brandy_kimble

<p>Usually, I shoot indoors with fairly even and soft lighting. However, I am now shooting portraits outdoors during midday hours when the sun is fairly harsh. I shoot mainly in the shade, but since my subjects are older babies, sometimes they turn where the light is pretty harsh (parcial harsh light on side of face ). when this happens, should I meter the brighter part of their faces or the shaded part?</p>

<p>Hi Adriano!<br>

I use Nikon. Those are really old pictures haha! I use back button focusing, so I'm not sure if that button will still work in the way of locking my exposure? I have a Nikon d3000...</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

So, for almost a year now, I have been shooting in Manual mode and haven't given any of the other "advanced modes" a try (Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority). So I am use to taking a reading off of the subjects skin and setting my camera accordingly.<br>

<br />In AP mode, I noticed that I can still take a read off the skin and use exposure comp. to get desired results, however, won't my settings change once my sensor is pointed to the eye of my subject? I noticed that the shutter speed changes...</p>

<p>Any answer helps!</p>

<p>Thank you all in advanced :0)</p>

<p>Thank you all for the answers! Each answer has helped a ton! I practiced spot metering today on a darker toned person and realized when I spot metered on his face and under exposed it by two notches the exposure was perfect! So I will be playing around with it, and hopefully get the hang of it.</p>

<p>Also, is there a big difference between spot metering and matrix metering? Is one better than the other when it comes to indoor portraits?</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I am a newborn photographer and most of my images are taken indoors with soft natural window light.<br>

<br />I wanted to know how spot metering works and how to use it? </p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

<p>Thanks Ed!</p>

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>I am a newborn, baby, and child photographer and I currently posted a forum about how many images I should offer to my clients. Another member of this site suggested that I offer A la Carte instead of promising a certain amount of images to my clients (due to babies and children being unpredictable)</p>

<p> I am hoping that someone can explain A la Cart and how it works? I have never heard of it.</p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

<p>-Brandy</p><div></div>

<p>Michael Mowery,<br>

Thank you!</p>

<p>You answer was very help and makes complete sense :).</p>

<p>@Jay Smith</p>

<p>Why should I sell my images less than others?</p>

<p>Thanks to you both for taking the time to answer my question! It means a lot!</p>

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>So I am a beginning newborn/child portrait photographer and have been shooting for a little over 2 years.<br>

This year I'm just starting to charge a little bit.</p>

<p>Anyways, In a session I usually only get about 10-20 great images, but in a recent session I only got 8 due to the 5 month old moving so much.<br>

<br />I provide my clients with a basic edit (blemish fixes,color enhancements, etc) of each image along with dramatic edits (Black and white, sepia, etc) to double up on the images that I captured to give them more of a variety.</p>

<p>My question is is 10-20 enough? And when I am in a situation where I get less than 10 what should I do? Should I even consider the dramatic enhancements to be a completely different image (should I add in them in the count). Should I charge less?<br>

I really need help with this! <3</p><div></div>

<p>Hi! I love taking portraits, but I have just hit a bump in the road with one specific thing. When I photograph dark skinned people, not mater which metering technique I use, the photograph is always under exposed. I find it so frustrating because my whole family is black and it is so hard to photograph them lol. Any suggestions?</p>

<p> An example of how I edit my images. Basic color adjustments. Above is before, below is after.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Thank you everyone for the helpful knowledge. Also, I have been using Gimp for almost two years. I like it a lot, but then I got a hold of the "old" Adobe Photoshop CS2 and realized that the adjustments (as in levels and anything else that has to do with adjusting the color or changing the color completely) was much more powerful and accurate, if that makes any sense. However, I wanted to edit some of my RAW images using the CS2, but for some reason it will not let me upload my raw images (I use a Nikon D3000). So I thought that I i should probably upgrade my editor. And I am not quite a pro yet, I'm still learning a whole lot. I am more of an intermediate level. Also, whats the difference between an editor and an actual photoshop program? Don't they both do the same thing?</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all!<br>

I have been doing photography for a little while ad I want to start editing my images the best that I can, but I have no idea what photo editor to use. There are so many (The line of Adobe Photoshop and Elements) how do I know which to choose? I do many portraits, commercial,food, and nature photography. Is there a particular photoshop that I need? </p>

<p>Thank you!<br>

-Brandy</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for the tips and inputs! This helps a whole lot...especially the visuals! Thanks again :)<br>

-Brandy</p>

<p>Hi I am not new to photography, but I am new to using DSLR'S. I love taking portraits and I have heard that the best lens to use when doing so is the 50mm lens. Is it okay to use my kit lens for portraits??? And what about for newborn portraits?<br /> Thanks!<br /> -Brandy</p>