different lighting situations on film, or have at least

some confidence that I'm trying something that makes sense.

I would like to use a Nikon SB 800 flash with a Mamiya 7ii, in non-TTL auto flash mode.

The instruction manual seems clear to me. The flash is set to "A" and pressing the +/- buttons to select subject distance, the display on

the flash will then indicate the aperture to set on the lens. Variations from the suggested aperture can be used for exposure

compensation.

My question is instruction #5 in the flash manual. It reads, "Set the camera to its highest flash sync shutter speed."

This I don't understand, because I though I would choose a shutter speed for ambient light.

Thank you for your help!

I'm not an expert in this area at all, but it seems that maybe there's some miscommunication, because don't modeling

agencies get work for models? I think they're viewing you as a paying client. I think usually, let's say a photographer has

an assignment from a client for an ad in a magazine or something like that, and they would have a budget which would

include money for models and make up people etc. I think the agency believes you want to hire models. Could that be

correct?

Flickr does have a partnership with Getty Images, where they license content from users, so maybe it could be something

to explore. Flickr though doesn't allow you to use their site for commercial purposes.

Many people use microstock sites to sell images, like Dreamstime or iStock Photo. With enough images, you could have

a pretty good revenue stream.

These seem very good to me as well. It may depend on the school, and how competitive it is to get accepted. If it's very

competitive, they may like to see more of a narrative, a specific commitment to certain issues, as your portfolio may be

interpreted as travel/tourist images in some instances. They may wish to see maybe a specific exploration of the issues of

steel workers, the environment, personal life, and of the wrestles as well, perhaps cultural aspects, something that shows

a specific commitment to the issues, a personal viewpoint, images made over a longer period of time, etc. The individual

images are strong it seems though.

I wouldn't buy a light meter because with a digital camera you can easily preview the exposure and make adjustments as

necessary.

Professional lighting can get expensive very quickly though.

I would also consider portability, in case you'd like to do environmental portraiture, or be on location anywhere.

You can also do a lot with an off-camera flash with a radio or other trigger and an umbrella or other modifier. That's how I

would start.

I use Facebook almost exclusively to keep track of news and events from arts organizations, museums and galleries. It

seems that 99% of them use Facebook, and it's quite useful to see everything in one place.