sam_clay

Wow brilliant replies thank you SO much. I have screen shot the replies so I can try to get my head around it. Thank you both endlessly for taking

the time to help me. I will be reading these replies time and time again so I can try to get the best out of it. Huge thankyou for taking the time to help

me. Thanks

Hiya,

I have just purchased the elinchrom elb 400 to work with my nikon d4 s.

 

I have used off camera flash for a while, but always used ttl with the pocket wizards, simply adjusting the flash output with the AC3.

 

I understand that shutter will control ambient light, the aperture controls the amount of flash to hit the subject (may need to verify this), but

now I will be all manual with this strobe,

 

Can anyone help me with how to get the best out of this unit please ? I have searched online with little results which is why I ask you

guys.

 

The numbers on the pack start at 1.7 and go up to 6. ( really not sure what this means only that 6 is the brightest output etc)

 

There is no helpful manual with the pack.

 

Thank you

Thanks for all help .....oh and Andrew yeah of course you can have my D4s no worries :p :D I will use the machine gun

factor at some point, but it's not needed to shoot a kid sitting on the floor looking cute ahahhah

Hello all,

I am having a bit of an issue with my website. The designer is very hard to get hold (how annoying) and he never appears to give me any

info.

On facebook I run my high Rez files through an action which preps for Facebook and save as png. The quality has improved since I have

done this.

Now for my website, is there a perfect size and does it matter whether it's JPEG or png ? I understand the larger the file the longer it

takes to load the site. But I don't want more then twenty photos on site anyway.... Does this make a difference ? What size should I make

them please ? Any help much appreciated as ever

Thank you

Brilliant thank you so much I really value your help. Really this is terrific. I am so used to using SD cards that after I

bought the D4s last week and looked at the memory card slot I was quite confused. I now have the Lexar professional

32gb card and the Lexar professional reader, so this should work fine. I tried the camera out for the first time yesterday.

Gosh it's fast.....but I didn't really enjoy shooting at the 11fps. Seemed huge over kill given that I was just practising on my

son. if I have any problems I shall ask you guys for your help. Thanks again......never been an expert at computers :)))

Thanks Andrew that's a great response and I value what you say.

Yes I bout the same reader, which I simply bought because it was more expensive then the rest (so must be good haha) and I would be

gutted if something cheap messed up any of my files or camera.

I guess I shall wait until the reader comes before connecting it to the computer. I wouldn't want to risk anything.

Yes, I have never installed the software either, mainly out of laziness and I didn't get why exactly I needed it. I just want my files in the

RAW form for me to edit.

Looking at the manual....it simply says you can edit in the Nikon software. I wouldn't want to do that. So that's good to hear that it's not

imperitive for me to install. I think you are right. I don't think it's needed. I don't have this new card that the D4s takes......I don't know

anything about this new card apart from that it's pricey. So I just went with a decent CF card.

Thanks very much for your help. I do hope the reader comes soon, I really want to get editing these first shots on the new toy

Thanks again :D

Hiya

I was hoping you may help me please. I have bought the D4s and

the camera all seems very clear having used the D600 for the last

year. As a move to a pro body....it needs a CF card.

This may sound a silly question but I always simply just put the

small memory card into the computer from yhe d600 which would

automatically load into iphoto or lightroom etc.

There is no slot for the larger cf card used with the d4s so I have

bought a card reader (yet to arrive). Apparently you can load photos

using the usb straight from camera but you need to install the

software too. My mac doesnt take cds...its a new one whereby mac

ha e ditched the disc. I have read the part in the manual relevant....

but I am at a loss what to do ?

Normally I shoot raw and I simply need access to these files

straight to lightroom and photoshop.

any help appreciated

Thank you x

s

<p>thanks so much for all these answers, this is so very helpful advice, I shall take your advice and hire one for the day and see how it goes for me - thank you. You are right i think. On some pictures, I had underexposed (yes they were on manual), and these were indeed the ones whereby I could make out noise at 1600 after PP. Aha - I see. i shall try AP mose and see how this plays. thanks also for kind worlds about my pictures.....the ones on this site are well over a year old mind, I have got a ton better these days hahaha but thanks so much, I shall upload more recent pictures soon. thanks everyone for your advice, i shall hire one and have a play - but I shall take your advice regarding the exposure....its nice to understand that bit mnore so thanks so much :)) </p>

<p>hhhmmm some interesting points. the picture posted with the d600 at iso 1600 looks way NOISY in my opinion though.<br>

here is an expample<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/17859820<br>

in fact, this aint so bad...I will try find another one.....this is the thing i don't understand, with some shots it was great, and others not so great with the same settings. You are probably right to observe the underexposure. I do tend to under expose sometimes so maybe this is the cause</p>

<p>thanks</p>

Hiya

 

I am thinking of investing in the D4 as I need a top body

that handles high iso really well. I have the D600 and I

shoot weddings.... I am new to weddings but without

flashiI don't like pushing the iso up beyond 800. I hear the

600 can handle 1600 really well....but I find it doesn't. I

hate noise. I notice that in the church the iso needs to be

at 1600 plus without flash sometimes and this worries me.

Do you think the D4 is better for this situation please? I

would like some opinions and some comparisons if

possible

Thank you

<p>wow thats soooo cool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I done it !! i spent ages yesterday thinking about buying software. thats so simple.....you guys are genius, brilliant xx (sam is short for samantha) x</p>

<p>ah thanks so much guys - I love this forum people are so kind and helpful - i shall try it out xx</p>

<p>Hiya</p>

<p>I have my first big wedding fayre coming up, and I am hoping to take my MAC .....the photos come up so lovely on this huge screen and I would like to have a video of them rolling by one by one pausing for 5 seconds on each of them....(not sure how many I want to play on loop.<br>

I was wondering if there were any ideas or software that I could do this with ? (maybe the wrong forum post)<br>

thanks</p>

<p>hi all,<br>

i just shot my first wedding and i am really happy with the outcome. i emailed a few to the client and they are so delighted....I would like to present them in my office on my computer and I was wondering where I could upload the high res files and have a sort of video display ? I have a really large mac and they look great on it, so ideally i would like them put up large and wthe client simply flicks through or rather each image is shown for 5 seconds and then moves to the next - sorry I am a bit ignorant about this side of things</p>

<p>thanks you</p>

Gaaaaaa I must have accidentally swathed from raw

to.jpeg! That's annoying about this camera I seem to do

that a lot gggrrr thanks guys - problem sorted.

Yup! Got it! Thanks! The lens didn't automatically go to

fx. So pressed the Fn button on the side and now it's fx

format thanks forbhelping ;)

Hiya

 

Me again!

 

You can probably tell by now I am not the technical sort!!

Hhahah

My 35mm 1.4 arrived yesterday. Great lens.

Through the view finder it looks like a dx lens and I know

it's not. Well it can be both.

It has the crop frame in sight and when I take a

shot.....well it's cropped.

Reminds me if my 10-24 nikon which is fine because that

IS a Dx lens.

Am I being daft?

The fx button has disappeared from the top of the screen

also. Confused because I thought these lens ' s just went

with whatever body they would be put on?

This is my first sigma lens, it's kinda hefty really but I

haven't tried it out yet.

Thanks

Thanks for all the tech info. So what number should it be

on if shot in Raw please? I am offered a variety to choose

from and I thank everyone for thier answers and

understand but I simply need the number the qual button

should be on. It's always set in Raw so I don't think jpeg

has anything to do with it.

Thanks

Yes I understand! But is is set on raw! It has nothing to do

with number of shots (wouter)... Basically if I press the

qual button and turn the dial in offers a variety of

numbers? I understand all about jpeg quality but my

camera says it's in Raw so why are these number options

there? And what should the correct number be? It's in

Raw all the time on my camera sorry guys but does

anyone have a D600 who can tell me specifically what's

up!?

I agree it's a button that really should not be there.

Thanks for responses but I simply need the exact number

looking through the view finder that the dial should be on

even if set in Raw.

Thanks

Thanks wouter as ever - but what about the button on my

camera which says qual? When I look through the view

finder and scroll the dial the numbers on the far right in

brackets move around?? The bit next to Iso I don't get it??

Hi

 

I shoot in Raw. I want the best quality for when I edit and I

don't care about memory space etc.

The qual button annoys me.

Sometimes I press it in error. I have done this today. What

should the qual button be set to for the best possible non

compressed image? I thought it only applied to jpeg so I

am confused the numbers still roll if I move the dial.

Any explanation? And what should the number be that I

use?

Many thanks indeed

Sam

Brilliant answer Dan I thank you endlessly!!

Yep! Flash is a complicated thing and I shall keep it

simple as you suggest and compensate accordingly. I will

study it further when I have the time.

I kinda understand off camera flash and have triggers etc

but shall leave this until I have more time and room for

error.

I may go off camera for portrait later in the day, but

probably not because I think I am safe enough with my

current natural light knowledge to carry off some great

shots.

Thanks so much for the info I really appreciate it. Just

hoping to get the ceremony out of the way and

concentrate on what I feel comfortable with.

Endless thanks :)))

Thanks Stephen great tip. Although my comment I meant

1/60th!! Good tip thanks x

Actually the penny may have just dropped! If I put the

camera in manual mode and set the shutter to 1/6th and

leave it at that, Iso 400, then set the aperture according to

depth I want then the Ttl should expose the shot correctly?

Given that it's the aperture which controls the power of

flash, so long as I stay within the distance the flash

suggests I should be ok? And that would give me a bit

more control then if in P?

Remember in this instance I am trying to get good

exposure quickly candid documentary style. Basic stuff.

Is this good?

Hiya

 

I am worried.

 

I have been a fairly successful natural light photographer

for around a year, portraits etc, lifestyle documentary.

 

However, I have been invited to shoot a wedding this

weekend. don't worry it's unpaid for work experience, but

being a perfectionist I want to get the indoor/church shots

nailed as best possible.

 

I have a nikon D600 and D3100.

 

I own the 70-200 Vr11, the 35mm 1.4, 60mm macro

(myvfavourite believe it or not), the 85 1.8, and some bog

standards which will stay at home.

 

I have the Sb700 and a sb40 flash.

 

I was hoping for some help. Because I am.new to flash.

 

I understand this - aperture controls flash power

dependant on distance to subject etc, and shutter controls

ambient.

 

Thing is, I want to use TTL in the church. I understand

that in keeping the camera in manual and setting it up to 3

steps underexposed - Ttl will deal with the situation fairly

well. (confirmation?)

However, for the church I may just put the camera in P

mode and basically let the camera and flash do the

thinking. Also in matrix metering.

Reason being, is this part of the wedding I want to be

quick candid documentary style. I won't have the time like

I usually do to do much else.

The lighting isn't great.

 

Based on the lens I have mentioned what would you use in

this tiny church (I fear my flash isn't powerful enough at

200mm?).

 

My other question is this: I am so worried that if I use my

70-200 on P mode the camera will get it wrong.

 

Basically I need crystal.clear sharp shots using flash

quickly in Ttl.

 

Maybe aperture priority? So I control depth or will

thisbhave no consequence with TTL?

 

I am.fine in natural light and can be very creative - the

church I just want quick well exposed shots using Ttl.

 

What modes would you suggest I use, which lens and

why?

 

I know many people scorn P or automatic, but I need to

keep this part as simple as possible given my limited

flash experience.

 

Help Very much appreciated.

 

Like I say - it's for a friend free of charge..... I am studying

flash. This part worries me.

 

Many thanks