johnny_hfour

Yes, I guess that made sense at the time when the cameras were the mainstream tool for photography. (Whereas now, for my 'hobby' photography, I value technical simplicity as there is less to go wrong.)

Classic American beauties - Kodak Medalist and Signet35 by John Hancock, on Flickr

F=64mm on 6x9, scaled down from 2982px x 2048px, Portra400

My Signet 35 shutter speeds were :- [] 1/34 at '1/25' [] Accurate at 1/50 and 1/100 [] 1/200 at '1/300' - actually a nice progression 1/200 is fast enough for me ;) Armed Forces Day, Thornbury, 30 June 2018 by John Hancock, on Flickr

Earlier this year I got a Signet 35 (the model as reviewed in the link given above - thanks for that). I've shot a couple of rolls with it, I quite like it. It has a neat form factor and the controls fall nicely under the fingers for me.

Additional - just seen an email from Fred G explaining that this is a generic specification of w/nw threads. Fair enough.

I BEG your pardon - but where did it specify so? Maybe I missed seeing it amongst the 'no birds' bird pictures ;-)

Kodak Signet 35 test shot by John Hancock, on Flickr

Bristol,Harbourside cranes by John Hancock, on Flickr

Kodak Signet 35

Envoy Wide Angle 64mm on 6x9 Black Jack Street, Cirencester - 1 by John Hancock, on Flickr

Black Jack Street, Cirencester - 1 by John Hancock, on Flickr. Envoy Wide Angle camera F=64mm on 6x9, Portra 400

I think of 6x9 as a convenient, conventional, description, for the reasons that you give i.e. film gate sizes can vary by a few mm. Granted that the metric system can be more convenient for scientific and engineering use, but the "Imperial" system, with variants actually in widespread use in many countries before the French Revolution, can be used to be just as 'accurate'. And it evolved for ease of human perception - think ... Inch -Thumb -Daumen - Pouce ... ;)

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<p>I have had both the Karat 36 and the Karat IV. I was perfectly happy with the split rangefinder of the 36, in fact, if anything, I preferred it. That's just me :-) . Like others, I found the Solinar, Solagon, (and Xenon) lenses all excellent.</p>

<p>I would remove the lens front cell assembly and the shutter faceplate to see what's (not) going on.<br /><br />The precise details of how to do that would depend on which lens and shutter types are fitted- according to Camera-wiki <a href="http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Baby_Ikonta">The Zeiss Ikon Ikonta 520/18 ... came equipped with a variety of lenses and shutters ...</a><br /><br />The general principle would be to remove the focus ring (often retained by grub screws needing precision/jeweller's screwdrivers) after carefully noting the orientation of the lens front cell in the Infinity position for reassembly, as the front cell(s) would have to be unscrewed.<br />There is likely to be more variety in the types of shutter fastenings; the Derval shown in the Camera-wiki page appears to have a pair of straightforward front mounted screws, but for more complex ones you might need to 'google' around for hints.<br> I hope that helps.</p>

<p>Congratulations on a nice 'special boutique' find. Three decades ago, my late Mum had the nous to buy a Vito B for 50 pence, at a rummage sale, for me, having been told it wasn't working. As is usually the case, it was only the need for a film to be installed for the shutter and wind-on to work. As said above, it was a great little camera, I only sold it when I got more into MF.<br> Oh, and it was in Leicester :-)</p>

<p>In the absence of the proper Kodak Tool 5-1-A, this may help.<br> Medalist (I) Shutter removal - 4 by johnnyh4, on Flickr<br> "the camera is completely broken, betony repair."<br> I'm sure the remnants would be of use to somebody if you wanted put them up for sale ;-) .</p><div></div>