richard_markus

Where are you located? Kindly provide a full description of the camera body and lens condition. # of actuations? Age? Used professionally?

Suggest you reach out to a friend with a Canon or go to a camera store or pawn shop and see if the problem persists when you mount an EF lens. Check YouTube 5D Focus Screen Replacement to see if it is missing in your camera.

You can check with Canon if the mirror arm upgrade has been done on your camera. It was done free of charge due to a manufacturer's defect, although that was a long time ago. You never know,,,. At the same time they can check the shutter count and do a cleaning. The 5D (original referred to as Mark 1) sensor frequently requires cleaning. Do not try to clean the mirror and sensor yourself.

If your focus screen is missing I may be able to help, I may have a original Canon 5D Mark 1 focus screen from the time I upgraded my focus screen. For the cost of shipping and handling you may be in luck. If you are interested provide your contact details. I will have time next weekend to look for it. It is fairly straightforward to replace the focus screen yourself. Remember clean dust free surfaces when you take the lens off.

Cheers,

Richard

You have all the lenses in your kit that you require. I agree with most of the above comments, particularly getting a full frame body which will provide better coverage for landscape with your 50mm and provide a better aspect for portrait the 70-200mm, 85mm and 50mm lenses. An used 6D Mark 1 is the most reasonably priced full frame body, although the discount pricing on the 6D Mark 2 is quite attractive and may be a better leap forward. After obtaining a full frame body you may want to consider a wide angle lens for landscape. There are lots of Canon OEM options out there depending on your shooting style and budget. In my case when shooting landscape and street, I often bring along a Samyung 14mm and Canon 28mm IS.

Canon EF 70-200 f/4 IS lens, with tripod collar -- Mark 2 still available?

Jeff,

I have had a battery drain problem both my 6D and found the issue to be the GPS. The battery drains when the camera is turned off. One solution is to turn the GPS off when I am finished using the camera for the day. The simple solution I use is to remove the battery when I am finished using the camera for the day. Appears the GPS keeps draining the battery even when the main on/off switch is in the off position. Try the above methods as see if it works.

Also, I have found aftermarket non-Canon batteries to drain very quickly. Are you using original Canon batteries?

Did you ever sell the lens?

<p>You indicated: "I'll be travelling to London for a short business trip". Although have not provided information on what you are planning the visit / photograph. I will make the assumption you will be in the core downtown area of London and are planning to photograph historic and primarily architectural sights, and not people. Correct me it this is the incorrect assumption.<br>

The two lenses you described are quite different. The 85mm is an excellent portrait lens and surprisingly sharp, as well as good for low light. It is relatively small and light. It is not a lens I would use to photograph monuments and architecture where I want to capture large structures in tight shooting locations. The 40mm is very light, small and a solid performer in good light situations. It will be good for photographing monuments and architecture in tight shooting situations where you can not step back a distance. I would not bring both lenses for a relatively short trip.<br>

You posed the question with the limitations of one of the two lenses. If I were visiting London for just a few days on a business trip I would bring my 14mm Samyung and 35mm Canon IS for my full frame digital 6D or simply my Fuji x100T with a 35mm equivalent fixed lens. I would bring along a sling to relieve the weight on my neck and provide security from thieves.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p align="left"> </p>

It really perturbs me to read this thread. As a society, especially in America (I live in Canada), we have an agressive

litigations environment, when in reality the courts should be used as a last resort to deal with damages. You will not get

what you want; the images if you sue at this point. In fact by posting public negative feedback within 4 months of the

shoot, bring in the authorities (BBB, etc..), and threatening to sue significantly reduces the chance to acheive your

objective, and shows a level of immature impatience on your part. Slamming the the photographer and initiating a law suit

will only get you at best a result of having your money returned with no images. All the photographer has to say is "the

hard drive crashed".

Did you check out the photographer's portfolio and references before your hired him/her? Was this an outdoor shoot with

high contrast sunlight and heavy shadows? Sounds like the photographer was inexperienced in this type of envirinment

and as a result the images are sub-optimal. That said, you have to make a decision: do you want the less than perfect

images taken at the time of the actual event or your money back? You do not get both. So, follow the forgoing advice and

all you wll get back at most, is your money and do another staged shoot.

I suggest you contact a reputable congenial professional photo editor, check out their references/portfolio, explain the

situation, and ask them to engage the photographer with a written authorization from you to get copies of the RAW

images. At that point you can meet with the photo editor to see what can be done with the images. Do not bring-up the

threat of litigation, otherwise no one will want the hassle of delaing with you. You may also want to contact an associated

of the photographer in a friendly manner to elicit their assistance in securing the raw images.

<p>I am looking for a faster relacement for my full frame non-L 28-135 IS. Is there anything in the works in this range or similar i.e. 28 - 80 range for full frame? </p>

<p>A Fuji GSW 6x9 may fit your needs. Although the back and lens are not interchangeable, it considered the Texas Leica of the medium format options. Solid and straightforward operation. Very sharp wide angle lens. Even has a built in level for landscapes. </p>

<p>What a pity you missed the moment...to win the approval and support of the bride's mom. <br>

The quality of the image(s) and Wal-Mart / drug store processing from a P&S could never rival professional photographs.<br>

You surely blew any cross-marketing potential. <br>

Suggest you invest in some therapy, lighten-up and recognize that it is the family's event, not a professional studio shoot. </p>

 

<p>Glass optics is one of the most critical elements in creating an image, not the camera body. Contrary to a prior comment, with respect I think it is entirely appropriate to suggest you have your question backwards. If you are looking to be frugal, trade in the 5D M2 for a more reasonably priced digital EOS, say 50D, and purchase a Canon 100mm f2.8 USM Macro. <br>

Alternatively, as suggested earlier use screw in diopters, but use high quality diopters such as Nikon 5T and 6T (I beleive Canon also makes high quality diopters) with step up or down rings to fit your lens. The price difference between cheap quality (price) and expensive glass diopters is not significant, although the resulting image will be significantly better. For many years I used diopters on the font of a Canon 100-300mm to create quite spectacular results.</p>

<p >Wana trade your 5D M2 for the Nikon Diopters? I will even throw in a Canon 100-300mm... </p>

 

I have been shooting JPEG / RAW files with my Canon 5D and flawlessly

downloading to my XP O/S desktop using Adobe Photoshop Elements 6. I

particularly like the integrated Elements 6 file organization, slide show and file

sharing (email) functions.

I just purchased a new Dell laptop with a Vista O/S. Adobe Photoshop Elements 6

does not recognize or download Raw files and only downloads the JPEG files. I

know I can download the Raw files from the Canon 5D using Canon's programs

(Zoom/Image Browser). Is there any way to get Adobe to recognize and download

Canon 5D Raw files in a PC Vista O/S environment?

Thank you all for the information.

The on switch was set to the correct position i.e. line above on, I was half pressing the shutter to activate the meter, and was not using the Full Auto Mode.

I will try as Puppy Face suggested doing a full reset and updating the firmware.

Based on the feedback I am pleased it is not a design flaw, and hopefully not requiring service...

I am unable to re-adjust the exposure compensation with the control dial. This

happens when I used exposure compensation in the prior session. The only way I

can reset the exposure compensation is to reset all camera settings (CF1).

For me this is a serious drawback.

Has anyone experienced this design flaw? Any fixes?

Can someone help in explaining which function will be lost and which will work

if I use my old Speedlight 430EZ with a Canon 5d body.

Thanks

Will a Canon Video Zoom Lens CL 5-15mm 1:1.6-2.6 work properly with

a Canon EOS film and EOS digital body?