roy_feldman

Please go to this site for one of the most complete reviews written.

It convinced me and I'm not

sorry :http://www.imx.nl/photosite/leica/leicahome.html

I have the Gradient Light book and did not find it worth it. The

author shows many examples of split grade printing and toning without

a good discription of how he got there. It seems to be based on

materials only available in the UK with no US equivlient. ( I don't

know where you are). If you don't have "The Print" from the A. Adams

series I would pick one up, buy lots of paper a set of filters and

play, it's not something that can be absorbed from a book. Look at a

lot of prints in a gallery (not in a book) and experiment until you

can match.If your local newspaper still does B&W call and ask if you

can watch the process (not a source of fine prints but at least a

foot in the door).

Like learning to drive a car, printing must be done not read about.

You are asking for the impossible. THE ABOVE ANSWER WILL NOT WORK BECAUSE THE LINE OF GRADATION CHANGES AS THE f-STOP CHANGES. wHEN A LENS IS OPEN ALL THE WAY IF YOU PLACE THE FILTER TO COVER THE TOP 30% AS YOU STOP DOWN THE LENS THIS PORTION MIGHT ONLY BE 10% BECAUSE OF THE SMALLER APETURE. tO USE A GRAD fILTER YOU MUST BE ABLE TO VIEW THE IMAGE STOPPED DOWN TO TELL EXACT PLACEMENT. oF COURSE YOU COULD SORT OF BRACKET AND HOPE YOU PLACE THE FILTER IN THE RIGHT SPOT.

I vote for the DLC also. With this camera it is not necessary to carry a heavy tripod and ball head. It locks as you wished for and is pretty no nonsense. I am currently hiking a lot with it and am using it on the small Gitzo Carbon, as long as I hang my camera bag to it it is a very steady and locked down platform. It is also a very cool looking insturment.

I recently got a used 210 Geronar 6.8 in good shape. What can you tell me about this lens? Why are they discontinued? What are it's strenghs/ weakness. (I.E. poor coverage, prone to flair?)

TTL Flash metering-Jeff

The current Leica M6 and M6hm are both non- TTL as of next week all Leica M's will be TTL. Since the HM was just introduced 6 months ago it should be a rarity. Reala 120 is not sold in the US if you are buying some it is either old or gray.

Had a sort of mini-demo with the Reps from Leica, Kodak Pro, Fuji and contax .today. Got to sort of look over the shoulder at a confidential memo (he was aware of it-just not officially). The TTL M6 Hm is $2295. They are not continuing the Non TTL cameras. The 90 M is Apo and Asph.

I whined to the Kodak rep about the loss of Ektar 25 and sapping the contrast out of the new PRN. He said not to complain until after Photokina(wink, wink).

I have been looking for a color print in 120 size and w/ the loss of reala and RG25, a hole developed for a fine grained saturated c-41 product available in 35 and 120 (sort of like to get one film and stick to it) Fuji Rep gave me a Superia 100 in 120 size supposedly a new formulation and told me to watch for NPC soon.

Contax sort of confirmed the 2 1/4 story.

.

I was at a Mamiya demo the other day where the factory rep offered to sell a M7 with lens for $1700. Kind of shoots down your ratio. The Japenese need Dollars and Mamiya seems to be giving out rebates upon rebates. After this latest drop of their economy I'd hold off for a month or two and see if prices don't drop further.

I love the DLC. To second the above answer if you do buy a wide lens the cost of a bag bellows is high and I'm sure it would weigh a pound.Ya, folding it up is not fun but I usually leave it assembled and carry it on a tripod over my shoulder. I used to own a Pentex 67 and this thing is a lot lighter.Also the fact you can talk to the guy who built the camera is kind of cool.

I enjoy my Cahnam DLC for its wide range of movement, bellows that will accomadate almost any lens, light weight and ruggedness. The next closest thing is a Linhof but I hear they're going out of business. Also, the fact that it is hand made by a guy you can actually talk to on the phone has a sort of charm.$2200 is not so charming but you get what you pay for.If your coming from Med Format this should'nt knock you over.

No need for circ. polorizer, I use a cokin set up and sing-ray filters on all my lenses. Slight vingetting w/ 45mm.

The majority opinion in the Med. Format Digest group is that the 55mm is the sharpest lens made for this system.

It is my understanding that Pentex will modify it's camera for astrop use by allowing very long exposures w/o drain on battery. Call them.

The web site at schneideroptics has the specs you need. I have taken boards to a machine shop, and let them measure the size needed.. although it was not a common size. I'm sure you can call 1-800-CALUMET and they will provide answers. IMYO unless you already have the boards why not buy them predrilled? All major makers sell boards for the shutters you named(even minor I have a Cahnam and was aable to get one "off the rack".)

Mr.Shaw has gone "above and beyond" by offering to snail mail the article mentioned in his response. Mr. Gibson your formula sounds great but having attended art school I'm afraid I don't have the where with all to figure it out.I know that in 35mm a COF of .03 is low end and .01 equals what film can be resolved at,I have no idea how or why this translates to 4x5.Is it possible,Mr. G. to give a example a art school grad can follow? ( I know I should have listened to Dad and taken some "real" classes, but that was 20 years ago).

Thanks for the response, I had no idea there were so many DOF scales out there but none really answer my question. Based on measurment of movement of lens standards ONLY is there a DOF scale out there? Mr. Grepstad's answer was overwhelming, could you narrow it down?

A while back I read a chart wich would give the correct F- stop setting based on near to far standards movement. In other words focusing on the nearest point then measuring the distance on the monorail to the farthest point entering that distance to a scale which would gine me the proper F stop. Since purchasing the Rodenstock Studio calculator I have learned that monorail angle and repro ratio are also factors. My problem is that the Rodenstock calculator is"based on a Circle of C.. of .03mm for 35mm.IYO is this sufficent for large enlargement? Are there other scales out there? I use 4X5

I recently got a s 90mm5.6XL I only intend to use it on a 4X5 for landscape work, do I need be concerened with a center filter.

Having it installed by Pentex is safe but time consuming. I have done it myself with no problems. Email me for instructions

I have just installed a viewfinder in a P67 under the watchful eyes of a 'official' repair person. Quite simple if you know the tricks anyone interested may e-mail me directly.

I work in a studio which photographs Cars on location. Several years ago we switched to Pentex because of reliability. Believe me with the rates we command, price is no object, we just got tired of fixing Swedish stuff and needed really tough cameras.

I have had one on order for two months. It runs $275USD. I bought it to use on my Leica and Contax. A much cheaper method is to look through a polarizer, check its orientation and install the filter in the same configuration.

GO to http://i31www.ira.uka.de/~klaus_s/depth.htm, to answer your DOF question.

Agfa makes a 50 speed super saturated that is currently the lowest speed film available for 120. I use it for landscapes with excellent results.