xenophon_costeas

<p>Ah, sharpness! We can never have enough!</p>

<p>Seriously, though. Before you blame eyesight trouble or the Sekor, I believe you shound run tests with mirror lockup and/or a cable release [at 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500 shutter speeds]. </p>

<p>Mirror and camera shake are, to my mind, the most likely culprits when it comes to that (slight, but depressing) sense of softness.</p>

<p>If you want, check out my sharpness troubles at:</p>

<p>https://lycabettus.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/shooting-the-mamiya-rz67-handheld-how-much-sharpness-one-sacrifices-over-a-tripod-and-mirror-lock-up/<br>

<br>

With greetings from Athens,<br>

<br>

Xen</p>

<p>Regarding the RZ67 vs Bronica GS-1 weight comparison:<br>

While both are, spec-wise, nearly identical (6x7 SLRs), their handling is dramatically different. The Bronica feels so much lighter and is a joy to carry around. Not so with the RZ, but not because of the larger size and weight: it may sound silly, but I think the strap lugs are responsible for the RZ's worse posture while walking around.<br>

Tomorrow, I'll post some pictures to illustrate that.<br>

Don't get me wrong, though. I like them both very much, it's just that the GS-1 is remarkably more compact in actual use.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Xen</p>

<p>Similar predicament here: started with an RZ in 2010, was envious of a Hasselblad's form factor and got a Bronica GS-1 in 2012, then became enamored with TLRs and recently got a 2.8C for my daughter.<br /> I, too, have adopted the WLF approach as the least threatening, but admit that I'm always glued to the magnification loupe. Still, it's a very non-intimidating posture and I am now a WLF evangelist.<br /> Hassie, Rollei, Bronica and the RZ - the experience is totally different with each, although this is not news to anyone in this thread.<br /> A 3.8F is a classic, as is the RZ. Can't say the same for the Bronica GS-1, but it's my favorite (a Jap Hassie, to my mind).<br>

<br /> Bottom line - a clean Rolleiflex 3.5F is probably the most solid purchase (the top of the line in the used market), whereas a Hasselblad 500 is not: its shutter is significantly harsher than all the other candidates, and it's (to my mind) the least refined system handling-wise. The Zeiss lenses, obviously, are stellar, as I understand.<br /> <br />Hope this rant helps.<br>

<br />With greetings from Athens,<br />Xen</p>

<p>I hike all over Greece quite a lot, and own both the RZ67 (my first love) and a Bronica GS-1. It is VERY awkward to walk in the mountains (or anywhere, for that matter) with the Mamiya --- it's not just the weight, it's all sorts of little details, e.g. the way a camera strap attaches to the body.<br>

On the other hand, the Bronica is a joy. To me (I'm a big guy) it has the perfect balance of size/weight/subjective feel.<br>

If you really must have a reflex 6x7, and haven't invested yet, maybe you should give the Bronica a look.<br>

HTH<br>

Xen</p>

<p>The "T-N" mini-switch (on the left side of the lens, just behind the aperture dial) - has it been dislodged, maybe?<br>

This can cause trouble with the mirror locking up and the advance lever getting stuck (it also floods the film chamber with light!)<br>

Xen</p>

<p>As far as size/weight/comfort is concerned, my experience with 6x7 cameras is as follows:<br>

- the GS-1 is significantly more compact than the Mamiya RZ67; on trips (even short ones), I carry the Bronica with WLF almost all the time<br>

- the RZ67 feels subjectively twice the size/weight of the Bronica; walking around town, you look like you mean business! (personally, I don't like that)<br>

Both are great cameras, and the GS-1 is a joy to use. The handgrip/pentaprism makes it feel almost like a bloated SLR, but with the WLF is my japanese Hassie!</p>

 

<p>Not a scientific test:<br>

<a href="http://lycabettus.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/shooting-the-mamiya-rz67-handheld-how-much-sharpness-one-sacrifices-over-a-tripod-and-mirror-lock-up/">http://lycabettus.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/shooting-the-mamiya-rz67-handheld-how-much-sharpness-one-sacrifices-over-a-tripod-and-mirror-lock-up/</a><br>

If one takes into account all contributing factors (i.e.: camera motion / mirror slap / shallow depth of field / high resolution of the MF negative), it is indeed a pleasant surprise to find an acutely sharp picture now and then!<br>

I guess that with meticulous technique, one can manage to obtain technically sharp results about 70% of the time.</p>

<p>Allow me to second the 400 ISO comment. My experience in Greece (with significantly more sunlight than Switzerland) is similar --- I've used a Mamiya RZ67 and a Bronica GS-1 for outdoor portraits of my family, and Portra 160 just doesn't make it, even with the "normal" 100-110mm lens.<br /> Handheld exposures even at below 1/250 are obviously <a href="http://wp.me/pmbK0-1Y">unsharp</a>, and depth-of-field a major issue with apertures > f/8. Only the nose is in-focus in some photos!.<br /> A monopod or a tripod is also mandatory.</p>

<p>I too am having trouble with handheld shooting an RZ67 (see http://lycabettus.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/shooting-the-mamiya-rz67-handheld-how-much-sharpness-one-sacrifices-over-a-tripod-and-mirror-lock-up/).<br>

In your case, however, things are an order of magnitude worse. The most logical explanation appears to be that your shutter speeds are off the mark.<br>

Shooting a slide film is the only way I can think of in order to check exposure accuracy.</p>

<p>My success with handheld shooting is also poor, although some pictures do come out tack sharp! I've tested my setup and the results are at:<br>

http://lycabettus.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/shooting-the-mamiya-rz67-handheld-how-much-sharpness-one-sacrifices-over-a-tripod-and-mirror-lock-up/<br>

With greetings from Athens,<br>

Xen</p>