rjclarke

Ed- You can find a copy of the owners manual here

 

http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/645n.pdf

 

good luck

Hi Joseph- sorry for the delay in getting back with you. Your housing has the focus distance knob, right? On the camera, there is a ring that mounts around the lens. On 1 side of this ring is a fork. The pin on the inside of the focus knob has a pin that fits the fork. Mine has a flash with disposable flash bulbs

 

I bought the camera thinking I would take it to Mexico on vacation, but decided to leave it home. So I have never tried the camera underwater.

 

Good luck

Hi- If you remove the film, does the camera have power? With the film in the camera, does the led's in the viewfinder light up

 

I seem to recall a issue with the ASA setting. Is the ASA set to DX? Try changing to a specific film speed. If it is a ASA setting issue, there should be a red led blinking near the dial. But, this led might not be working.

 

with the battery cover off, and the batteries installed, you can check to see if power is getting to the camera using a multimeter. Check the voltage at the springs where the batteries connect to the camera.

 

good luck

Hi- you can download manuals here

 

http://www.pentax.com/docstore/index.cfm?show=6

Have you tried to clean the contact on the hot shoe? Does the flash sit tight on the shoe? Try moving the flash slightly on the shoe(front to back and side to side) to see if you get contact in another position. Have you tried another flash on this shoe? Might be worth a try. Removing the top is not that hard, get some good screwdrivers. If it is as simple as a bad solder connection under the hot shoe, this is an easy fix. Beyond that, may be too much to try and fix

Maybe the crack is allowing the battery to move away from the cover when it is attached, so it would not complete the curcuit. Have you considered epoxy or an adhesive?

Thanks for the response so far. I have a Mamiya RB67 ProS.

Hi- What is the difference in image quality between using a Mamiya

180mm f4.5 coated lens vs uncoated

 

thanks

Hi- I have a nikon FA parts camera I will sell you. Mirror is in great shape. contact me at rjclarke@ev1.net

I had a wein like that that did not work at all. I called wein, they skedme to return it, and sent me another

Hi- I made a similar bracket from aluminum flatbar, and a piece of aluminum angle. The base is made from an angle. In the center is a coupling nut, that is how it attached to a lightstand. (using a swivel flash mount/unbrella holder)

I bend some aluminum flatbar into a U shape and bolted this to the angle. I covered the inside of the U shape with self adhesive foamies (from Wal-Mart). The flash units (vivitar 285's) slide into the U shape on their side. I trigger the flashes into an umbrella with slaves.

This seems to work better than using the hot shoe, because the vivitar 285 is so top heavy.

Thanks for the answers. I did not think it needed batteries. I have included a picture of the flash unit. It takes AG-1b bulbs<div></div>

Hi- I recently aquired a Konica C35 with a underwater housing, and

flash for underwater use. Any idea where I might find information on

the housing? The flash unit uses bulbs, the purchase included about

100 bulbs.

I am wondering if these can be safely loaded into the flash unit

underwater

 

thanks in advance for your assistance

Hi- I have built something on a smaller scale. My light setup was for 3 lights, not nine. Mount the sockets on the wood, then you will need to wire all this together. You will need to figure out what size wire to use to carry the current. You will probably need to make a softbox around the wood , since I doubt you can make this work around an existing softbox. I would use the curly florescent type, with a 5500K light temp, this is close to daylight. They are low amp bulbs

 

Good Luck

Hi- I have a Yashica M5, and wanted some information (maybe a link to

a manual). I found the correct battery, and the camera seems to

respond to changes in light. The battery check light does not work

though. Any information would be appreciated.

 

thanks in advance

Hi- I just aquired a OM-10 with lens ($5.00) and the first curtain has

numerous white spots. These seem to be concentrated at the edges of

the curtain. The instruction manual does not mention this being

designed into the camera. Is this normal, or is something wrong with

the shutter curtain?

Camera seems to work great, I have not run film through to check the

meter accuracy, I was thinking of checking the meter readings against

my Nikon F5

 

thanks in advance

Thanks, after removing the lens, I was able to move the lever. I was playing with the shutter speeds, and from 1/8 down, they all sound the same, from 1/15 to 1/125 all sound the same, 1/250-1/500 sound about right, to fast to tell by ear Any ideas?

 

thanks

Hi- How does one change the aperture on a Mamiya C3 80mm lens?

 

thanks

Hi- I just got an Nikon F, with the Ftn finder. I have been able to

find instructions for the finder, but does anyone have a link to the

manual? What is your impression of this camera?

 

thanks in advance

Hi- I have several Pentax 645 film magazines, where the V shaped

spring steel in the center of the film magazine need to be replaced.

Has anyone replaced these? I cannot get a screwdriver inside to

remove the 2 screws holding this in the magazine. The problem is that

the tabs holding the rollers are broken off. Has anyone used this

film magazine without the rollers on the end.

 

Thanks in advance

I'm not positive on the K1000, but on most older cameras, part of the latch is screwed into either the door or the body. If that is true, you could peel back the leather, find the latch ,remove the screws, and open the door. Of course, you will then need to correct the problem

HI-YOU PULL UP ON THE FILM REWIND KNOB, AND THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN? FIRST, YOU CAN DOWNLOAD A MANUAL FOR FREE AT WWW.PENTAXUSA.COM

 

WHEN YOU PULL ON THE REWIND KNOB ALL THE WAY, DO YOU FEEL A SPRING FORCE? ASSUMING YOU FEEL THE SPRING, YOU CAN TRY PUSHING AGAINST THE DOOR RELEASE AS YOU PULL UP ON THE REWIND KNOB. IF THE PARTS ARE SLIGHTLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT, THIS SHOULD WORK

You might try going to www.pentaxusa.com and downloading a manual. sometimes a lens must be mounted or the film speed must be set. Maybe reading the manual will put you on the right track

Try hitting the base of the camera against the heel of your hand. This should work to drop the second curtain, and drop the mirror. As others have posted, may be time for a CLA. I have also tried using spray contact cleaner( safe for plastics) with a straw type attachment. When looking at the front of the camera, spray on the left side of the mirror. This sometimes will loosen gummed up parts. Probably won't be a permanet fix, as when it evaporates, the parts will still need cleaning.

Thanks, but that did not help. The shutter seems to be a curved piece of material (either plastic or light metal). The winding action must retract the shutter, while at the same time dropping the mirror. So, what resets the film advance after pushing the shutter release button?