jmlphotography

This lens looks brand new. I bought it for my Wista 4x5 not realizing that my bellows does not extend far enough to do close ups. I've mounted it but never used it. Please see the attached image.

 

$500 plus PayPal fee (PP Gift OK).

 

Please PM me if interested.

 

Hi Ed,

 

Thank you! I tried that but it still refuses to wind on. I will send it in for service.

 

Sorry to see this so late.

 

This happens occasionally with my 203. If you flip up the hand crank and press the button (you can't tell it's a button, but it's there), that seems to fix it. I would appreciate it if you would report back with whatever resolution you came to regarding this.

A metal camera like the Wista SP might be more durable though heavier than a wooden version.

<p>I've used the NJ Hasselblad HQ because I was in the area for a couple of weeks. It was nice to be able to talk with the repairman, drop it off and then review what was done with the repairman when I picked it up. If you are located there it might make sense to use them. If you have to mail it off anyway, I'm sure Odess is a great choice. <br>

Regardless, please let us know what you decide and how satisfied you were with the price, service, and results.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for the great advice. I will definitely need to buy used. I'll keep my eye out for something in the $10 range with plastic tabs, possibly in a lot of 4 or 5.</p>

<p>I've just acquired a Vista SP. It has everything except film holders. Checking EBay I'm seeing prices from $6 to $90. Can someone give me some advice on what to buy, what to avoid or any other tips.</p>

<p>Re release cable problems: This may not be relevant but I had my 203FE serviced by Hasselblad USA and the technician made a point of the fact that cable releases must be put in a certain way, but not screwed in, or words to that effect. Unfortunately I can't remember exactly what he said. Perhaps someone can enlighten me. Otherwise, I'll give him a call or stop by next time I'm NJ.</p>

<p>I have a chimney finder, prism and a power winder. They're nice but add weight and bulk. I don't use the winder at all. I'll sometimes use the prism on a tripod. I really prefer the WLF and manual crank for walking around. I don't think the prism adds focusing accuracy, but it might make focusing easier for you. However, I'd practice a little with the WLF to see if that helps before investing in a prism or HM2.<br>

Good luck!</p>

<p>Following this discussion is like watching open heart surgery. I'm feeling faint.</p>

<p>I'm surprised no one who actually uses a Hasselblad has replied. You might want to try the Hasselblad group on Flickr. I had a similar problem but it was caused by the film magazine. In other words, with the mag off, the shutter worked fine. Using a change bag, I took the film out and put it back in. Worked OK after that. </p>

<p>Here is an excellent discussion of the technical issues involved. There are a number of non-related and "sniping" comments typical of internet threads, but plowing through them al,l I thought, was worth it.<br>

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=96569.20</p>

 

<p>Thanks. I've examined the magazine for anything that looks like it might be off but I'll look specifically for the things you have mentioned. I'm out of town till Jan. 1 but will check it out as soon as I get back.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Sorry, I should have mentioned that I tried other cartridges in the case and they don't work. The problem is definitely limited to the case that you put the cartridge with film into. </p>

<p>In one particular film back, when I try to insert the cartridge with the film, the cartridge will not go all the way in and lock down. These are matched number components. <br>

I know it's not the cartridge because I put it in another non-number matching film back and it worked fine. <br>

I'm hoping there is a fix as simple as unlocking a lens.</p>

<p>If after what your read above you still want one, I have a 3.5F Model 1 that came with an original leather case. The case needs to be repaired as the seam on one side has separated and needs to be re-sewn. Drop me a PM if you are interested and I will respond with a photo.<br>

I was planning on selling the 3.5F, with case and other accessories after the holidays as I just bought the 2.8F version which also came with a case. Don't mind splitting the package up.</p>

<p>E. Short,<br>

I don't mind at all and actually appreciate it very much. I was following what I thought were the posting guidelines but obviously missed something. I'll get it right next time. If you or someone else has the ability to delete my earlier posts, please do so.</p>

<p>Bethesda Church Grounds<br>

Palm Beach, FL<br>

Hasselblad 203FE<br>

80mm <br>

TriX</p><div></div>

<p>This might be helpful: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/polarizers.shtml</p>

 

<p>I'm new to this as well, but shouldn't B&Ws be scanned with the 16 bit grayscale setting? I've also been told to use 2400dpi. But as I said, I'm just learning.</p>

<p>Thanks again! If you ever visit South Eastern Florida, please let me know.</p>

<p>Wow, thanks for the quick response.<br>

For clarification:<br>

How do I disable the shutter in the lens? I'm thinking locking the F mode, but I'd like to be sure. Once I've done this, I just set the aperture and meter will select the shutter speed up to 1/2000, correct? When would I use the shutter dial on the camera body?<br>

Sorry to be so dense, but the cost of buying and developing film makes me extra cautious.</p>

<p>I’m hoping someone will take pity and restate in really basic terms an issue that I know has been addressed many times.<br>

I have recently been give a 203FE and several lenses (FE, CFE, CFi). I’ve read the manual several times and have read several discussions on using the CFE and CFi lenses with the 203. I remain confused.<br>

My confusion starts with the Manual referring to a Green button. There is no Green button on any of the lenses I have. There is an Orange button that I can press and move an Orange F to the “common index” line. <br>

First question: Is the Orange button the same as the Green Button referred to in the Manual?<br>

Second question: Under what circumstances do I have to set the F mode lock for the CFE and CFi lenses? The manual indicates that there are some instances when it should be used a some when it shouldn't.<br>

Third question: I am unclear as to what circumstances require me to use the DOF Preview button after setting my desired shutter speed and aperture and before taking the picture. <br>

Fourth question: Can I use the CFE and CFi lenses as shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/2000 and (bonus question) how? <br>

Finally, if there is anyone who shoots with this equipment in South East Florida between Palm Beach and Miami, I'd sure be happy to meet with you for a hands on lesson.</p>