dave_donaldson

<p>Yes, I own both cameras and use the same RRS L-plate on both of them.</p>

<p>I just upgraded the operating system on my main computer from Windows 7 to Windows 10. <br /><br />I did so because I had heard that if I did not upgrade, the following two things could happen:<br />1. In a few years (after Microsoft stops supporting Windows 7) I could get lots of viruses and malware.<br />2. As new (and updated) photography software comes out, it may not work on older versions of Windows (like Windows 7).<br /><br />So, with great apprehension, I backed up everything I could on my computer and uploaded Windows 10! It was a free upgrade.<br /><br />It took about 1 hour to download Windows 10. <br /><br />Once installed, it took me about another hour to fine-tune the settings and check everything out. When going through the setup screens, be sure to "uncheck" the "photos" box, otherwise your photos will open in the Windows Photo Viewer rather then PhotoShop or Lightroom.<br /><br />To my pleasant surprise, I found that my desktop looked just the same as it did before the upgrade. All of my programs and files were the same as they were before the upgrade. I did not loose a single software program or photo file during the transition. After the upgrade, I tested each of the below listed photo softwares that I had on my computer. Each one worked just fine in Windows 10, and all of the installed plug-ins and customized settings were just the same in Windows 10 as they were in Windows 7.<br /><br />Photo Shop CS2, Lightroom, Silky Pix, Portrait Pro, Photo Zoom, Painter, Paint Shop Pro, Photomatix, Zerene Stacker, PTGui, Picasa, Adobe Premiere, Nikon NX2, Helicon Filter, Photo Ninja, NIK, <a href="http://www.topazlabs.com/277.html" target="_blank">Topaz</a>, Oloneo Photo Engine, LightZone, Adobe Bridge, Digital Camera Utilities 5, Capture NX, <a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/Sigma-Zoom-Lenses-for-Pentax.html?src=al" target="_blank">Sigma</a> Photo Pro 6, Wacom Tablet <br /><br />After a few days of experience with Windows 10, here's a few of my observations:<br>

<br />1. You have 30 days from Windows 10 install to be able to roll back to Windows 7 at no expense. I'm liking Windows 10, and at this time believe that I'll probably keep it.<br>

<br />2. I love the "Groove Music" app. It comes with the install. Groove Music automatically pulled in all of my iTunes songs. It sounds many times better then listening to this same music on Windows 7 on the same speakers. In fact, it sounds like I bought expensive new speakers! Now I listen to my music while working on post on my photos - FUN. <br /><br />3. I have not had any freeze ups. However, this morning I went to wake up my computer from it's sleep, and the computer would not recognize my remote MicroSoft keyboard. I checked and it was not the batteries in the keyboard. I went ahead and installed another new keyboard (I always keep 3 new ones on hand) of the exact same model. To my surprise the brand new keyboard worked great and I was able to type in my password and it's been working great since. The keyboard that did not work was only about 1 month old. Glitch, maybe - hope it does not come back. If so, I have a "wired" type keyboard that I can always hook up.<br /><br />4. I initially had 2 printers that Windows 10 did not recognize. I was able to find a driver and upload it for my smaller desktop HP printer - now this printer works good. However, Epson does not have a driver for my large format printer for Windows 10! I called Epson. The customer service guy told me that Epson will not be developing/offering a Windows 10 driver for my 8-year old printer unless lots of folks call in and complain about it. So, those of you with an Epson Stylus Pro 7600, <strong>please call this number ( 562-276-1305 ) and tell Epson you want them to develop a driver for the Stylus Pro 7600 printer for Windows 10</strong>. Meanwhile, I'll be using an old laptop with Windows 7 to run my big printer - sure, it's a time wasting work-around, but better then trashing a perfectly good large format printer (or returning to Windows 7, as I expect the large format printer driver will probably be offered in 6 or 8 months).<br /><br /><br /><strong>If you've already upgraded, what's been your experience?</strong><br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>I have the XP1. Love the EVF. The only time I use the OVF is when I use my manual Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 lens (especially when shooting flying birds). I like to be able to see what's outside of the frame to anticipate the action. Also, EVF is a bit slow for fast action.</p>

<p>The big difference is the viewfinder. I have extensive experience with my X-Pro 1. I only shoot the EVF except for when the object is moving. The EVF takes a moment or two to lock in. It just does not work on anything that moves. But for still objects it's incredible.<br>

The only way you can focus on a moving object with the X-Pro 1 is to use the "real time" optical viewfinder. I use it's optical viewfinder when shooting flying birds and moving cars/trucks. It is absolutely impossible to shoot flying birds with a EVF.<br>

So, the X-E1 only has the EVF. Which is great as long as you are not shooting moving birds, cars, kids, sports, etc.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Bill said "Amazing that a firmware update can reduce "the shortest focusing distance without switching to macro mode."<br>

Bill, have you shot a Fuji X-Pro 1? Putting this camera in the "macro mode" only does one thing - limits the auto focusing's "throw" by allowing the lens to only focus over a very limited distance (say from 1 foot to 3 feet). I don't believe that the new software does anything to shorten the shortest focusing distance.</p>

<p>Shun, I would equate using EVF to using Live view "with a loupe". With the EVF your eye is <strong>right on top of the image</strong> and you see better because it is so close (provided your diopter adjustment is dead on). Whereas when using live view your eye is a foot or so from the screen (no glare or scratches to contend with on EVF, also no plastic protector to blur image). Also, my EVF always stays much cleaner than the viewing screen on the back of the digital camera.<br /> So, if using Live view "with a loupe" I'd say EVF and Live view are about equal. But when comparing live view (with no loupe) and a good EVF (with magnification), I still believe that EVF will probably produce, over time, slightly more accurate focus.</p>

<p>When using EVF, the EVF image is taking up just about everything your eye is seeing. However, looking at an LCD screen from a foot away, you are using only a small percentage of what your eye is seeing.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Rene said "Anyway, I know many people talk about getting a better bokeh on FX than DX. My primitive eyes can't see the difference."<br>

Rene, I found the same to be true. I am a longtime Nikon guy. Recently I switched to mirrorless (Fuji X Pro-1). One good thing about mirrorless is that you can use hundreds of legacy lenses with adapters (you of course can only use F mount lenses on Nikon cameras). <br>

If "<strong>better Bokeh</strong>" is your goal and you only have a Nikon body you're best option is probably the 58mm 1.2 Noct-Nikkor Noct for 3 thousand of dollars or more. However, if you go mirrorless, you can find much cheaper legacy lenses with exceptional bokeh (at least as good as the Noct - Nikkor) for much less money (e.g. Minolta MC 58mm f/1.2 for $600)!</p>

<p>Shun said "Live view should be the preferred way to focus on still subjects from a tripod such as macro, landscape, etc. It is a lot more precise than AF or focus from the traditional viewfinder."<br /> Shun, I've got 30 years of manual macro and landscape experience shooting Nikon & Canon systems. I now exclusively shoot the Fuji X-Pro 1. Once I got used to mirrorless with a high quality EVF (and 3X and 10X magnification options), I never wanted to go back to "live view" or optical viewfinders. When manual focusing, live view is NOT as accurate as EVF with 3X and 10X magnification. I have since sold all my mirrored cameras for this reason.<br /> As far as video goes, I have never used it except for holiday family videos made with my compact Canon camera.</p>

<p>I installed this new firmware yesterday. It was not that hard to do because Fuji provided very detailed instructions. One piece of advice, be sure that you install the new "camera" firmware BEFORE installing the new "lens" firmware. Also, be sure to write down the settings on your menu before the upgrade because the upgrade will wipe out your old settings.<br>

I've been testing the new firmware. The focusing speed and accuracy with my Fuji 35mm AF lens is much improved! I shoot alot of old manual lenses with adapters. With the old firmware, you only had a 10X magnification as a focusing aid. The new firmware added 3X magnification. I just love this addition, especially when using lenses 85mm and longer!<br>

Thanks Fuji, you just make a good camera even better!</p>

<p>Forgot to mention that with the legacy Nikkor and Minolta glass I use there is no autofocus.</p>

<p>David, I love using legacy glass with the adapter. My legacy glass is all manual focus. Using EVF focusing is great. First, I frame the photo, then I hit the 10X magnification button and fine tune the focusing at 10X, then I hit the 10X magnification button again and go back to regular scale and recomfirm the framing and then trip the shutter. While this all may seem slow and cumbersome, you get faster with practice, and it's worth the extra time because you will always nail the focus doing it this way. <br>

Your new X-E1 will have both 10X and 3X magnification. Also, starting today, us X-Pro 1 owners can download the new software from Fuji for our cameras and we will have 3X magnification too.<br>

As far as metering goes, I set the shutter dial on the red "A", manually set the aperture on the lens, and the camera automatically selects the proper shutter speed. Works good for me.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>I have had my X-Pro 1 for a couple of months now. The only Fuji lens I have is the 35mm f/1.4. I use it primarily for action/moving subjects where it's auto-focus is needed.<br>

One of the things I like about this mirrorless sytem is the fact that you can use lots of older, legendary, manual focus lenses with it by using adapters. <br>

I put a dedicated adapter on each of my legacy lenses. That way it holds down the dust, and I feel that over time, if it were regularly removed the adapters, the joint would get gradually get looser. Also I have found that the cheaper adapters work just as well as the expensive ones.<br>

Here's a list of the manual legacy lenses that I have found work great on my X-Pro 1: Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AIS; Nikkor 200mm f/4.0 AIS; Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 AIS; Minolta MD 24mm f/2.8; and Minolta MC 58mm f/1.2. Also, I exclusively use the EVF with these legacy lenses.<br>

What legendary legacy lenses have you found a good match for the X-Pro 1?</p>