robert_petersen1

<p>Those are the days we dream of , glad they still exist !! congratulations , now go out there and shoot it !</p>

<p>Good old Lighter Fluid works good with out ruining a camera.</p>

<p>Whew lots of verdicts here , lots of experience and lots of comparisons , i too have been shooting film as of lately and own several cameras to shoot and have comparisons but i don't do this , shoot to compare ,i own the m3 and the m6 the f6 and the f2s the f1 and the a-1 the little penn ft and the rolle twin 2.8 the maymia 7, the 4x5 and 8x10 as well as the digital the 800 the 610 and the 7d and mk3 and a a7r Sony along with lens that have adapters for the sony and cannons , the point is i am not comparing them to each other ,i am learning what they do and how well they work and capture images, this includes there lens and the results ...so no fair on a verdict of which rf you feel is best, with out a added question of "best for what " Is the 8x10 deardorf better than the m6??? for what ?But to let any one get a good idea of the contax camera g1 and g2 ,i want to add the best i found a g1 for is using the 28mm on it ..there done, you will not find any problems with focus,28s have a good depth of field, the camera view finder will adjust to this perspective for you ,try that on the m6 , the 35 45 and especially the 90 will NOT focus as fast but what the g1 and 28 give you is a fast street shooter and if you want a sharp landscape, stop it down and you will be happy with 100 percent sharp images , the g2 is far better with the 90mm , your portraits and work in a ilford film, B&W will be as good as the m6 , the 35 mm lens is best left on the m6 were that lens and camera just shine as well as the 50 summicron, the 45mm works so well on a sony a7 , hard to believe some one tossed their g in the trash can awww not often do you hear that about the m3 or m6 , " i got a g2 and tossed the Ms in the trash, whats this car comparison? electric tooth brush vs the old handjobber , or... a sx70 vs a 100 land-camera non sense the g2 is a capable camera...just like all the others i mentioned .</p>

<p>With the exception that you can "feel" it , i am prone to say <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=141496">Roland Vink</a> is correct ,from my experiece working on lenes ,it appears to be oil on the inner side or the rear element , and a considerable easy fix , but not for the price you paid would i suggest cleaning it yourself .</p>

<p>Unfortunately everyone here is right ,if this was not disclosed you must return it, unless you and the buyer can agree to a mutual price , the problem is you need to consider a re-sale in the future and as every one will agree a scratch on your rear element will not effect the images as much as you think, but do test it on a digital camera shoot a white wall and blow up the image 200 % or more and you will be hard to see the effect , i have seen rear element chips and scratches from your image it is so hard to tell ,but you said you needed a flash light to see it so it may not be all that bad , test it be happy with the results and then ask for the discount or return it and find yourself much happier with perfections at a reasonable price</p>

<p>Yes , prices differ from time to time but the 28mm 2.8 has a solid reputation for Nikon ,unfortunately the 35mm does not ,if you have then time google 35mm lens comparisons and notice how the 35mm Zeiss lens compares to the Nikon ,it is one of the only lens made by NIKON other manufacturers out preform Nikon , the 28mm on the other hand may outperform even the Zeiss .</p>

<p>Also there is the same lens with 3.5<br>

<strong>Nikon 55mm f/3.5 AI </strong><br>

<strong>it is not as sharp in the corners but "cheaper" in cost but not in built.<br /></strong></p>

<p>The <strong>Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 55mm f/2.8 AI-s</strong> it is so sharp with ZERO visible distortion at any distance .. distortion at 3 meters (10 feet) is under ± 0.1 <br>

The lens you rented is a very good lens but this is better and what you need for your distance consideration ,take time tripod ,shoot in manual ,check your images on the computer of your tests then proceed .</p>

<p>Your on the right track ,the qualification is if you want to do this and have the time then proceed ,do bring with you a relative wide lens 24mm min for any indoor work , a good flash just in case for fill and don't forget to let them know you can shoot in HDR for that price if your camera allows it</p>

<p>The one reason to consider this (which is a better built quality ) is physical abuse,built better ,no there is no graph of reference to determine a winner ,be it body or lens , not like if we introduced a plastic camera were the plastic would be a disadvantage, or if it was hand built ,or if both were factory fresh ,or used for a long time , you will see many more Leica's prized and on the self and kept for a investment or a collectors advantage ,while you will see many more Nikon's out in the dirt ,the storms ,the wars , the shooters hand ,being used and in time worn out from the 40 ,50 , 100, years being used, a f may not reach the built of a Leica m3s quality but most certainly a f2 , We will wait the day you own both of these cameras and you too like all of us will still be puzzled which is better and why and with your query you will take it upon you to determine the results with experience and let us know !</p>

<p>Both those prices are excellent for both those cameras , i believe from my experiences the best lens on a Yashica was on a Yashica 12 , and found the Mat not as contrasty but both these lens are great for black and white , i feel the Tessar has some thing special to it a signature look , were the Xenar even thou a Tessar design will preform more detail in the shadows but i fond this to be the difference between both camera held side by side , The Yashica has a 80 mm lens were as the Rolliflex is 75mm , now if you dint have them side by side you may not notice the difference but 5mm more is obvious on the screens next to each other , if you want a little more wide angel the Rolleiflex would be the choice , The Yashica has a better screen , and most noticeable in the using it in the night or darker environments , the screen will then let you see it is almost twice as bright and you can compose a image better n the dark , also the magnifying glass is different , i need reading glasses some times to focus and i can almost not need them with the Yashica were as the Rolliflex it is a must .</p><div></div>

<p>no it is all there , the film holder the ground glass and the L shape arm with the adjustments and gear , all that is need to make a linof 4x5 to 8x10 is mount this arm on to the rail , i have the bellows also </p><div></div>

<p>i have a extra karden-master tl 8x10 back ( meaning film holder and ground glass ) only i am not sure what other cameras this could fit in the linof line , but i would like to offer this to some one in the classifieds but not sure any one would want it or even its value any body have a suggestion?? , i sold the camera as a 4x5 unit and just found this after 7 months but need to pass it on , as you know i tried looking every were for info including the linof site hummmm any help thanks guys and i do hope your enjoying the summer light as much as i am </p>

<p>yep , there is no way , i really felt while trying to find info on the lens i came across some one suggesting this lens for the rb67 but i guess not , i have found adapters for a eos system but not being a full frame it would be like a 200mm or more so i think ill sell it , just stay happy with 190 mm on the maymia and the lens on the linoff ,ok off it goes to ebay , awww , any one need a a sonnar 180 ziess jena ddr mc cheap let me know thanks such a nice lens got me excited</p>

<p>working the aperture by hand is a given on the rb67 , so the lens seems suited to use on this format , but were are those adapters hiding ? id love to get one and a,b this lens with the 190 mamiya for you all asap , i believe the 190mm on the mamyia is a tessar design , so should prove to be interesting , from a boken point of view to a f8 or above sharpness interest , who can guide me on the internet to solve this quest?</p>

<p>ok folks can you help me here lol?<br>

i have found a sonnar 180 ziess jena ddr mc at the goodwill , seems to be in very nice condition for 76.00 , i was at first thinking i would love to use it on a a cannon eos system but first my cannon is not full frame , and honestly i am not found of telephoto lens more like wides for for me on 35mm cameras but it dawned on me that it is possible to use this on my rb67 , is it ? they say you can use a adapter but lord it has been a hour of searching even on ebay with no luck , is this true , and if so can any one point me in the right direction. were can i search for this odd ball ?<br>

second what am i bargaining for i am simply in love with the 190 older non c lens for this camera , so is this adapter going to cost me hundreds more but show no better results ? is the 180 ziess lens different , better sharper etc than the one i have ?<br>

it is a heavy lens but so are many rb67 lens and i use the tripod in a studio with this camera so nope i am not going to go out and find a adapter for the cannon , i am still in the process of trying to find one for a super takumar 55 for that camera <br>

whats your thoughts is it a good lens ? , i believe it is a pentagon lens mount but not sure , for i know it is not a pentax screw mount .<br>

ok ,it doesn't have shutter in it so i don't want to go out and find a way to use it on the 4x5 linhoff master L<br>

what should i do with it if it doesn't fit or adapt to a rb67 , is there a body it does fit ??</p>

<p>oh yes by the way yes it is a cannon with cannon balls that i put the lens on , may explain why the lens has not been found recently, it went off in the air somewhere , i think towards the chair which also doesn't exist any more , it blew up in the process , </p>

<p>I am from Brazil so my english is a little off , thanks , some times i use goole translation and it comes out in jibbrish , lol </p>

i don't know if any of you have this option , but i never send the b&w in but i do the color it takes a two days

for them to scan my images from the negative and develop the film , i can pick my resolution and wala , what

beautiful results , it is like there is atmosphere in between my image and senor on a d5 and nothing but pure

clean light in between my subject and film with a rb67 not even the best of my 35 mm cameras comes close once

scanned , and you can get them scanned less than prints and inter the images into the digital world with ease , a

starting point to see what is on the neg.s from here print all you want or pick the ones you want scanned yourself<div></div>

<p>trying to capture screws on the chiar for a test of this lens </p><div></div>

<p>4.</p><div></div>

<p>3.</p><div></div>

<p>one more </p><div></div>

<p>maybe i can load a image </p><div></div>

<p>i have to older cannon d10 , i use..some times lol but recently i just want to be rid of the kit lens that came with it , it being not that great of a lens , so i tried to sell it , nobody wanted it so i torn it apart with the hopes of a retro i had also had this Schneider 135 xenar lens laying about , a tessar design as you all know so yep i removed the glass from the cannon zoom kept the focusing elements and cut a lens board , we all know i am only using the center part of the lens and it now a bit of a tele photo , but wow ... i don't know how to post a image on here but have a look in my folders , uncroped unsharpened tests results </p>