gideon_kok

Looking at the front of your D3200, at

the 7:30 position there is a little angled

switch on the edge of the lens mount.

This gets pushed in by the aperture tab

on your lens. If this does not engage the

error message does not disappear and

the shutter will not activate. Your tab

end might be a bit rounded and not

getting the switch in far enough,

causing intermittent problems.

I have a D3200 and got caught the

same way. Peter Hamm is correct. If

auto ISO is on the manual controls will

still appear to be changing ISO as you

wish. The manually selected ISO will be

displayed on the right hand side of your

rear screen but "ISO-A" will flash in the

middle. "ISO AUTO" will flash in the

bottom of your viewfinder but there is

no indication of what selection will be

used as you fire the shutter.

A modern 50mm would need to be

stopped down to a smaller aperture to

give useful sharpness. The optical

formula is not designed for close-up.

You would need a set-up with a

mechanical aperture control of sorts.

Even then I am convinced the iq will not

be as good as can be achieved with a

good macro.

If you will not need a macro lens rather

consider a film scanner instead

The D3200 always shows the manually

set ISO in the rear screen. This does not

change to the slected ISO value the

meter has at that moment when it is in

auto ISO. Instead it has an "auto-ISO"

flashing indicator nearby. Caught me

out a couple of times. Basically for me it

is easiest to begin with to have auto ISO

running and only take it off for

deliberate long exposures. As you pick

up experience, then set it via the front fn

button and the control wheel. (First

selecting the fn button to ISO control

via the menus of course)

Full summer blossoms, birds feeding

on my ripe pawpaws, storks and

pelicans in the containment ponds. All

the joys of a sub-tropical area of South

Africa.

I read in an earlier post somewhere that the 30s as a setting on

many cameras is actually 32 seconds long. That would throw out

the timing on your sequence. After a few steps it would be

attempting to trigger while the camera is still exposing . The actual

times for increasing full stops would be 1s, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32. That is

naturally more logical captain.

I found that the automatic fade

correction in my scanner software

saved me more time in correction. Only

revelant when you have faded colour

prints though.

Larger prints can be tricky to get set up.

The mirror idea sounds very practical.

This example looks more like a lighting difference. Closer flowers

are brighter than the rear. Warm lighting can also cause colour

histogram distortion. A big problem when mixing tungsten lighting

and flash. For a good test the lighting and target has to be more

balanced.

Add a title above and a description

below; or buy a different frame.

I have the s100 and it is nice but slow

to focus. Hauled it out at a colleague's

farewell and had to prefocus to get the

right moments. Second shot was a grip

and grin nightmare. Low light is best

approached with a larger sensor as

well. Good image for the money still if

you can find one on special price sale.

I am assuming above obvious

considerations such as live view use,

the lens being perpendicular to the

centre of the photograph, the

photograph properly flat and using a

good macro lens. I tried and was still

getting alignment issues. I decided to

line up the scanner for my old pictures

instead. And when the auto fade

correction kicked in I was even happier

Having astigmatism and different

degrees of far sightedness in both eyes

I quickly had to learn just how much the

brain works to interpret what the eyes

deliver. It makes for quite a

performance when I am asked to check

for level when someone is decorating. I

use a spirit level for the simplest of jobs

at home, and still measure both ways

the first time I use the level.

In general, for most software, changing

the target size setting while leaving the

dpi setting alone should have no impact

on the image. The dpi would just

change to reflect the new spread of the

image detail. Work with it, preferably in

lossless format and then do your final

formatting depending on the output

required.

When in electronic format the size and

dpi resolution are just add-on

properties of the image. The vital

properties in electronic format are your

pixel counts. If you change the dpi

rating the software assumes you wish

to uprate or downrate the pixel numbers

and uses the algorithms to interpolate

or downsample your image. Why have

this complication as part of your work

flow at all? Just go in at the highest

pixel numbers feasible and remain

there for as long as necessary and only

set the output size when printing. Dpi

should just remain a calculated result

of your image size, not part of your

processing work flow to my

understanding. If your original scan

pixel numbers matches your final

highest output required that would be

the best outcome.

I own the 70-300 but always end up

using either +-90 or 300. Just got the

85 f1.8, wonderful if I am careful to

steady my hands. If I could fit a 180 f2.8

or 300 f4 in my budget the zoom would

be downgraded to using in rough

conditions. The softness full open

doesn't matter that much in a

rainstorm.

The biggest factor in sharpness is the

shape and quality of the lens glass. And

here is none.

The way I imagine it is to visualise lines

from the subject going through the

pinhole. The same point back of the

camera will be larger than the hole to

begin with. The way to make the image

sharper is to make the hole smaller.

Unfortunately physics start to spoil the

party at the edge of the hole. Here the

wavyness of photons spread the light

out. This diffraction effect is always

there but becomes more important as

the hole is made smaller. Pesky

physics!

Indoors is a relative term. Indoors can

be anything from large windows facing

the sun to so dark you struggle to read

or photograph anything moving. If the

light meter in your camera made that

suggestion it would be about eight

times darker if what you are pointing

the camera at is something that

averages to mid grey.

I have the D3200 and 70-300vr and

have been chasing the Zululand birdlife

around for a few attempts. Nice

combination when you get close.

However going to extreme crops I do

not think the D3200 would give that

much better crops than the D7000. This

lens at 300 mm gives less than 6mp

perceived resolution on the D7000

(according to DXO mark). The extra

resolution will not give you significant

more cropping potential because your

combination is mostly lens limited to

start with.

The Nikon tele converters will not work

with that lens. The dx lens reaches

further back and might touch even the

1.4 x converter.To get a longer effective

lens you will need to haul out lots of

cash. Next step in price for Nikon is a

300mm f4 with a 1.4 tele converter.

Roughly double again the price of your

camera and lens together. Other brands

of teleconverter might work but the

view will be dim and auto focus slow or

not functional. Optical quality also gets

a knock. Finally just to clarify terms

used, an extention tube is the term used

for a focus extention tube. That gives

you a closer focus for macro work only.

A lens on an extention tube will not

focus very far from the front of the lens.

My favourite wide angle photograph I grabbed with my Galaxy S2.

The point and shoot comes second. Only recently I got a dslr and

the difference was clearer to me. Low light and I get pictures that

were impossible before. I can now pick more interesting selections

from most surroundings using the longer zoom. I believe the tool

influences the images you look for and not only because of angle of view. For low angle close views the phone can occupy points of view the dslr cannot fit in. Except now my cat turns his head from the phone in case the LED shines in his eyes again.

I have both the D3200 and the Canon

Legria M56 camcorder. For baby and

general video the camcorder beats the

camera hands down. Ergonomics of the

dslr with a mounted mic does not say

one handed operation while the other is

constantly dangling around baby and

baby's "stuff". However you would need

to go one model up from mine to get the

more generic mic port. The real

question I would still have before

deciding is do you really need 1080

resolution? That level depends on your

delivery method. Blueray disk players or

very expensive projectors are not that

common in the corporate world yet as

far as I know.

A quick google will give you a useful link to a

question and solution on a different

forum. For now look up in your manual

that using an unknown status flash on

your Nikon can fry your circuitry. The

trigger voltage on this unit is probably

too high. You could use it on manual

using a "hot shoe safe adaptor" device

but say goodbye to your guarantee in

that case.