prabhu_v

No I don't think so. I searched for "Ricoh Shutter" and nothing relevant comes up.

The shutter button on my Ricoh GR II doesn't complete the press sometimes, especially if pressed around the sides rather than at the center. I half-press, lock focus, and then full press...I do get the tactile feedback from the full press, but the shot is not taken. When I press it just a little more, or move my finger towards the center of the button and try again, it works.

 

Is this functioning as designed, or is this a defect? Wondering if I should return it.

 

It seems to me like a design flaw because the button is a long one (rectangular rounded), and pressing on the edges means that the button has to travel more to complete the press. The problem is that the tactile feedback is received just a little bit before it is pressed down completely. It's almost like it requires three press-downs to take the shot. First is the half press to focus. Then the full press, which doesn't yet take the shot. And then a harder press to complete it.

 

If you have a GR II, do you observe the same behavior?

 

Thanks!

<p>Great learning content here, thanks for the advice, all of you!</p>

<p>Thanks for your thoughts. Looking forward to hearing from Jeff.</p>

<p>Just a little background: I started shooting concerts recently and currently use the Nikon D600 with a Nikkor 70-200 V1 lens. I'm struggling to get sharp pictures. I've tried out a lot of things, and sometimes I get lucky, but my keeper ratio is pretty bad. In general, I start out in manual mode with ISO 5000, shutter speed 1/500 and aperture 4.5, I find that this gives me pretty decent results, but I sometimes have to lower the ISO to about 2000 because there is usually light shining on the artist's face and the picture gets whitewashed at 5000. Anyway, ultimately, I find that I have to press the auto-focus button multiple times to get the focus right. I thought it could be the capabilities of the 600 camera, so I tried out the D810 and I had similar problems. The D810 has a lot of pixels, and some photographers told me it wasn't the best choice for concerts, and after testing it out, I sort of agree. There are two things I'm considering now. Change to a Canon 5d Mark 3 (as it seems to be the 810 equivalent (sort of, at least) but with less pixels, a good combination for concerts), or try out the V2 version of the 70-200 lens, which I hear has better auto-focus. I could end up spending a lot of money renting out these things, so I thought I'd check here before I start trying out things.<br>

Now, another photographer told me that the 5D (and canon cameras in general) give better colors, but less shaprness than their Nikon counterparts. In his example, he said that with the Nikon cameras, you can spot even the wrinkles of people's faces, but with Canon, the colors are bettter and the sharpness not up to par. So, Nikon is good for landscapes wheraas Canon is good for weddings, according to him. Is this somewhat true? I definitely don't want to compromise on sharpness for my concert photorgaphy.<br>

So, any advice on both my questions (if my move from the Nikon D600 to Canon 5d Mark 3 would help with my sharpness and auto-focus, and if Canon cameras are less sharp than Nikon) would be very much appreciated!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you all for sharing your thoughts. I'm now leaning towards keeping my Nikon system, and perhaps getting a second camera for travel purposes. So let me ask, which one would be a good travel camera to get? It would obviously be nice to have a full-frame (Sony A7?) because it's when traveling that I get to shoot some of my landscapes. However, it's also nice to have good range when traveling without having to change lenses much, so a super zoom would be really handy. And also, I like to shoot video during my trips, and currently I have to lug around my dslr as well as my camcorder. So, in summary, this is what I'm looking for:<br>

- Full frame would be nice (after having the Nikon d600, it's tough going back to a smaller sensor).<br>

- Super zoom would be nice (up to 200mm at least).<br>

- Video capability that could potentially replace my camcorder.<br>

The cameras I have in mind are:<br>

- Sony A7 (yes full frame, but no super zoom)<br>

- Sony A6000 (yes superzoom, but no full frame)<br>

- Sony RX 10 (yes super zoom and I hear it's got good video, but no full frame).<br>

May be I'm missing something. Would love to hear some good ideas for a great second camera for travel. Oh, and it doesn't have to be Sony.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a Nikon D600, Nikkor 16-35 f/4 lens and a 50mm 1.8 lens, and an SB 700 flash. I mostly shoot landscapes (with the 16-35) and portraits (fashion/couples/family). For the portraits I usually rent out the 85mm f/1.4 which I really love. Occasionally, I also shoot at events for which I rent out the 70-200 f/2.8, and tennis (for which I rent out the 300 mm f/2.8).<br /> I've been thinking about moving to a Sony system primarily for lower size/weight when traveling, but I'm apprehensive about leaving behind my Nikon experience. Not so concerned with the cost of moving as I don't own too many lenses and I could just sell what I have.<br /> Wondering what thoughts others have about this move. I'm mostly wondering about lens options (for example will the 16-35 f/4 that Sony just released compare well to the Nikon's 16-35), and is there an amazing portrait lens for Sony like the 85 f/1.4 for the Nikon? How about Flash? Does the flash power compare to Nikon's speed lights? <br /> The other thing I was considering was to keep my Nikon, and get a Sony A6000 or RX 10 just for travel purposes. Any thoughts/comments on this? I sort of want to just have one system, but as a photographer, I don't want to compromise on tools if that means compromised image quality.<br>

Oh, and I also use the back button to focus, on my Nikon, so I can control the exposure lock and focus lock independently. Would this be a problem if I moved to Sony? <br>

Thank you!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Every time I go on a trip I have to take both my camcorder and my DSLR (Nikon D600). That's because I like to shoot pictures while on a trip, but I also like to shoot video to document my trip for memories. However, not only is it bothersome to travel with all this equipment, but also while sightseeing, I sometimes have to wear both my dslr and my camcorder around my neck. While the DSLR can shoot video, it's not easy to zoom and focus as it is on a camcorder, so I can't rely on my D600 for the videos. <br>

I'm trying to see if I can somehow find a camera that I can use for both still pictures and video. I was considering the Sony A7 which seems to be a feasible replacement for the D600, but I am not sure if it can replace my camcorder. When it comes to zooming in and out, and maintain focus when panning left and right, the camcorder is so much easier to deal with, but I'm wondering if there may be something out there that I could consider.<br>

Wondering how others are dealing with this. I'm sure many of you are also on the same boat, so please share your thoughts. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you all for your responses and ideas. Yesterday was the first event and it was indoors at a house, and I used many of the tips given by all of you. Since it was in a house, I used only the 24-70 and the 85mm (I used the 50mm for a bit). I had the flash on the 24-70, and I had the 85mm wide open. I also happened to watch this video before I went to the event which is absolutely one of the best talks I have watched on photography: <a href=" /> - A few things from my yesterday's experience: lighting was a little boring with the flash on the 24-70. I feel like I could have arranged for an off-camera flash. Is it easy to set that up if I have an assistant?<br /> - I had to keep a balance between taking artistic shots and capturing moments. The video that I watched (link above) made me pay more attention to capturing the moments vs focusing on the artistic look.<br /> - The 85mm without the flash was my favorite. I absolutely love the shots that I took with this. Though I'd like to keep things simple as noted by many of you and just have the 24-70 and 70-200, I feel like a third camera with the 85mm on it would be very useful for the main event. <br /> Some questions:<br /> 1. Is it easy to set up a remote flash and have my assistant just hold it? Would you recommend it?<br /> 2. Joe Buissink in the above video suggests being on P mode for weddings. However, I am not sure why you wouldn't want to be on A mode instead. I would like to learn more about the P mode and why it is easier to use than the A (or S) mode. Could someone share their thoughts on the P mode and how to use it effectively?<br /> Thanks again for all your help!</p>

<p>I'm shooting my first wedding and it's an Indian wedding & reception. I mostly shoot landscapes, but I'm doing this for a friend and want to make sure I do the best for his big day.<br>

I have a Nikon D600, 16-35 f/4 lens, and a 50mm lens. In addition I am renting:<br>

70-200 f/2.8<br>

24-70 f/2.8<br>

80 f/1.4<br>

105 f/2.8 macro<br>

sb 910 flash<br>

a second body Nikon d600<br>

a battery grip<br>

a double strap</p>

<p>What I wanted to know was--am I renting the correct gear? Am I missing something? I'll have a non-photographer friend assisting me, but I'm not sure exactly how best she can assist. Any suggestions?<br>

Do I need to get a bag to store all the stuff? Or do I just place them on the table where I'll be seated?</p>

<p>Also, for flash is it best to keep the flash on the camera or should I have my friend hold the flash remotely?<br>

Any other advice for a first timer?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>For an event last week, i was shooting with a Nikon D600 and a Speedlight SB 700. For several of the shots, the flash waits for about 2-3 seconds after I hit the shutter and then fires. For some shots, the flash does not fire at all. Is it something wrong with my flash or is it the way I'm using it? I'm shooting a wedding this weekend and wanted to get the flash sorted out.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I conducted a photography workshop for beginners last week. It's a 4 week (once a week) workshop where I'm covering the basics of photography (exposure, composition, lighting, sharpness, etc). Last week I gave them an overview and covered some very basic composition stuff (like not cutting people's limbs off, rule of thirds, giving space, keeping it simple, etc). I noticed that some of the younger students (teenagers) started to get bored a little and wanted to do some activity. So I made them take a few pictures around the venue for 15 mins, and we did a critique session after.<br>

Next week, I plan to cover the basics of exposure (exposure triangle, depth of field, aperture/shutter etc), and since this session can get a little on the theory side, I'm afraid that the younger ones might lose concentration soon. So, I'm wondering what activity (that will help them understand exposure better) I could have them do to keep them engaged and interested?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you for all the valuable advice so far! So, do you recommend no flash at all or some flash? How about if if used flash effectively (reduce intensity, reduce shutter speed to balance ambient light, rear-sync, etc), would that make a difference? <br>

Also in terms of lenses, I was hoping to get some background blur which is why I thought of getting the 70-200. With the 50mm (I'm on a full frame), I might be able to get background blur with one person, but with a group of 3, it may be a challenge right? <br>

How about the 85mm or 105mm? Would you recommend either of those lens options?<br>

With an 85mm on a cropped sensor, in the past I've had trouble with sharpness because the 85mm doesn't have VR. So, I was wondering if I used the 85mm (now on the full frame) and a little bit of flash, if I could get good results.<br>

Also, some of you mentioned fill-flash. How do you do that outdoors? Indoors, you'd just point it to the roof, so wondering how you'd do it outdoors. <br>

Thanks again for all your valuable advice!</p>

 

<p>Next weekend, I'm going to be taking some family pictures of a friend, his wife and their 6 month old baby. Never done anything like it before (I'm more of a landscape photographer), so I wanted some advice, tips, and any suggestions so I can be well prepared. <br /> We are planning to do this a few hours before sunset outdoors. I'm planning to take my Nikon D600 along with a 70-200 F/4, and am also planning to get an SB-700 flash. I find flash photography challenging, especially due to the shutter sync limitation.<br /> <br /> I find this person's pictures particularly inspiring--the de-saturated colors, the brownish b&w pictures, and the use of soft colors (soft green notably).<br /><br /><a href="http://lulliloophotography.com/blog/">http://lulliloophotography.com/blog/</a></p>

<p><br /> I would appreciate very much any tips on how I could achieve similar results.<br /> I'd like to know things like: <br />-best time of day for portraits, <br />-which direction to face, <br />-if I should use any filters, <br />-what color clothing they should ideally wear<br />-if I should use a softbox<br />-lens recommendations<br />etc<br /> and anything else, as I'm pretty sure I'm not even asking the right questions.<br /> Thanks a lot!</p>

<p>Thank you all for the suggestions, very much appreciate it. I ended up renting the 70-200. Renting the 24-70 also would be out of my budget at this time, however, I do have a 16-35 f/4 and a 50 mm 1.8. I think I can take a few wide shots with these.<br /> I'm just curious, do you guys carry the whole bag of lenses with you all the time so you can swap the lenses at any time, or do you keep down your bag somewhere, and just strap the camera and the current lens, and then go to your bag when needed? I only have one camera body.<br /> Also, some of you suggested a monopod. Do you think that this is really needed give that there is VR and ISO? I use a monopod for sports but wondering if I really need for this.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've been asked to shoot an indoor event where there will be stage performances, speeches, and then of course an audience. <br>

Which lens would be appropriate for this? I was wondering between a 70-200 and the 24-70. I have a Nikon D600. This is the hall: <a href="http://www.larpd.dst.ca.us/rentals/documents/RLCCCrestaBlanca_FP.pdf">http://www.larpd.dst.ca.us/rentals/documents/RLCCCrestaBlanca_FP.pdf</a><br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Kerry did finally reply to my message over 3 weeks ago, and said that I could return the tripod for a refund. Very much appreciated it and sent in the tripod over two weeks ago, but haven't yet received the refund nor have I heard back. I wanted to appreciate his business, but there is room for improvement in the way business is done.</p>

<p>Thanks! One more question regarding space. I'm have to record two 3 hour sessions. Any suggestions on how I should prepare for storage, and if I should do a continuous recording or if I should split up?</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your input.<br>

@Richard Simmons, sounds like your method may be easiest for me...I have a couple questions:<br>

1. Have you ever had issues with audio & video being out of sync? Or is usually pretty good?<br>

2. How can I set up for multi-track audio? There will likely be about 5 to 6 mics going into the mixer. How can I get all the tracks separately into my DAW?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I need to record video at a music event, where there will be a bunch of mics going into a mixer. Both my DSLR and my camcorder only have a mic input. What equipment cables would I need to ensure reasonably good audio quality? I need the sound out of the mixer into the camera.<br>

In my research I came across products from JuicedLink and Beachtek, a simple XLR to 1/8 inch cables, and even wireless transmitter/receiver where the transmitter would be plugged into the mixer and the receiver into the camera (somebody told me that a wireless system would keep the noise down). But it's beginning to get pretty overwhelming with all these options, so any guidance is appreciated!<br>

Thanks...</p>

<p>Just wanted to find out if any of you here who have dealt with Kerry at Really Big Cameras could let me know the best way to reach him. <br>

I bought a traveler tripod from him about a month ago and wanted to return it as I found it a little small for me. He was great at responding to my emails before I bought the tripod, but he hasn't responded to any of my emails since the purchase, and I am now past the 2 week return period. I have a brand new Feisol Traveler tripod that is stuck at home.<br>

Any advice is appreciated!<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses. I'm still a little unclear on how to effectively extend the legs so that they are all extended to the same height (when I'm not extending fully). So, let's say I extend the bottom two sections out fully. How do I then extend the top section partially so that the top section on all the three legs are at the same level? Do you mark your tripod so that you can do this quickly each time? I'm wondering if it makes sense to get a shorter tripod so I can extend all the legs out fully...</p>

<p>I just got a Fesiol tournament tripod (3442). It's slightly taller than my eye level, so I may need to lower it just a little. <br>

What method do you use to lower the tripod? I have a four section tripod, so which section would you lower/not extend fully? Do you start by extending all the legs out first and then adjust one of them? Is it a good idea to mark your tripod, so you know exactly to what height the leg needs to be pulled out to?<br>

Also, how spread out to the legs need to be? If I spread it out wide enough, then the tripod will be at the correct height for me.<br>

These are probably silly questions, but it would be helpful to know some best practices as to how to set up a tripod efficiently. <br>

Also, do you normally keep the ballhead attached to the tripod always? And when moving from one place to another, do you walk with the tripod attached to the camera, or do you detach the camera first?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks! I ended up getting the thin B+W one you linked...</p>

<p>Thanks @Jose, which filter would you recommend, assuming I want a filter?</p>