gwenyth_m
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Posts posted by gwenyth_m
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<p>and here is one more...</p><div>
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<p>Ok, I will attempt to post some more images. I uploaded the files here to photo.net first. It could very well be my eyes are playing tricks on me and I am just not used to what low light images can look like, as until recently I tried to avoid low light.<br>
<img src="/photo/17371724" alt="" /></p>
<p><img src="/photo/17371722" alt="" /></p>
<p><img src="/photo/17371725" alt="" /></p>
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<p>here is a post to a link. I can't get it to upload here. Thanks!</p>
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<p>hello all,<br>
I am going to attempt to put an example in here. I adjusted the white balance slightly in LR4. It's not the most in focus shot, but it shows the noise that I am talking about.<br>
settings: SS: 1/100 F1.8 ISO 3200<br>
<img src="https://www.facebook.com/gwenyth.murphy/photos#!/media/set/?" alt="" /></p>
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<p> Thanks for the input all. I will upload a sample picture when I am home, that may show better what I am experiencing.</p>
<p>I agree the 50inch “monitor” is extreme. I usually have the images much smaller and the various sliders and toolbars open in Lightroom. So I am probably viewing only 25-30 inches onscreen of the image, which is still gratuitously large I imagine. I tend to sit midway between the couch which is on the far wall and the screen (maybe 1.5- 2 feet away at most.) I have had a circular discussion with my husband for the last several years about needing an actual monitor, not the biggest tv screen possible. Obviously, I am losing thus far. : ) And with limited space in our apartment… I don’t have much of an option. I have considered a Wacom tablet to supplement what I see on the tv at a more normal size, but I am not sure that would do anything either.</p>
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<p>Thanks!<br>
I am basing noise levels off what is visible on the lcd screen on camera and also how the image looks sooc in Lightroom. I normally shoot RAW and some large jpeg depending on what I am doing. I do, do some noise reduction in LR, but try to avoid photoshop as I have a tendency to make things look over smooth, if that makes sense. But I am most concerned about the noise that is visible even from the lcd, even cranking iso up to just 1600.</p>
<p>Normally I shoot, upload. Do basic corrections in LR and rarely in photoshop. I tend to print around 16x24 to 20x30 or so. I do usually change my resolution to 180ppi, from the 72 it is defaulted at. It could be my tv ‘monitor’ as it is quite overly large, in my opinion at 50inches. I am admittedly a little post processing software illiterate, so I try to get the best image I can sooc. I am learning and watching tutorials, but of course no one is great at it over night.</p>
<p>As for lenses. I have the 17-55 f4.5 kit, the 55-250 f4 and the 50 1.8. Right now I am a mixed bag, as I am learning, and learning more. (I am not using auto however, I have been shooting full manual for about 1.5 years and program or AV mode before that.) landscapes and more ‘street’ style are my goals.</p>
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<p>Hello all,<br>
I have a couple of questions. The first, primary question is- I have my computer hooked up to our plasma tv in the name of space saving. I would like to get the tv calibrated so that my prints match what I am seeing on the screen. I am considering spyderpro or spyder express. However, I do not want to purchase on and have it not work. Is there a recommended calibration tool for use on a plasma tv?</p>
<p>Secondly, and I may need to go over the canon forums to ask this. I currently have an old, but steadfast canon t1i. I am desperate to upgrade, as the noise levels after ISO 800 are just terrible. And frankly, I need something that performs well in low light. I have done all the cleaning I am comfortable doing, is this something that may be helped by stopping by the local camera shop and having them do a more thorough sensor cleaning? I am saving to purchase the 6d, but I am not sure if it would be worth investing in some more glass before investing in the new body. I am just feeling terribly limited by the t1i. Right now I only have one lens that will fit with the full frame, the ever popular 50 1.8. So I am wondering if it may be more beneficial to expand my glass first. I would like the 100mm f2.8; possibly the 35 f2; an 85 and a decent longer zoom. (The t1i is at around 25k shutter clicks.)</p>
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<p>Thanks all :-) I will look into expanding my lens selection first., and maybe look at a used rebel for a back up camera. I do love my T1i, and maybe it is user error why it feels slow- usually when shooting continuous without the external flash and having to rely on the on board flash to recycle- which is sooo slow sometimes. I only have a vivtar df383 flash... and it is finicky and overheats with extended use.</p>
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<p>I do plan on handling anything in store first before I plunk down the cash. : ) Even with the T1i, if I am out all day shooting, by the end of the day my hands are sore and my fingers cramped up from handling the camera all day. I don’t even use the battery grip, because it is too much, though I would love the ease of adding one to my camera body permanently- it just feels way too massive. By tiny hands, I guess picture a petite woman, with petite hands… and that’s what I’m working with.</p>
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<p>I only have the kit 18-55 lens, the 55-250 and a 50.1.8. So currently the only lens that would upgrade well into the future is the 50 1.8. In my list of “would love to have lenses” are the: 70-200 2.8 L IS (made the “mistake” of renting it once!), something like the 24-70 2.8; and perhaps something wider, but not fisheye. I have also looked at the 35 2.0; and possibly something in the 80-85mm range, and 28mm. (I like primes, but I also like the ability to zoom when needed. So I guess I am still finding my way on that topic.)</p>
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<p>Which EOS body would you recommend for an advanced beginner with a very tight budget (ie: no money to buy FF)? I have the t1i, and I like it- but I would like to upgrade as I am starting to get frustrated by certain features on the t1i, like the frames per second, not handling low light real well without a lot of noise. I have has this camera for almost 3 years, and am at around 20,000 shutter clicks. I have been looking into the T3i and the T4i, and I think the T3i still may be the better choice. I also have tiny hands, so size is a factor for me. Which body would you all recommend to someone that would eventually like to become more than just a hobbyist, but doesn’t have the funds for the more expensive full frame quite yet (but yet would like to throw their current camera body out a window some days.). I would rather not spend a ton on a body right now, and instead save the left over $ for a good lens collection for when I do eventually make the leap to FF. thoughts?</p>
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<p>Thanks all. I was just really curious. I have started recently using the back button to focus, and I find that it is easier for me to focus and recompose my shot if needed. I am still learning my 50mm 1.8, and it often misses focus, or is soft- which is more than likely user error, the back button is helping me to get more “good” shots though. Although when I first got this lens it was so super sharp. So I don’t know if I am getting more discerning about focus, or if it was just such a change from the kit lens because it is faster! (Or if it has to do with it being more sensitive to my shaky hands because it doesn’t have the IS.)</p>
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<p>I don't know if how you can use the back button focus option for AF, if you can also manually focus and then lock the focus using the back button option? but then the more I think about it, I suppose because the focus was done manually, it would be locked in anyway.</p>
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<p>I am just curious more than anything, and I am not sure where to post this. Today a LOT of people rely on autofocus to focus their images. BUT most lenses still come with the option to manual focus. So which one is better? Do they both serve a purpose? Are you considered to be shooting in full manual if you are still allowing the camera to autofocus on your set points for you? I shoot in manual mode now, but I am wondering if I am missing something by not also manually focusing and then using BBF to lock in the focus. Thoughts?</p>
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<p>Thanks. The reason I am looking into a new lens is after getting my 50mm- I have had it pretty much non-stop on my camera for the last year. Now when I use the zooms… they don’t seem as clear to me, of that makes sense? So that’s why I’m looking into building a prime set, because the zooms aren’t as awesome as they were when I first upgraded to the dslr a few years ago.<br>
My other dilemma is if I should forget camera specific gear for the moment and upgrade my computer (laptop). It is around 8 years old. I’m really not a mac person. I currently have a dell xps 17inch—I think one of the first generation xps’s. and it has been upgraded and maxed out to its capacity already.</p>
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<p>Wondering if anyone here can help me decide: I have a $500 gift of cash from my mom for photo gear; as she got overwhelmed by my amazon wish list of stuff. Now, of course, I don’t know what I want to get, I would like to get the most “bang for my buck.” I currently have the T1i, with an 18-55kit lens, the 50mm 1.8, and the 55-250mm lens. I also have a nice bag, a vivatar df383 flash, wireless remote, tripod etc.</p>
<p>I am considering the 35mm f2 lens, or the 60mm macro lens. (I also have a few other ones in my wish list) Along with a backdrop stand and possibly the standard backdrops to go along with the other ones I have, a reflector, and clamps. Possibly a 3tb external drive and LR software. But I really don’t know which lens to get. What would you get if you were starting out and had the basics I have. I will be looking to upgrade my camera body next year (already planned for) to something like a T3i or maybe a 7D. (I feel nowhere near ready for a FF).</p>
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<p>I have the 18-55mm kit lens, the 55-250mm, and the 50mm. I have a flash up on the hot shoe which is on and set to e-ttl. I notice the most issues with the 50mm. Last night I attempted to take some pictures of some equipment, in my living room with the overhead light on and the flash on in manual mode( and av and auto because it was having such trouble focusing). Settings were around 1/250-1/1000s, f3.5- 5.0, and iso at 400 and then at auto iso. But this happens outside in the shade, indoors in low light, on sunny days facing away from the sun. etc. There are also times when the camera itself seems to lock and it won’t allow pictures to be taken until the unit is turned off and on. :/</p>
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<p>Question: it seems like my autofocusing is off. The lenses (all 3) are having trouble and zoom back and forth trying to focus on something. Then when I go to push the entire way down to snap, it tries to focus again. It’s like I have to focus and snap really fast. I have the camera set to al servo (t1i). Manual focusing seems to be fine. (my eyes are just terrible so I don’t always trust them for focusing.) Is this my camera trying to force me into all manual, or what! LOL. any help would be appreciated.</p>
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<p>I'll upload a picture later. But it is definetly a 20mm. :-) Why the difference in worth with the two types of mounting? is the breechlock older and more tried & true? You are probably right about the 75-200. I'll double check and post again when I am home.</p>
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<p>Hello all,<br>
I have a couple questions. First, I inherited a canon a-1, with several FD lenses. The 75-200mm, 20mm ( I believe both of these are 2.8), and a 50mm 1.8 SSC. I know that I can get the adapter to use them on my digital body, and I understand that I lose an fstop doing so. I do not entirely understand what I “gain”, as my camera body has the 1.6 cropped sensor, and the adapter give 1.25x I think- which I think changes the mm amount- but that still confuses me. (But it is also my understanding that you can take the glass out of the Bower adapter?) The 20mm wide angle has the metal ring around the mounting area- the other two don’t (not entirely what this means for these lenses)<br>
I am wondering what you can all tell me about my new, “old” camera. I would like to keep it, because I don’t think it is worth a whole ton of money. I don’t want the lenses to go to waste, even though I know they won’t be perfect on the digital body.</p>
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Oh and I have a slightly older rebel, the t1i. :)
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THANK YOU!!! It worked. Photos are restored!! The card got corrupted somehow. I knew you guys would have a solution. I
also updated cs4. I haven't tested a cr2 file in it yet, but I will tomorrow. I only recently got the courage to shoot in. Raw.
But it is so much better. :)
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<p>I am hoping someone can help me. Here is the issue. I did a photoshoot for a family. I clicked through the images onsite and everything looked great. I got home and the camera tells me there are no images. So I ran a recovery program, pc inspector, on the memory card (a promaster). The program found all the CR2 raw files. They look great in thumbnail view, I can even open to edit in DPP for canon. Then I get a decoding error when I try to save the changes, or even sooner. If I convert to jpeg I get colored boxes mostly on the right and tops of the images. Some of the photos I was able to save by cropping these boxes, but some are too tight and there is no way to crop around the box. CS4 won’t even recognize the files to open them. But I can see them perfect in the Camera Raw program. I tried converting to DNG, and that won’t work I get the decoding error. This is only my second time shooting in RAW because it gives me better control over the images---very frustrating as the program found all the jpegs too and they are still in perfect shape. Is there anything I can do to get the same images I see in the thumbnail on conversion to jpeg? I am guessing some pixels got lost somehow…. Any ideas? Anything? I am saving all I can by the crop method… but some of the best shots have the stupid box popping up in them.</p>
calibration/ gear question
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